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Brexit could make Prosecco pricier for British buyers, Italian winemakers warn

If Britain leaves the EU on March 29th with a so-called hard Brexit, many supporters will likely be celebrating with Union Jack flags and countless bottles of Prosecco. But worried winemakers in Italy fear potential new trade tariffs would put a huge dent in a market which sees a whopping 120 million bottles of Prosecco exported to the UK each year.

Brexit could make Prosecco pricier for British buyers, Italian winemakers warn
The UK is Italy's biggest export market for Prosecco. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP

“There could be price rises,” said Mattia Mattiuzzo, vice-president of regional farmers' union Coldiretti. “Without a deal it will perhaps be difficult to find a placement for the product.”

READ ALSO: The ultimate no-deal Brexit checklist for Brits in Italy

The UK is the Italian fizz's top market. Brits guzzle down 35 percent of exports of the sparkling white wine, made in the Veneto region of north-eastern Italy with the DOC label, as well as the superior DOCG category.

But as it becomes increasingly clear that British Prime Minister Theresa May's withdrawal deal will not pass, the odds of a no-deal hard Brexit appear greater, along with all the trade uncertainty that would bring.

“It could create discontent among English consumers, as it could create economic difficulties for us to reach the English market,” said Mattiuzzo, while gently pruning his family's snaking, dark vines in preparation for this year's grapes.


Prosecco vineyards in Veneto. Photo: Miguel Medina/AFP

In 2016, then British foreign minister Boris Johnson caused a diplomatic spat with Italy after apparently suggesting it should back his version of a Brexit deal or face losing Prosecco sales. The threat was rebuffed by Italy's then economic development minister, Carlo Calenda, who said Britain could then miss out on “fish and chips” exports to the other 27 EU countries.

Italian producers say importers have been stockpiling Prosecco in the UK and in Ireland, where there may be a “backstop” entrance for their wine, amid fears of increased import duties and long queues of trucks at the UK border.

READ ALSO: How to future-proof your life in Italy post-Brexit

“This situation of uncertainty worries us, (but) we're confident that English citizens won't give up this pleasure,” said Innocente Nardi, head of the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG Prosecco consortium, standing among dramatic, vine-draped hillsides.

“The main producers are in talks with English importers to set up import places in Ireland for instance, or English-registered companies which can easily import wine,” said Nardi. “In the worst-case scenario, they should still be able to import,” he said in the dwindling grey of the northern Italian twilight.

And if UK-bound exports falter for whatever reason, there are always other markets, said Nardi. “At the moment we're expanding and being appreciated in a significant way in the United States, which is an enormous market in which we're investing, and Canada and Russia,” he said.


Photo: Miguel Medina/AFP

The wine is named after the nearby village of Prosecco, a Slovene word meaning 'path cut through the woods'. The grapes used to make the wine were also called Prosecco until growers had the name changed to Glera in 2009, so that they could protect their increasingly popular brand as a geographical location.

Although many winemakers are worried, some believe Prosecco sales can withstand Brexit — whatever the outcome.

READ ALSO: No-deal Brexit: Which EU member state is being the most generous to Britons?

“I'm very optimistic, I think little will change, because now the world is globalized,” said winemaker Angelo Facchin, surrounded by the vast silver tanks where the wine is fermented in San Polo di Piave.

“Prosecco is now part of English culture. As a result, it will be difficult for them to give up our Prosecco,” smiled Facchin, whose family has made wine since 1870. The wine is “not very alcoholic, or expensive, can be drunk at any occasion and be a replacement for beer,” Facchin added.


Inside Facchin's cellars in Veneto. Photo: Miguel Medina/AFP

Britain now accounts for 40 percent of Facchin's turnover, having expanded by 15 to 20 percent each of the last five years. His wine is drunk at St John's College, Cambridge University, he proudly says.

While some are optimistic, Stefano Zanette, head of the Prosecco DOC consortium, said a hard Brexit would be a “leap into the unknown”. While not wanting to get involved in British politics, Zanette said he supported the idea of a second referendum in the UK on its relationship with the EU.

“Most people didn't realise the consequences of their choice,” he said.

READ ALSO: Made-in-Britain mozzarella on the rise as Brexit looms


Photo: Adrian Dennis/AFP

By AFP's Charles Onians and Céline Cornu

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FOOD AND DRINK

French and Italian wines set to lose out to British vineyards, claims study

English wines could benefit at the expense of French and Italian vines as climate change shifts the landscape in traditional wine growing, according to a new study published on Tuesday.

French and Italian wines set to lose out to British vineyards, claims study

Increased heatwaves and erratic rainfall could wipe out vineyards from Greece to California by 2100, researchers found – while creating optimal conditions for wine growing in the UK and other unlikely regions.

“Climate change is changing the geography of wine,” said Cornelis van Leeuwen, the lead author of the paper published in the journal Nature Reviews Earth and Environment.

“There will be winners and losers,” he told AFP.

Researchers compared existing but scattered data on the effects of rising heat and drought, as well as changes in pests and diseases, on global wine regions.

They found a “substantial” risk that 49 to 70 percent of these producing regions would become economically unviable, depending on the extent of global warming.

“You can still make wine almost anywhere (even in tropical climates)… but here we looked at quality wine at economically viable yields,” said van Leeuwen, a professor of viticulture at Bordeaux Sciences Agro.

Conversely, 11 to 25 percent of regions where vines are already planted could see production improve.

And completely new vineyards could emerge at higher latitudes and altitudes, researchers said – including southern regions of Great Britain where viticulture is in its infancy.

The extent to which global temperatures rise will make the difference.

If warming remains within two degrees Celsius of pre-industrial averages – a limit set by the 2015 Paris climate accord – most wine regions will survive, but need to adapt.

But under “far more severe warming scenarios, most Mediterranean regions might become climatically unsuitable for wine production”, the study found.

About 90 percent of winelands in coastal and lowland parts of Spain, Italy and Greece “could be at risk of disappearing by the end of the century.”

Southern California, where conditions are already warm and dry, could suffer the same fate with suitable areas for wine production declining by up to 50 percent.

But warmer conditions in America’s northern wine regions, from Washington State to the Great Lakes region, and even New England, could see the potential for premium wine production to flourish.

While “France is not the most exposed country”, van Leeuwen said, it like many other wine-growing regions will have to adapt by using more resilient grape varieties like Grenache for reds or Chenin for whites.

But he cautioned against turning to irrigation.

“Irrigated vines are more vulnerable to drought if there is a lack of water,” he said, adding it would be “madness” to direct such a scarce resource toward such hardy crops.

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