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PASTA

How to make the classic pasta alla puttanesca

Quick and easy to make, this flavourful pasta sauce with unconventional origins is a staple in Italian kitchens everywhere. Food writer Silvana Lanzetta explains how to get it right.

How to make the classic pasta alla puttanesca
Pasta alla puttanesca can be made with or without anchovies. Photo: Depositphotos

Puttanesca sauce is one of the pillars of traditional Italian cuisine, with two cities that claim to be its birthplace: Rome and Naples. The difference between the two recipes is that the Roman version contains anchovies, whereas in Naples we don’t use them. We just call it pasta aulive e cchjapparielle, which is Neapolitan for olives and capers.

With or without anchovies, puttanesca sauce is very simple to make and extremely tasty. The main ingredients are garlic,olives (Gaeta or any juicy black olives, such as Kalamata), capers, chilli, and tomato sauce.

The origins of the recipe date back to the XIX century, and the name indicates that it was first created in a red light district to feed the workers and their customers.

In his book “Naples at the table”, the food critic Arthur Schwartz tells us that the origins of the puttanesca sauce are to be located at the beginning of the XX century in Naples, in the Spanish Quarter, where there used to be a certain number of “pleasure houses.”

Despite its unconventional origins, puttanesca sauce is a staple at all Italian tables, and for a very good reason: it’s easy and quick to make, and it tastes delicious.

It doesn’t matter whether you prefer the Roman version with anchovies or the vegan Neapolitan version (I prefer it with anchovies, and I am Neapolitan!), just try it and I am sure it will very soon become one of your favourite family dinners.

Ingredients

  • 360cgr of spaghetti, bucatini, or penne

  • 1 can of chopped tomatoes

  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

  • 100 gr of black olives (Gaeta or Kalamata)

  • 50 gr of capers

  • 4 anchovy fillets (optional)

  • 2 tbsp of extra-virgin olive oil

  • 1 tiny pinch of crushed chilli

  • Salt to taste

 

You'll need a deep non-stick frying pan for this recipe. Photo: Depositphotos

Instructions:

Step 1

To make a delicious puttanesca sauce, start by slowly heating the oil, the crushed garlic and the chilli in a deep non-stick pan. After about five minutes add the anchovy fillets, if using, and cook until they melt.

Step 2

Stir in the capers and olives, and cook on medium heat for another five minutes, stirring occasionally.

Step 3

Add the canned tomato, raise the heat and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat as soon as the sauce starts to bubble, and simmer it for 10-15 minutes. Salt to taste.

Step 4

Meanwhile, in a large pot, bring salted water to the boil. Cook the pasta of your choice according to the pack instructions. When cooked, before draining it, save a ladleful of the pasta cooking water.

Step 5

Drain the pasta and tip it in the pot with the sauce. Add the ladleful of cooking water, and sauté for a couple of minutes, until the water has evaporated. Serve immediately.

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Recipe tips:

Traditionally puttanesca sauce is served without grated cheese, as the strong flavours of the capers and olives clash with it.

To make your sauce even tastier, start to flavour the oil a couple of hours before serving the pasta. Follow the recipe until step 2, then take the pan off the heat, cover, and set aside. By allowing it to rest for a couple of hours, the oil will absorb all the flavours from the garlic, anchovies, and capers, resulting in an amazingly flavourful sauce.

 


Silvana Lanzetta. Photo: Private

Silvana Lanzetta was born into a family of pasta makers from Naples and spent 17 years as a part-time apprentice in her grandmother’s pasta factory. She specializes in making pasta entirely by hand and runs regular classes and workshops in London.

Find out more at her website, Pastartist.com, including this recipe and others.

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FEATURE

Italian recipe of the week: The perfect spaghetti carbonara

It has just three ingredients, but a lot of bite: artisan pasta maker Silvana Lanzetta shares her recipe for the perfect carbonara sauce.

Italian recipe of the week: The perfect spaghetti carbonara
An authentic carbonara sauce has only three ingredients. Photo: Flickr/Wine Dharma

Pasta alla carbonara (literally translated as 'coal workers’ pasta') is one of the most well-known and loved Italian delicacies: the creaminess of the eggs contrasting with the crispy guanciale makes it a pleasure to eat.

The origins of carbonara sauce are still uncertain. However, the recipe doesn’t appear until 1944, which prompts some speculations on how this delicious recipe came to be.

READ ALSO: The original recipe for authentic bolognese sauce

The most widely recognized theory is that this beloved Italian dish is an American adaptation of the traditional cacio e ova: when the Allied troops were stationed in Italy toward the end of World War Two, they got fond of pasta cacio e pepe, but to give them a “back home” flavour, they added smoked bacon to the recipe.

Roman people enthusiastically adopted the new dish, and quickly added it to their cooking.

They swapped the bacon for guanciale (the fat from a pig’s cheek) as they already had pasta recipes using guanciale and Pecorino cheese, the other two being pasta alla gricia and bucatini all’amatriciana.

Tips

Don't use Parmesan cheese for this recipe. However, if you're having difficulties finding guanciale, pancetta can be used instead.

Never add cream to the recipe: the creaminess is given by the sheer amount of grated Pecorino – so don't skimp on it! 

READ ALSO: Silvana's ten golden rules for cooking pasta like the Italians

Ingredients

  • 360 g spaghetti
  • 120 g guanciale
  • 4 eggs yolks
  • 1 whole egg
  • 150 g Pecorino Romano cheese
  • salt and pepper to taste

Method

Step 1:
In a non-stick pan, fry the guanciale in its own fat until slightly crispy, taking care not to brown it too much.

Step 2:
In a large bowl, beat the egg yolks and the whole egg with salt and pepper. Stir in the grated cheese until a thick cream is obtained. Add the cooked guanciale and reserve.

Step 3:
Cook the spaghetti al dente. Reserve about 100 ml of the cooking water. Drain the pasta well, and immediately pour the pasta into the bowl with the eggs. The heat of the pasta will cook the egg.

Step 4:
Add a little bit of the reserved cooking water, and mix well so as to coat all the pasta. If the sauce is still too dense, add some more cooking water. If too runny, stir in more cheese.

Step 5:
If necessary, season with more salt and pepper. Serve immediately sprinkled with extra grated Pecorino cheese.


Silvana Lanzetta. Photo: Private

Silvana Lanzetta was born into a family of pasta makers from Naples and spent 17 years as a part-time apprentice in her grandmother’s pasta factory. She specializes in making pasta entirely by hand and runs regular classes and workshops in London.

Find out more at her website, Pastartist.com, including this recipe and others.

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