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Brittany’s capital revives forgotten heritage: Italian mosaics

Italian mosaics, once all the rage in France, fell into neglect and ruin by the 1970s, when homeowners began covering them up with parquet floors or even linoleum.

Brittany's capital revives forgotten heritage: Italian mosaics
Photo: Damien Meyer/AFP

The legacy is one that the Brittany capital Rennes has set out to showcase — and with good reason, because the city boasts dozens of works by key purveyors of the craft — the Odorico brothers from Italy's northeastern
Friuli region.

Their mosaics can be spotted in 122 towns and cities across western France, but they are concentrated in Rennes, where the brothers settled in 1882.

Every summer, the city's tourism office puts on tours devoted to the work of two generations of Odoricos.

The tours, snubbed by the public during the 1990s, are now often sold out as interest in the neoclassical art has burgeoned.

An association of “Friends of Rennes Heritage” has identified at least 47 Odorico works in the city.

Tourist guide Therese Jannes says the brothers Isidore and Vincent Odorico emigrated to France for “economic reasons” before making it big in Rennes at the height of the Art Nouveau movement.

They started off in Paris, where they met their mentor Gian Domenico Facchina, also from Friuli, at work decorating the Palais Garnier, the Paris opera house completed in 1875 that would become an icon of the Second Empire style.

Facchina was the inventor of a revolutionary mosaic technique — the reverse, or indirect, method in which the mosaic is created in reverse on a temporary surface, then transferred to its permanent home.

The technique enabled mosaicists to work faster and more cheaply, making the art more accessible to private clients.

Venetian and Roman styles

The Odoricos left Paris, settling first in the central city of Tours before moving to Rennes.

At the time, the mosaic was enjoying a heydey in France, and the Odoricos positioned themselves as experts in the Venetian and Roman styles.

The two brothers rapidly built up their order book for both public and private projects.

In 1918, six years after Isidore died, his widow and their sons — also named Isidore and Vincent — created the company Odorico Brothers, opening branches in nearby Dinard but also just outside Brittany in Nantes and Angers.

By then, when Art Nouveau was giving way to Art Deco, the rapidly industrialising city of Rennes became one of France's leading producers of mosaics.

At the height of their success, the family employed up to 100 mosaic craftsmen.

Vincent handled the back office, while Isidore, who had studied at Paris's prestigious School of Fine Arts, created original Art Deco works that are “recognisable at a glance”, Jannes says.

A prominent example is the mosaic over the entrance to the city's former central market, now a contemporary art centre, with the name “municipal market” in geometrical blue letters against a green and yellow background featuring subtle gradations.

Another key stop on the tour is the Poirier building, which boasts an example of one of the younger Isidore's favourite techniques — that of contrasting matte and glossy tiles.

Shiny gold and silver tiles are set in circles against a nuanced grey, blue and smoky green background.

Mosaics cover the entire facade of the building — very avant-garde in its time.

Admiring the work, tourist Julie Garfield of California said: “I love the interplay between light and dark.”

'Unmistakable'

Maeva Urvoy, visiting from nearby Saint-Brieuc, remarked on the mosaics' harmony with the architecture, saying they “are perfectly aligned with the building's shapes and spaces.”

The final stop on the tour is the Saint-Georges municipal pool, a converted church where Isidore Odorico left his indelible mark.

Odorico Brothers shut down in 1979, more than three decades after Isidore's death.

Mosaics had long gone out of style, so much so that many works by Italian immigrants had fallen into neglect or were even destroyed.

“One day a lady found a mosaic at her home. An architect told her to remove it because it wasn't worth anything,” Jannes recalls — it turned out to be an Odorico.

But today “awareness of this heritage is really growing,” she says. “People find mosaics under their linoleum or the parquet. The works aren't necessarily signed but some characteristics are unmistakable.” 

By Laure Le Fur

ART

African-born director’s new vision for Berlin cultural magnet

One of the rare African-born figures to head a German cultural institution, Bonaventure Ndikung is aiming to highlight post-colonial multiculturalism at a Berlin arts centre with its roots in Western hegemony.

African-born director's new vision for Berlin cultural magnet

The “Haus der Kulturen der Welt” (House of World Cultures), or HKW, was built by the Americans in 1956 during the Cold War for propaganda purposes, at a time when Germany was still divided.

New director Ndikung said it had been located “strategically” so that people on the other side of the Berlin Wall, in the then-communist East, could see it.

This was “representing freedom” but “from the Western perspective”, the 46-year-old told AFP.

Now Ndikung, born in Cameroon before coming to study in Germany 26 years ago, wants to transform it into a place filled with “different cultures of the world”.

The centre, by the river Spree, is known locally as the “pregnant oyster” due to its sweeping, curved roof. It does not have its own collections but is home to exhibition rooms and a 1,000-seat auditorium.

It reopened in June after renovations, and Ndikung’s first project “Quilombismo” fits in with his aims of expanding the centre’s offerings.

The exhibition takes its name from the Brazilian term “Quilombo”, referring to the communities formed in the 17th century by African slaves, who fled to remote parts of the South American country.

Throughout the summer, there will also be performances, concerts, films, discussions and an exhibition of contemporary art from post-colonial societies across Africa, the Americas, Asia and Oceania.

‘Rethink the space’

“We have been trying to… rethink the space. We invited artists to paint walls… even the floor,” Ndikung said.

And part of the “Quilombismo” exhibition can be found glued to the floor -African braids laced together, a symbol of liberation for black people, which was created by Zimbabwean artist Nontsikelelo Mutiti.

According to Ndikung, African slaves on plantations sometimes plaited their hair in certain ways as a kind of coded message to those seeking to escape, showing them which direction to head.

READ ALSO: Germany hands back looted artefacts to Nigeria

His quest for aestheticism is reflected in his appearance: with a colourful suit and headgear, as well as huge rings on his fingers, he rarely goes unnoticed.

During his interview with AFP, Ndikung was wearing a green scarf and cap, a blue-ish jacket and big, sky-blue shoes.

With a doctorate in medical biology, he used to work as an engineer before devoting himself to art.

In 2010, he founded the Savvy Gallery in Berlin, bringing together art from the West and elsewhere, and in 2017 was one of the curators of Documenta, a prestigious contemporary art event in the German city of Kassel.

Convinced of the belief that history “has been written by a particular type of people, mostly white and men,” Ndikung has had all the rooms in the HKW renamed after women.

These are figures who have “done something important in the advancement of the world” but were “erased” from history, he added. Among them is Frenchwoman Paulette Nardal, born in Martinique in 1896.

She helped inspire the creation of the “negritude” movement, which aimed to develop black literary consciousness, and was the first black woman to study at the Sorbonne in Paris.

Reassessing history

Ndikung’s appointment at the HKW comes as awareness grows in Germany about its colonial past, which has long been overshadowed by the atrocities committed during the era of Adolf Hitler’s Nazis.

Berlin has in recent years started returning looted objects to African countries which it occupied in the early 20th century — Burundi, Rwanda, Tanzania, Namibia and Cameroon.

“It’s long overdue,” said Ndikung.

He was born in Cameroon’s capital, Yaounde, into an anglophone family.

The country is majority francophone but also home to an anglophone minority and has faced deadly unrest in English-speaking areas, where armed insurgents are fighting to establish an independent homeland.

One of his dreams is to open a museum in Cameroon “bringing together historical and contemporary objects” from different countries, he said.

He would love to locate it in Bamenda, the capital of Cameroon’s restive Northwest region.

“But there is a war in Bamenda, so I can’t,” he says.

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