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Welcome to Barga, the most Scottish town in Tuscany

This pretty town in the Tuscan hills is famous for music, architecture - and fish and chips. The town's strong Scottish connections go back to the turn of the last century.

Welcome to Barga, the most Scottish town in Tuscany
The historic centre of Barga, Tuscany. Photo: Clare Speak/The Local

High in the Tuscan hills, surrounded by lush forest and looking out over the valleys of the Apuan Alps, sits the beautiful 10th-century walled town of Barga.

At first glance, its winding cobbled streets and red-roofed villas give Barga the appearance of many other picture-perfect hilltop towns in northern Tuscany. But if you spend a bit of time here you’ll soon realise that this is a town unlike any other.

Barga quite literally has a strong Scottish accent. And for three weeks in summer, this time from July 27th to August 16th, the town hosts a festival dedicated to its favourite dish – fish and chips.

Fish and chips at the festival in Barga, Tuscany. Photo: Clare Speak/The Local

Every evening at the Sagra del pesce e patate, billed as a celebration of “traditional Scottish fish’n’chips”, around 300 people enjoy a fish supper at trestle tables set up on the local sports field.

The festival has now been going for 37 years. Organisers told The Local that hungry visitors get through about a tonne of chips and even more fish every year.

For anyone not tempted by fried fish, there’s also pasta and grilled meat on the menu. And there are typical Italian desserts, plus coffee, and beer – though some locals prefer a glass of Chianti with their deep-fried dinner.

Italian chefs preparing fish and chips at the festival in Barga, Tuscany. Photo: Clare Speak/The Local

READ ALSO: Nine delicious Italian summer delicacies you have to taste

The fresh cod is fried in home-made beer batter in a makeshift kitchen set up inside the sports stadium. While the chips are sadly of the frozen variety, and there are no mushy peas, they do provide malt vinegar and there’s hopeful talk of adding pickled onions next year.

It definitely makes a change from the usual offerings at sagre, or food festivals, held in countless towns and villages all over Tuscany.

But Scottishness among the town’s 10,000 inhabitants runs far deeper than just an affinity for battered cod – or the fact that the surrounding hills and mountains are curiously reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands.

Barga prides itself on being “the most Scottish place in Italy”. It‘s twinned with East Lothian and Italians here speak English – and in some cases, also Italian – with an accent you’d normally expect to hear on the west coast of Scotland. In fact, many of the town’s residents say they, or their parents, were born and raised in the Glasgow area.

People enjoying fish and chips at the festival. Photo: Clare Speak/The Local

Many say the connection goes back to the turn of the 19th century, when large numbers of people struggling to find work in Tuscany decided to emigrate.

One story goes that a group of local forestry workers were hired by the visiting Duke of Argyll to work on his Scottish estates. They took their families with them, and more followed. Some eventually opened Italian-style ice cream parlours, as well as fish and chip shops.

Eventually, many of these Scots-Italians made return trips to Barga and nearby, and some stayed, cementing the connection and bringing a little taste of Scotland to Tuscany.

READ ALSO: Why Arezzo should be the next town you visit in Tuscany

The town regularly hosts Scottish weddings complete with kilts and bagpipies, and a new event taking place in September honours the closeness of the two communities.

Barga’s Scottish Week is set to take over the historic centre from September 3-9 with music, markets and cultural events.

A view of the mountains from outside Barga’s cathedral. Photo: Clare Speak/The Local

The town hosts various other food festivals, and a well-known jazz festival in mid-August. There’s also an antiques fair on the second Sunday of every month, when the pretty historic centre is filled with stalls, piled high with vintage furniture and knick-knacks.

Whenever you visit, Barga is a gorgeous Tuscan town with sights including a Romanesque cathedral dating from the 11th century, and Barga Castle, perched dramatically upon a ridge.

Its historic centre has panoramic views of the dramatic, mountainous landscape, especially from the gardens known as the ‘Arringo’, found next to the cathedral.

READ ALSO: The Tuscan festival that celebrates vintage cycling and wine

Barga is not the only town in Italy to have a strong link to Scotland. Gurro, a small village in the Italian Alps, was populated by Scottish soldiers 500 years ago, who made a mark on the local culture that still endures today.

TRAVEL NEWS

German train strike wave to end following new labour agreement

Germany's Deutsche Bahn rail operator and the GDL train drivers' union have reached a deal in a wage dispute that has caused months of crippling strikes in the country, the union said.

German train strike wave to end following new labour agreement

“The German Train Drivers’ Union (GDL) and Deutsche Bahn have reached a wage agreement,” GDL said in a statement.

Further details will be announced in a press conference on Tuesday, the union said. A spokesman for Deutsche Bahn also confirmed that an agreement had been reached.

Train drivers have walked out six times since November, causing disruption for huge numbers of passengers.

The strikes have often lasted for several days and have also caused disruption to freight traffic, with the most recent walkout in mid-March.

In late January, rail traffic was paralysed for five days on the national network in one of the longest strikes in Deutsche Bahn’s history.

READ ALSO: Why are German train drivers launching more strike action?

Europe’s largest economy has faced industrial action for months as workers and management across multiple sectors wrestle over terms amid high inflation and weak business activity.

The strikes have exacerbated an already gloomy economic picture, with the German economy shrinking 0.3 percent across the whole of last year.

What we know about the new offer so far

Through the new agreement, there will be optional reduction of a work week to 36 hours at the start of 2027, 35.5 hours from 2028 and then 35 hours from 2029. For the last three stages, employees must notify their employer themselves if they wish to take advantage of the reduction steps.

However, they can also opt to work the same or more hours – up to 40 hours per week are possible in under the new “optional model”.

“One thing is clear: if you work more, you get more money,” said Deutsche Bahn spokesperson Martin Seiler. Accordingly, employees will receive 2.7 percent more pay for each additional or unchanged working hour.

According to Deutsche Bahn, other parts of the agreement included a pay increase of 420 per month in two stages, a tax and duty-free inflation adjustment bonus of 2,850 and a term of 26 months.

Growing pressure

Last year’s walkouts cost Deutsche Bahn some 200 million, according to estimates by the operator, which overall recorded a net loss for 2023 of 2.35 billion.

Germany has historically been among the countries in Europe where workers went on strike the least.

But since the end of 2022, the country has seen growing labour unrest, while real wages have fallen by four percent since the start of the war in Ukraine.

German airline Lufthansa is also locked in wage disputes with ground staff and cabin crew.

Several strikes have severely disrupted the group’s business in recent weeks and will weigh on first-quarter results, according to the group’s management.

Airport security staff have also staged several walkouts since January.

Some politicians have called for Germany to put in place rules to restrict critical infrastructure like rail transport from industrial action.

But Chancellor Olaf Scholz has rejected the calls, arguing that “the right to strike is written in the constitution… and that is a democratic right for which unions and workers have fought”.

The strikes have piled growing pressure on the coalition government between Scholz’s Social Democrats, the Greens and the pro-business FDP, which has scored dismally in recent opinion polls.

The far-right AfD has been enjoying a boost in popularity amid the unrest with elections in three key former East German states due to take place later this year.

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