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DISCOVER SPAIN

11 brilliant day trips from Madrid

Looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of the Spanish capital? These 11 nearby destinations offer everything from history to gastronomy and nature, as well as being reachable on public transport from Madrid.

11 brilliant day trips from Madrid
The white mills of Consuegra will transport you to the pages of Cervantes' Don Quijote. Photo: Sebastián Godoy/Pexels

El Escorial 

Just an hour away from Madrid is the town of San Lorenzo de El Escorial, dominated by the vast palace-monastery built by Philip II. 

Declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco, El Escorial (pictured below) is one of Spain’s most beautiful Renaissance monuments and contains a wealth of artworks and the royal pantheon of tombs of Spanish monarchs.

The town is only an hour northwest of Madrid, easily accessible by the Cercanías train from Madrid’s Atocha station.

Photo: Luis Ribeiro/Pexels
 

Valley of the Fallen

A short drive away from El Escorial is the imposing and controversial monument of General Francisco Franco, The Valle de los Caídos (Valley of the Fallen). The basilica hewn out of living rock by political prisoners of the dictatorship once contained the tomb of El Caudillo along with 40,000 people who died during the Spanish Civil War.

The site is marked by a giant memorial cross, visible for miles around but don’t expect to be informed about the Spanish Civil War or subsequent 36 year-old fascist dictatorship as no mention is made of its dark history.

Photo: Esteban Palacios Blanco/Unsplash
 

Toledo

The charm of Toledo’s antiquated feel coupled with its winding cobblestone streets draws many visitors. Also a World Heritage Site, the city is a gorgeous medley of Christian, Muslim, and Jewish architecture.

Must-see sights include: The Castle of San Servando, the Alcázar fortress, El Greco Museum, the synagogues of El Transito and Santa María La Blanca, the Tornerías Mosque, the Roman Alcántara Bridge, and the Cathedral of Saint Mary. Aside from these, a relaxed stroll through Toledo’s streets is a must to truly appreciate its charm.

It is also famed for its regional cuisine. Toledo is only a 33-minute ride on the high-speed AVE train from Madrid’s Puerta de Atocha station. Tickets are as little as €13,90 and can be bought on the Renfe website.

Photo: Emmanuel Acua/Unsplash
 

Segovia

Segovia is another picturesque city appealing for its medieval charm. Like Toledo, a wander through its beautiful little alleyways, especially the Jewish Quarter, is an absolute must; so is a visit to the Plaza Mayor, the Alcázar, Segovia Cathedral, and the magnificent Roman Aqueduct dating back to the first century.

Don’t miss its fairytale castle, rumoured to be the inspiration behind Disney’s Cinderella’s castle. And no visit to Segovia would be complete without a taste of its famous roasted suckling pig. 

Segovia is 30 minutes by the high-speed AVE train from Madrid’s Chamartín station.

Photo: Vicente Jesús Díaz/Pexels
 

Ávila

Ávila boasts an extensive collection of Romanesque and Gothic churches, as well as impressively intact medieval-era walls encircling the city’s interior. The Gothic Cathedral and the Basílica de San Vicente are other popular attractions. Lose yourself wandering through the narrow alleyways discovering little plazas.

Ávila is a 1.5-hour ride on the high-speed AVE train from Madrid’s Chamartín station.

Photo: Mario La Pergola/Unsplash
 
 

La Sierra de Guadarrama

This mountain range features stunning scenery, diverse flora and fauna, and numerous hiking trails. Situated between Ávila and Segovia, its hillsides include the Peñalara National Park, and the rock formations along the Manzanares River known as La Pedriza. The sierra is also a prime location for mountain sports, from ski-ing or snowshoeing in the winter to mountain biking and rock climbing.

The journey from Madrid to the Peñalara National Park involves two Cercanías trains. First, take the Cercanías to Cercedilla from Madrid’s Chamartín station (the ride is an hour and 20 minutes). Then take a 40-minute train from Cercedilla to Cotos, where one of the park’s three offices is located.

Photo: Gervasio Ruiz/Pixabay

Cuenca

This fortress town has an old-fashioned appeal similar to some of the other places on the list, but it offers you a sight you won’t find just anywhere – the Hanging Houses perched atop the deep gorges of the Júcar and Huécar rivers. Cuenca also has a multicultural assortment of religious architecture, notably El Castillo (an Arab fortress) and the Cuenca Cathedral.

The high-speed AVE train takes 50 minutes from Madrid’s Atocha station to Cuenca.

Photo: Anastasia Borisova/Pixabay
 

Aranjuez

Another World Heritage Site, the beautiful town of Aranjuez served as a summer palace and hunting grounds for Royals of days gone by.  Its majestic architecture rivals that of the Royal Palace in Madrid and its magnificent gardens sprawling across 750 acres are worthy of an afternoon of exploration.

Aranjuez is a 45-minute train ride on the Cercanías via Madrid’s Atocha station but for a truly authentic experience then take the Strawberry Train, made up of restored wooden carriages from the early 20th century. During the hour-long journey, you can sample delicious strawberries grown in Aranjuez itself.

Photo: Manuel Torres Garcia/Pixabay

Chinchón

Chinchón is yet another addition to the towns on this list that you can’t miss simply for its charm. On your day here, visit the emblematic Plaza Mayor, famous for its irregular shape formed by medieval balconied houses.

Admire the view from the old clock tower, and buy titbits from its little artisan shops. It’s full of quirky events too, like the anisette liquor festival in spring and the garlic festival in autumn.

Chinchón is barely 45 minutes from Madrid by bus.

Photo: Ramon Perucho/Pixabay
 

Alcalá de Henares

The cobbled streets give this city, along the river Henares, east of Madrid, a well-preserved medieval charm. The Gothic Cathedral and the Universidad Complutense – one of the world’s oldest universities – are popular attractions, along with a recently excavated site with a Roman basilica and public baths.

The Jewish, Moorish, and Christian quarters offer a delightful blend of architecture from different cultures.

The city is famed for being the birthplace of Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote.

Alcalá de Henares is 40 minutes from Madrid’s Atocha station on the Cercanías train.

Photo: Mehmet A./Pixabay
 

Consuegra

If you’re a big fan of Cervantes’ work, head over to Consuegra next. The town has been famous since the 16th century for its windmills – the setting of a famous scene from Don Quixote where the knight errant battle with the sails he mistook for giants. Other sights include the Castle of Consuegra and the Renaissance-style town hall. 

Buses from Madrid to Consuegra make the trip in about two and a half hours, by car the trip is one hour and a half.

Photo: Jesus Díaz/Pexels

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DISCOVER SPAIN

A history of Madrid’s Barrio de las Letras in seven places

To mark World Book Day, Madrid-based Felicity Hughes takes us on a fascinating journey through the Spanish capital's Literary District, retracing the steps of Hemingway, Cervantes, Dumas and other iconic writers who stayed in this barrio.

A history of Madrid's Barrio de las Letras in seven places

World Book Day on April 23rd marks the date of Cervantes’ death. The author of Don Quijote lived in the Huertas neighbourhood of Madrid when he published his classic, starting a literary tradition in the area that continues to this day. Also known as Barrio de las Letras, Huertas is Madrid’s equivalent to Bloomsbury.

In my new book, A Guide to Madrid’s Literary District, I explore this heritage in-depth. To celebrate the launch of this guide and to get you prepped for World Book Day, here’s a quick history of the neighbourhood told through seven places.

Teatro Español

While the current neo-classical building was constructed in 1849, Teatro Español traces its history back to 1583. Madrid’s first theatre, Corral del Príncipe was built here 16 years before London’s Globe. As in Shakespeare’s London, the theatre was extremely popular but up until this point, Madrid did not have a dedicated venue. Instead, plays were performed in the courtyards of buildings. In the Corral del Príncipe, lower-class spectators stood in a square courtyard to watch actors perform on stage, while wealthier citizens were up in balconies overlooking the action.

Comic farces involving scandalous plots in which lovers switched partners several times were particularly popular. A writer who excelled at this style of drama was Félix Lope de Vega, Shakespeare’s contemporary and one of the Siglo de Oro’s most famous figures. To this day, you can see his name etched into the facade of Teatro Español, alongside other great writers of the time.

Madrid's Teatro Español

Madrid’s Teatro Español. Photo: Felicity Hugues

Casa Museo Lope de Vega

Lope de Vega didn’t have far to walk to see his words come to life on stage. His house is just a few minutes walk away at number 11 Calle de Cervantes. Now open to the public, you can still wander into the museum’s pretty garden whenever you fancy. Better yet, book yourself in for a free guided tour and you can see the house and hear all about his exciting and slightly disreputable life. A hit with the ladies, the playwright was a prodigious talent and penned around 500 plays during his lifetime. This prompted Cervantes to call him a “monstruo de la naturaleza” (a freak of nature) in his Eight Comedies and Interludes.

Casa de Lope de Vega by Felicity Hughes

Lope de Vega’s house in Madrid. Photo: Felicity Hugues

Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas

Miguel de Cervantes’ bones lie just one street away in the Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas at number 18 Calle Lope de Vega. Someone in town planning must have been having a laugh at the expense of both writers when these streets were named! Cervantes’ freak-of-nature taunt came after Lope de Vega had trashed an advance copy of Don Quijote in a letter announcing: “Of poets I do not say: this is a good century! Many are in the making for the coming year. But there is none so bad as Cervantes; nor so foolish as to praise Don Quijote.”

Lope de Vega, of course, was very wrong. Don Quijote was a smash hit when it came out in 1605 and even though Cervantes was pushing 60 when he published his masterpiece, he did get to enjoy his final years in the spotlight. However, this fame didn’t prevent the destruction of his former house at number 2 Calle de Cervantes nor the misplacement of his bones, which are muddled up with other miscellaneous skeletons in a box inside the convent with the initials MC on it!

Madrid's Convento de las Trinitarias

Madrid’s Convento de las Trinitarias. Photo: John Dapolito

Lhardy

As Madrid’s theatre district, Huertas was a thoroughly disreputable place back in Cervantes’ time and a popular saying went: “Calle de Huertas, más putas que puertas” (Calle de Huertas, more whores than doors). However, in the 19th century, this didn’t deter French chef Emilio Huguenin from opening an upmarket restaurant in the area closer to Sol in 1839. A fan of fine dining, Alexandre Dumas famously dined here when he rolled into town.

However, the restaurant wasn’t affordable for many. In fact, Lhardy was considered so posh that Spain’s answer to Dickens, Benito Pérez Galdós declared that they even “put white ties on their Tahona buns.” It’s still going strong and is a great place to soak up the atmosphere of 19th-century Madrid where heated literary salons or tertulias (social gatherings) were often held in coffee shops and restaurants.

Lhardy madrid

Lhardy in Madrid’s Barrio de Las Letras. Photo: John Dapolito

Ateneo de Madrid

The best tertulias were hosted in Ateneo de Madrid, a deceptively slender building tucked away on Calle del Prado. This cultural institution had a rocky beginning during the tyrannical reign of Ferdinand VII when many of its liberal members had to flee to London. However, it was re-established in 1835 after the king died and has been going strong ever since.

The organisation aimed to promote enlightened values that would modernise Spain by fostering scholarship and lively debate and it continues to stick to this philosophy to this day. While it’s still a private member’s club, the spectacular interior of this tardis-like building can be seen by either booking a visit to the library or attending a talk in the gorgeous Salón de Actos.

Madrid’s Ateneo. Photo: John Dapolito

La Venencia

The rumour exchange during the Civil War, this bar has changed little since it was first opened in 1927. The décor, with its wooden tables and gleaming rows of bottles, is simplicity itself. To this day, music is never played, nothing but sherry is served and photos are strictly forbidden, a policy that goes back to the Civil War when Madrid was full of Nationalist spies. Ernest Hemingway would drop in to pick up information during his time as a correspondent in the city. Of course, this wasn’t enough to slake his thirst: Chicote’s on Gran Via was a firm favourite as was Villa Rosa and Cevecería Alemana, both on Plaza Santa Ana.

La Venencia. Photo: Felicity Hughes

Las Cuevas de Sésamo

Another Hemingway haunt in Barrio de las Letras was Las Cuevas de Sésamo. This underground cave was opened up after the war as a clandestine literary salon by former Republican aviator Tomás Cruz Díaz. One of the main attractions of this bar was its literary prize. Tomás launched the Sésamo Prize for theatrical works in 1952 and the scheme was such a success that a short story and painting prize was added, followed in 1956 by an award for novelists. Though the prize money was negligible, the cultural cachet for winners was huge, with many authors going on to forge illustrious careers. These included Soledad Puértolas, Juan Marsé, and Juan José Millás.

Las Cuevas de Sésamo in Madrid. Photo: Sergio de Isidro

Of course, there’s much more to discover about the history of Barrio de las Letras. If you’re interested in the subject, my book A Guide to Madrid’s Literary District from The Secret Kingdoms Press is out now. 

Felicity Hughes is the author of The Making of Madrid, a blog about the history of Madrid.

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