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PRESENTED BY DESTINATION UPPSALA

My Uppsala: ‘Experience a touch of Swedish Cambridge’

The Local took a trip to Uppsala to discover Sweden’s fourth-biggest city through the eyes of two of its international residents.

My Uppsala: ‘Experience a touch of Swedish Cambridge’
Photo: André Dutra in Augusta Janssons Karamelfabrik

André Dutra’s life has changed since moving from Brazil to Uppsala. He no longer works ten hour days or relies on a car to get around. Now he lives in a city that he can easily walk from one end to the other of with a pace of life that’s slower but far from dull.

“What I really like about Uppsala is that it’s a big city but it feels like a small college town. Even the very clichéd shopping street you have everywhere in Europe, here it’s quite cute!”

One of André’s favourite spots is just a few minute’s walk from Uppsala Central Station. Opposite the Linnaeus Museum, the former home of famed Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus, is Café Linné, a traditional Swedish cafe on the corner of Svartbäcksgatan.

Photo: André in Café Linné

“It feels very nice inside, you have this feeling that you’re in your grandma’s house,” André tells The Local, recommending that visitors settle into one of the cafe’s cosy corners with a cup of coffee and a traditional Swedish pastry or cake.

Just a short stroll from Café Linné is the University Park and home to six ancient rune stones. For André, who comes from Brasilia, a city founded in 1960, they’re one of the city’s most special features.

Photo: Rune stone in University Park, Uppsala

“The ones in the park come from the 11th century. They are quite beautiful, they’re pieces of art. They’re so ancient; this duality, in a modern, environmental city like Uppsala is really interesting.”

For a panoramic view of the city, André suggests wandering up to the viewpoint at nearby Uppsala Castle. 

“It’s not really about the castle,” he explains. “The view from the top of this hill is scenic and breathtaking. You see all different parts of the city. It’s just beautiful on a sunny day!”

Photo: Augusta Janssons Karamelfabrik

He recommends refueling with a cup of Joe from Arrenius and Company, “a tiny place with really impressive coffee,” or indulging with a decadent treat from Augusta Janssons Karamelfabrik, a Willy Wonka-esque chocolate shop where you can’t help but feel like a kid in a candy store.

Start planning your getaway in Uppsala

Wrap up the day, he suggests, with a meal at Hambergs fisk – “The seafood is amazing!” – before a night on the town with a pitstop at Shotluckan — a vegetarian restaurant by day, shot bar by night — or end it on a high note with some live music at Katalin And All That Jazz.

Photo: Shotluckan

‘I adore living in Uppsala’

Historian Arina Polyakova Franzén moved from Russia to Sweden in 2015. After a stint in Stockholm, she upped sticks for Uppsala and hasn’t looked back.

“I adore living in Uppsala. I find it a lot calmer and friendlier than Stockholm, where we lived for three years,” she told The Local.

The city’s rich past and strong academic profile holds an obvious allure for the history buff. Particularly Gamla Uppsala, a village just outside the city easily reached by bus, and home to one of Sweden’s most noteworthy museums, where visitors can experience one of Sweden’s oldest historic sites and take a virtual reality tour of Iron Age Uppsala.

“There’s a beautiful museum in the open air with replica houses like the ones people would have lived in the old days. If you go when it’s warm weather you can see the whole territory; in the winter, you just see the burial mounds. You don’t need a ticket, it’s free.”

Photo: Arina by the River Fyris

That’s not to say there isn’t plenty of history and culture to be found in central Uppsala. With a packed events calendar including Uppsala Reggae Festival in July, barely a weekend goes by that there isn’t something on in the city.

River Fyris, which passes through Uppsala, plays host to a number of events throughout the spring and summer. The highlight of the season is a ‘wacky races’-style rafting event which takes place every year on 30th April, a celebration known in Sweden as ‘Valborg’.

“They do a lot of interesting events involving the river,” says Arina. “As soon as it starts to get warm, people start taking out canoes. It’s very fun to see, you can sit in front of the cathedral with a cup of coffee or warm chocolate.”

Visit Uppsala: Click here to plan your trip

Arina — who holds a PhD in British monarchy — is partial to a cup of tea at Landings, a traditional Swedish cafe in Uppsala’s city centre. It’s a bonus, she adds, that she’s able to take her dog into the cafe with her.

Photo: Landings konditori

“It’s traditional and delicious! It’s very cosy to go in and chat with friends and have something sweet. I have a very cute little dog who I like to take along! It’s also one of the oldest bakeries in Uppsala, founded in 1887.”

She heartily encourages tourists to visit Uppsala, particularly those who want to experience Sweden outside of its slick capital.

“If people want to see the calmer Sweden, they definitely have to come to Uppsala and experience a touch of Swedish Cambridge.”

This article was produced by The Local Creative Studio and sponsored by Destination Uppsala.

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FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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