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SWEDISH FOOD

Weekend recipe: How to make Swedish rye cakes

Rye (or råg in Swedish) is a quite popular grain for making bread in Sweden – and probably most known through its use in Swedish crisp bread. It can be used for other sorts of bread too, for example rye cakes. Food writer John Duxbury shares his recipe with The Local.

Weekend recipe: How to make Swedish rye cakes
Rye cakes are perfect for open sandwiches (smörgåsar). Photo: John Duxbury/Swedish Food

Rye cakes (rågkakor) have a lovely flavour and are ideal for open sandwiches (smörgåsar). In Sweden they are normally made with a hole in the middle, although the hole is something of a mystery because, unlike knäckebröd, one usually doesn't hang up rye cakes.

Summary

Serves: 2 cakes

Level: Easy

Preparation: 15 minutes

Cooking: 15 minutes

Total: 30 minutes

Ingredients

180g wholemeal (dark) rye flour

150g strong white flour (bread flour)

5g salt

5g fennel seeds

7g (1 packet)  “instant” dried yeast

250g water*

10g mörk sirap (dark syrup)*

7g butter

milk, for brushing the cakes after baking

*For bread recipes we recommend measuring all quantities in grams.

Method

1. Add the flours, salt and seeds to the bowl of a stand-mixer and stir to mix.

2. Add the “instant” dried yeast and mix again.

3. Heat the water, mörk sirap and butter in a saucepan until the butter has just melted and the mixture is lukewarm (40ºC/104ºF). Pour over the other ingredients and stir thoroughly.

4. Knead on a low speed for 8 minutes (10 minutes if kneading by hand). Add more white bread flour if the dough seems too sticky and stop the machine every now and again to scrape down the sides if necessary.

5. Cover with a cloth and leave in a draught-free place for 10 minutes (there is no need for it to double in size).

6. Turn the dough onto a worksurface dusted with flour. Divide into two and shape each into a ball. Leave to rest again for 5 minutes.

7. Roll the balls into flat cakes about 15 cm (6”) in diameter. Cut a hole in the middle of each cake if desired.

8. Transfer to a baking sheet covered with baking parchment. Prick each cake with a fork each cake, cover with a cloth and leave to double in size.

9. Pre-heat the oven to 225ºC (425ºF, gas 7, fan 200ºC).

10. Bake in the middle of the oven for 12-15 minutes, until golden brown on the bottom and the middle of the cakes reaches 96ºC (205ºF).

11. Transfer to a cooling rack, brush with milk and leave to cool completely.

Tips

– Swedes use mörk sirap (dark syrup) which can be bought in specialist shops or online. If you can’t find mörk sirap use half a tablespoon of treacle or molasses and half a tablespoon of any light syrup instead.


– Try anise seeds or caraway seeds instead of fennel seeds for a slightly different flavour.
 

– I usually bake smaller 10 cm (4 in) rågkakor, which I find more convenient for smörgåsar (open sandwiches). Follow the recipe below, but divide the dough into just four pieces, roll each to about 10 cm (4 in) diameter and omit making a hole. One small rågkaka is sufficient for two smörgåsar.

Recipe courtesy of John Duxbury, Editor and Founder of Swedish Food

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FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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