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SKIING

Where to ski and snowboard during Sweden’s ‘sportlov’ break

All across Sweden, skis and snowboards are getting waxed and edged in anticipation of the week-long break known as sportlov (winter sports holiday).

Where to ski and snowboard during Sweden's 'sportlov' break
Kids take ski lessons at Åre. Photo: Pontus Lundahl/TT

Depending on the municipality, the break comes between week 7 and 11 (February 13th-March 12th). While of course you don’t have to use the week to engage in sporty activities, as the name suggests winter sports indeed play a key component in most Swedes’ plans. 

With that in mind, let’s take a look at the best options for skiing during the holiday. 

For city folk

The first decision to make is how far you’re willing to travel to hit the slopes. The good news for city-dwellers who aren’t too keen on the idea of shoehorning their kids and equipment into the car for a multi-hour road trip is that Sweden has plenty of urban skiing options.

For those in the Stockholm area, downhill skiing is just a short bus or subway ride away at Hammarbybacken. There you can take in the unusual experience of downhill skiing while overlooking the busy city. It’s a good option for beginners trying to get into this whole sportlov thing, as equipment and lessons are both available on site (as is a cafe if you quickly find you’re not cut out for it). 

If you’re more of a cross-country skier (admittedly not for everyone), you can find Gärdet just east of the city centre. This easily-accessible spot (take the metro to Karlaplan and Gärdet, or the number four or number 54 bus) has two tracks – one easier, and one more advanced. Is night-time skiing your thing? Stockholm offers that too in Stadion, which becomes a floodlit ski track when there’s enough snow. It’s completely free to use and the grounds are open until 10pm on weekdays.

Gothenburg residents don’t have quite as many options in their backyard, but there are still some skiing spots that don’t require much travel. The Nordic Wellness Skidome has 1.2 kilometre long indoor tracks catering to different styles, as well as saunas and a relaxation area with a jacuzzi. If there’s been decent snowfall, you can take it outside to Delsjö Golfbana, which becomes a skiing rather than golfing spot in the winter.

The cities of Lund, Uppsala, Umeå and Gävle all have local skiing options as well, the details of which you can find in our guide to urban skiing

Hit the road

If you’re after something bigger and better and don’t mind travelling for it, that’s when your options really open up. 

Just two hours from Stockholm you’ll find Kungsberget, which while certainly not the biggest resort in Sweden, offers 18 runs, 10 lifts, and 20 kilometres of cross-country paths without the full-blown road trip required to get to more remote locations. Other resorts that can be reached in less than three hours from the capital include Romme Alpin (33 runs, 13 lifts), the snowboarders’ favourite Bjursås (20 runs, 8 lifts) and the less-busy Säfsen (18 runs, 8 lifts).

Sweden’s largest and best-known ski resort is Åre. This perennial favourite for skiers in Sweden and beyond. It was named Sweden’s best ski resort 2022, according to World Ski Awards. It has seven different parks, 41 lifts and 89 runs. On top of that, it has an after-ski scene that caters to both hard partiers and families alike. 

Another of Sweden’s biggest and best resorts is Sälen, which is split into four distinct ski areas operated by Skistar that comprise a whopping 90 total lifts. The water park, cinema, dog sled tours and other non-ski options make this a popular choice for families. A new international airport was opened at the end of 2019, just 20 minutes away from the resort, so Sälen now attracts more skiers from abroad.

Also within Sälen are the independently-operated Kläppen and Stöten, the latter of which is arguably the nation’s most family-friendly ski resort and thus a natural choice for many during sportlov. 

Above the Arctic Circle, you can find Riksgränsen (29 runs 6 lifts), which claims to be Sweden’s northernmost ski area. This is a top choice among those who like to ski off-piste. Another popular spot in the vicinity is Björkliden (23 pistes, 5 lifts), which promises “Scandinavia’s most magnificent views”. 

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MALMÖ

Hip, swanky and relaxed: Five wine bars to try in Malmö

Malmö in southern Sweden may be more well known for cheap falafel than upmarket wine bars, but that doesn't mean there's nowhere in the city for you to enjoy a glass (or two...).

Hip, swanky and relaxed: Five wine bars to try in Malmö

Julie

This wine bar in the Gamla Väster neighbourhood – Malmö’s old town – specialises in natural wines, always offering at least 16 still wines, alongside other specialty wines like pet nats, champagne and sherry.

They offer wines by the bottle, with a smaller number of wines available by the glass, with seasonal alcohol-free options available. Food-wise, they do cheese and charcuterie alongside small plates based on locally produced ingredients – look out for their supper clubs with local chefs.

They don’t take reservations with exceptions for special events, like supper clubs, wine tastings or similar.

Although it has the feel of a specialty wine shop, Swedish alcohol laws mean that Julie can’t sell bottles for you to take home, so you’ll have to enjoy their wines on-site. Luckily, you can take home their cheeses and charcuterie.

Prices vary widely depending on the wine. Glasses start at around 65 kronor with food costing around 150-450 kronor.

Address: Tegelgårdsgatan 9

Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 4pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 11.30am-10pm

 
 
 
 
 
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Freja

Freja is a cafe and wine bar in the upmarket Davidshall neighbourhood just off the main shopping street. It opens at 9am (alcohol served from 11am), making it a great place for coffee and breakfast, lunch, or dinner and wine in the evening.

During the warmer months, they have an outdoor serving area on the Davidshall square.

They offer a handful of wines by the glass – reds, whites, orange and rosé, many of which are natural wines – with more on offer by the bottle. 

In terms of food, they do simple small plates, such as focaccia with burrata, mortadella and pistachio pesto, filled almond croissants or avocado toast with Danish Vesterhav cheese. Owner Agnes Hansson’s family own a farm around 40 kilometres east of Malmö in Skåne, where much of the cafe’s produce comes from.

Expect to pay between 80 and 160 kronor for a small plate, slightly less for snacks or desserts.

Address: Davidshallstorg 9

Opening hours: Tues 9am-4pm, Weds-Thurs 9am-9pm, Friday 9am-11pm, Saturday 9am-9pm, Sunday 9am-4pm

 
 
 
 
 
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Aster

This hip wine bar in Varvsstaden in Västra Hamnen may be more well known for its seasonal cocktails and natural wines – many of which are European – but it’s worth a trip for the food, too.

Aster won three awards at the Malmö Gastronomy Awards when it opened in 2021, and it’s easy to see why. There’s a wood-fired oven and grill in the open kitchen, with ingredients often sourced from the restaurant’s own garden.

The menu changes seasonally, and at the time of writing it included dishes such as smoked lamb ribs with kimchi and homegrown veg, grilled halibut with greens served with a white wine and crayfish sauce, as well as veggie dishes with grilled pumpkin, cannellini beans and oyster mushroom.

Expect to pay around 50-100 kronor for nibbles, 150-195 kronor for small dishes, 275-300 kronor for large plates (or 995 kronor for an 800g dry aged sirloin steak). Desserts 75-115 kronor.

Address: Jagaregatan 6

Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 5pm-11:30pm, Friday noon-midnight, Saturday 4pm-midnight

 
 
 
 
 
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Far i Hatten

This charming little restaurant in the middle of Folkets Park started life as a park restaurant with an outdoor dance floor in the late 1800s. 

It’s a strange place in some ways – it’s the perfect place to go for pizza and ice cream with children during the day, situated right next to a huge playground, but at night it transforms into a bustling bar and nightclub with a surprisingly long wine list.

Again, they have a long list of natural wines on offer, but there’s so much to choose from that you’re sure to find something you like no matter your tastes.

The dance floor is still very much in use, too – Far i Hatten hosts regular events and concerts, both for children during the day and for adults later on towards the evening.

Address: Folkets Park 2, Amiralsgatan 35

Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 5pm-11pm, Fri 4pm-1am, Sat noon-1am, Sun noon-8am

 
 
 
 
 
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MJ’s

MJ’s is technically a hotel (it was even crowned Sweden’s Leading Boutique Hotel for 2024), but they have a gorgeous covered indoor courtyard where you can enjoy brunch, lunch or dinner along with a glass of wine from their 11-page wine menu. 

This is sorted not only by type of wine (red, white, rosé, champagne, rosé champagne, cremant and pet nats), but also by country, with organic wines, natural wines, and skin contact wines all marked on the menu.

You can enjoy their wines alongside simple snacks – olives and almonds or a small cheese or charcuterie board – or larger dishes like beef tartare, asparagus with lumpfish roe or haddock sashimi. They also have a number of vegetarian options.

They also have a bar area (The Lobby Bar) which do cocktails and DJ sets on the weekend, and a speakeasy bar (Lillies) open on Friday and Saturday nights. 

Address: Mäster Johansgatan 13 (entrance to Lillies on Isak Slaktaregatan 5)

Opening hours: Restaurant: Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30am-1:30pm, Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm. Saturdays 1pm-10pm, Sundays noon-3pm. Lillies: Fri-Sat 8pm-1am

 
 
 
 
 
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