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SAN JUAN

CULTURE

Goats, horses and fire: the weird ways Spain celebrates San Juan

Nobody celebrates festivities with quite the same flair and diversity as Spain, and Saint John's Eve (June 23rd or 24th) is no exception.

Goats, horses and fire: the weird ways Spain celebrates San Juan
A horse rears in the crowd during the traditional San Juan (Saint John) festival in the town of Ciutadella, on the Balearic Island of Menorca. Photo: Jaime Reina/AFP

Saint John’s Eve or the feast of Saint John, known as El Día San Juan in Spain, is a celebration that usually involves elements of fire, dancing and some debatable treatment of animals.

In Spain Saint John’s Eve is either celebrated on June 23rd or 24th, but it falls close to the summer solstice on June 21st and bears some resemblance to Midsummer celebrations in Scandinavia and other northern countries.

In simple terms, Spain’s Día San Juan was born from the Christianisation of the pagan ritual of celebrating the summer solstice. 

Whether it be effigy burning, dousing each other with water, or touching the belly of a prancing stallion, midsummer revelries take place from coast to coast and are some of the most popular fiestas in all of Spain.

Townsfolk in coastal areas of Spain will head to the beach for a night of revelry around huge bonfires, with dancing, drinking and feasting often culminating in a midnight dip in the ocean.

There are however other San Juan celebrations that are even more bizarre, in some cases – as is often the case during Spanish festivals – with some questionable treatment towards animals.

Photo: José Jordan/AFP

In Alicante elaborate effigies are paraded through the town before being thrown into the flames while the streets pulsate with music, dancing and firecrackers, similar to Valencia’s festivities during Las Fallas

Photo: Jose Jordán/AFP

Menorca has a strange tradition which sees horses (and their riders) gallop, dance and prance through crowds while onlookers attempt to touch the equine’s belly, a feat that ensures good luck for the year.

Photo: Jaime Reina/AFP

In Catalonia, the Sant Joan parties are held on the night of June 23rd. The following day is also a public holiday, which residents usually need to recover from the night before. The firework explosions begin at least a week beforehand as everyone readies themselves for the big night. On the night itself, crowds gather on beaches to set off and watch spectacular firework displays, whilst eating coca (a local type of sweet bread) and drinking cava. 

Photo: JOSE LUIS ROCA / AFP

Revellers in Lanjarón, in the Alpujarras area south of Granada, choose to celebrate midsummer with an almighty water fight when residents use every receptacle at hand – hoses, buckets, water pistols – to drench each other. 

In the Pyrenean town of Isil near Lleida (Catalonia), residents mark Sant Joan by zigzagging from mountain top to town square carrying burning branches. After a huge bonfire, townsfolk dance until dawn.

In the Tenerife town of Puerto de la Cruz, goats take centre stage during the celebration of the Baño de las Cabras. Goat herders bring their herd to the beach and the bleating animals are (somewhat reluctantly) dunked into the sea. The event has its origins in an aboriginal ritual celebrated by the Guanches – the first Canary islanders – to mark the summer solstice.

 

Photo: Desiree Martín/AFP

In the Basque village of Bakio, evil spirits are banished by “Zanpanzar” who stomp to the rhythm of giant cowbells.

Photo: Rafa Rivas/AFP

While in San Pedro Manrique in Soria province (north-central Spain), the midsummer ritual involves men walking barefoot over hot coals without burning their feet… Oh, and with the added challenge (and weight) of carrying a woman on their back.

Wherever you are in Spain, Happy San Juan!

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CULTURE

Picasso Museum in Spain’s Málaga opens new exhibition

The Picasso Museum in Málaga, the southern Spanish city where the artist was born, will open a new exhibition on Tuesday which groups his works according to theme instead of by period.

Picasso Museum in Spain's Málaga opens new exhibition

The show – which runs until March 2027 – brings together 141 Pablo Picasso works that the artist kept for himself, including 10 which were never before seen in Spain.

“We have not followed chronology strictly. We do begin with the very early work of Picasso and we end with the last work that he created but within that we often are combining works from different decades,” said the curator of the exhibition, Michael FitzGerald, a professor of art history at Trinity College in the United States.

“It is a group of works, paintings, sculptures, drawings, prints that represents the entire production of Picasso I hope very accurately. and we particularly emphasised ceramics among them which is a part of Picasso’s work that is often not shown and not perhaps taken as seriously as it should.”

A woman looks at an oil and charcoal painting entitled ‘Woman with Arms Crossed’ (Paris, 1919-1920) during the official unveiling of ‘Pablo Picasso: structures of invention, the unity of a life’s work’ exhibition. (Photo by CRISTINA QUICLER / AFP) 
 

Museums have traditionally displayed works by Picasso grouped according to his key periods, from blue, pink and cubist to surrealist.

Picasso’s great-grandson, Bernard Ruiz-Picasso, said combining works of distinct periods and techniques “allow us to link different moments of his life”.

Among the works never exhibited before in Spain is a 1922 painting called “Paul” which depicts the artist’s son as well as the 1933 sculpture “Femme accoudée” (1933) and a dish decorated with a bull’s head from the 1950s.

Opened in 2003 in a 16th century mansion, Málaga’s Picasso Museum is located just a couple of hundred metres (yards) from the house where the artist was born in 1881.

Picasso left for Paris in 1904 and most of his adult years were spent in France where he died in 1973. The Picasso Museum in the French capital houses the world’s biggest collection of the artist’s works.

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