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MUSIC

‘It’s incredible to lead an orchestra in Italy, the place where music was born’

"There's a huge passion to make music in Italy, which makes it a great place to work and spend time," says conductor Alpesh Chauhan. At the age of just 28, Chauhan is the principal conductor of the main orchestra in Parma, the northern city chosen as Italy's Capital of Culture for 2020.

'It's incredible to lead an orchestra in Italy, the place where music was born'
Alpesh Chauhan is the principal conductor at Parma's Filarmonica Arturo Toscanini. Photo: Marcello Orselli

Despite still having a base in the UK, the role in Parma has given Chauhan the chance to get to know the city and travel to other parts of Italy for concerts. When The Local spoke to the conductor, he was in Verona for rehearsals, and he has upcoming concerts in Milan as well as across Europe in the UK, Netherlands, Spain and France. 

“There's so much I love about Italian culture and the longer I stay here, the more I learn about it,” he says. “I was interested to see how regional the food traditions are — you can drive 20 kilometres in any direction and the menus will change. I love the lifestyle, the wine, and just being in the place where music was born.”

Taking up the role in Parma came with challenges, including the obvious language barrier leading an orchestra mainly made up of Italians. But Chauhan says the players encouraged him to try to speak Italian as much as possible, offering translations for words he didn't understand, which has helped him learn the language impressively fast.

“When you learn a word in that situation, on the job, you always remember it,” the conductor explains. “It's very helpful that music has a lot of Italian words, so the hardest thing for me was finding the filler words — in music you just get the bare instructions. But when you go for a drink after rehearsals, I've found you learn so much just through listening and seeing how they put sentences together.”'


At the end of a performance. Photo: Luca Trascinelli

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One big difference in the working cultures between Italy and his native England is the professional hierarchy, which Chauhan has found is stricter in Italy.

“In other countries, you have a professional relationship but it's casual enough for them to call you by your first name. In Italy, in the first rehearsal they all get on their feet and using the term 'maestro' is a sign of respect. I tell them they can call me Alpesh but they say that when I'm on the box, I'm the maestro,” he explains.

Despite the formality of the conductor-musician relationship, Chauhan says he has found a sense of community and loyalty in Italy which surprised him. In many ways, he says Italy's culture is “worlds apart” from Britain's, but he has found many similarities with India, where his parents are from. 

He finds that in both countries, once you have been accepted as part of a community — such as the orchestra — everyone in it will go the extra mile to treat you well.


Photo: Patrick Allen

“There's a real sense that people look after you, even at work it's extremely familial and people will do their best for you. Both Italian and Indian culture revolve around family, friends, being together with good company and good food.”

This familial atmosphere makes it easier to do a job that he says at times makes for “a very lonely life”. Chauhan says that most conductors never formally retire, but continue working and carrying out the travel that involves into their 70s, 80s, and beyond.

The nature of the job requires moving from place to place rather than sticking with one orchestra, but he notes that with friends in different cities and technology offering constant connections to friends and family, conductors today aren't as isolated as they may once have been.

READ ALSO: Meet the Italian 'father of disco' still behind the decks at 78

What's more, for Chauhan there's no possibility of doing anything else — he describes conducting as an “obsession.” 

There are no other musicians in his family, but he first discovered classical music when a cello teacher performed at his school, prompting him to sign up for lessons in the instrument. 

When asked what it was that drew him to the cello, the 27-year-old can't quite put his finger on it: “It was just something that really focussed me, like a fire burning inside me. I was always wanting to get my cello out and play, always looking ten pages later in my practice books to see what was coming up, so my music teacher had to rein me in and be methodical, explaining that I had to work my way there.”


The Parma orchestra. Photo: Gianni Cravedi

While playing in youth orchestras, he developed an interest in the role of the conductor and how they brought all the musicians and their music together, and one day came across a stack of old orchestral scores in a library cabinet at his school.

Chauhan asked the school's Head of Music if he could take home any spare copies of the scores, and was able to. “No-one really uses those in schools now; in music classes you just do basic keyboard exercises, usually. So I started studying them myself, all the time really — I'd be looking at them in other classes whenever I got bored.”

READ ALSO: Five great reasons why Parma is Italy's 2020 capital of culture

Having started out in youth orchestras while conducting on the side, Chauhan's career has since gone from strength to strength, including a debut at the UK's BBC Proms and conducting a BAFTA-winning film, before taking up the role at Parma's Filarmonica Arturo Toscanini at the start of this season.

He has concerns that other children from similar non-musical backgrounds might miss out on the opportunity to fall in love with music due to cuts to arts in the schools and funding cuts to orchestras and other cultural organizations.


Photo: Luca Trascinelli

“There's a sadness among the players here, because Italy has always had a great musical culture so they remember how it used to be. I thought this would be less of a problem in Italy, but the more I speak to colleagues here the more I realize it is an issue here as well, and the financial crisis has made things particularly difficult,” Chauhan explains.

In the UK, he has been involved in projects to promote music in schools, creating a film and educational resources based around ten pieces of classical music, and he hopes that similar projects can raise the status of classical music worldwide.

“You need to put instruments in the hands of children, you need schools and authorities to understand the importance of music. It keeps your mind healthy, it gives you things of incredible value: cooperation, creativity, patience, self-confidence and self-expression,” the conductor says.

“Music is as important as sport, but with sport you have immediate visible effects — you can see if someone's obese and you can tell if you struggle to walk up a flight of stairs. But music and the arts are a big part of positive mental health, and it's very sad to deprive a generation of this opportunity.”

READ ALSO: Italy puts 200,000 classic Italian songs online for free

 

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TAXES

‘How we moved to Italy and only pay tax on 50 percent of our income’

Italy’s impatriate tax scheme appeals to many foreigners planning to relocate to Italy, but how exactly does it work? One British couple who used it tell reporter Silvia Marchetti about their experience.

'How we moved to Italy and only pay tax on 50 percent of our income'

Thanks to Italy’s appealing impatriate tax scheme, John and Linda Baker, both 42, from Brighton, now pay tax on just 50 percent of their income – which is about as low as any Italian could ever dream of.

Both remote workers, John is a web designer working for UK clients, while Linda is a freelance copywriter.

In November they rented out their house in Brighton and moved to the Italian seaside resort of Amantea, in Calabria, where they bought a two-bedroom cottage in the countryside, far from the touristy coast, for €59,000.

“We applied for the impatriate tax scheme as soon as we realised we wanted to change life, quit the rat race and move to a sunny place where life was slower-paced,” John tells The Local. 

“It sounded like a great deal, paying tax on just half our income means we get to save a significant amount of money we would never have in the UK.”

This special tax regime for those moving to Italy was approved in 2019 and is available to people who move to any part of the country. Aimed at qualified and skilled foreign workers, it’s for both employed and self-employed people who become fiscal residents and reside in Italy at least 183 days per year.

READ ALSO: What is Italy’s impatriate tax rule and how is it changing?

The 50-percent tax relief on income applies for a maximum of five years and can be extended for another five.

The benefit is capped at an annual salary of €600,000, while no relief is in place for earnings over this amount. The exempt portion of income rises to 60 percent for a worker with at least one child under 18. 

The scheme has been amended over the past few years, and though it has become somewhat less appealing, it still gets plenty of interest. Italians living abroad can also apply and benefit from it. 

Italy’s government introduced the scheme mainly to lure back qualified Italian workers and researchers who had moved abroad. But those taking advantage of it are often foreigners longing to live in Italy.

The Bakers got help from an immigration legal expert in Rome, who sorted out the paperwork for them and filed their application to the Italian authorities. 

READ ALSO: If you want quality of life, choose Italy’s sunny south over the efficient north

“We could have applied directly from the UK but we thought it was better to hire an Italian professional on the ground, with deep knowledge of Italian bureaucracy and the required skills to navigate through procedures,” says Linda. 

The lowest tax band rate in Italy is 23 percent, while the highest is 43 percent. While the Bakers prefer not to disclose how much each one of them earns, they say they will be saving a lot of money, considering income tax in the UK hovers around 40 percent. The couple is confident that the two of them together could save up to €30,000 in taxes per year. 

With the extra money, the Bakers would like to buy another holiday home in Naples, so as to be closer to Rome.

READ ALSO: ‘Research and more research’: How do you choose the right part of Italy to move to?

They decided to ditch the UK due to soaring living costs, and because they wanted to live the Italian dream before they retired, while they were still actively working. 

“Usually when couples retire they start looking for a fresh start, but we did not feel like waiting until we were 60 or 70 to make the big leap and relocate to Italy,” says John. 

Amantea is relatively cheap. Dinner for two people is €35, while utility bills are among the lowest in Italy, adds Linda.

“There are also premium foods like Tropea’s red onions, Calabria’s famous chili peppers, and delicious pasta dishes which we could never even dream of back in the UK”, says John. 

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