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FOOD AND DRINK

Italian food industry outraged by WHO report that calls for warning labels on salty foods

Several key industry leaders have rallied against a World Health Organization report that calls for governments and national institutions to reduce citizens' salt and sugar intake as a move towards a healthier diet.

Published: 18 July 2018 17:20 CEST
Italian food industry outraged by WHO report that calls for warning labels on salty foods
Parma ham, parmesan cheese and olive oil are key 'Made in Italy' brands. Photo: lisovskaya/Depositphotos

The report, titled 'Time to Deliver,' does not directly threaten the status of any Italian products, although some of the language used has set alarm bells ringing.

One of the WHO's objectives in the report states: “Reduce salt intake through the reformulation of food products to contain less salt and the setting of target levels for the amount of salt in foods and meals.” 

It also aims to “reduce salt intake through the implementation of front-of-pack labelling,” in the same way that cigarette packets carry health warnings. Italian stakeholders fear this could affect some of Italy's biggest gastronomic delicacies, such as parmesan, Parma ham and olive oil, according to an inquiry by Il Sole 24 Ore. 

The WHO's suggestions, even if approved at a global meeting scheduled for September 27th, would not force Italy to abide by any outcome as each country is free to adopt the norms or reject them on a national basis. 

Several Italian industry leaders and political figures nevertheless sought to put down any threat against the 'Made in Italy' brand.

“I cannot imagine that our products like Grana Padano, parmesan, Parma ham or oil could be considered the same way as chemical products,” tweeted Gian Carlo Centinaio, Italy's far-right Minister for Agriculture, Food and Forestry Policies, claiming that the report placed “Italy under attack.” 

FOLLIA PURA: PRODOTTI ITALIANI SOTTO ATTACCO!
Gian Marco Centinaio:”Non posso pensare che i nostri prodotti come il Grana Padano, il Parmigiano, il Prosciutto di Parma o l'olio vengano considerati come i prodotti chimici che spesso vengono venduti… https://t.co/GrKnVpeo0R

— Lega Toscana – Salvini Premier (@LNToscana) July 18, 2018

“Parmesan, ham, pizza and oil are as damaging to your health as cigarettes,” quipped Luigi Scordamaglia, president of Italian food and beverages lobby Federalimentare. 

Parmigiano, Prosciutto, pizza e olio nuocciono gravemente alla salute, come una sigaretta. #OMS e #ONU dichiarano guerra al diabete e alle malattie cardiovascolari con attacco strumentale e inaccettabile ad eccellenze agroalimentari #madeinitaly. #17Luglio https://t.co/fvsIatT62D

— Luigi Scordamaglia (@L_Scordamaglia) July 17, 2018

Scordamaglia said the report, which is part of an effort to reduce global deaths from cancer by a third by 2030, represents “a structural attack” on Italian brands and that it's “unacceptable.” The report also takes aim at products heavy in sugar and fats. 

The WHO's recommendations have apparently sent shockwaves throughout the Mediterranean nations, according to Il Sole 24 Ore. French cheese, Spanish ham (jamón ibérico) and Greek olives could all be targeted, claims that report. 

The Italian business news portal says any new measures could favour chemical-based products such as Coca-Cola Light vis-a-vis traditional agricultural foods. 

The WHO's report also suggests quotas for sugar products and media awareness campaigns to highlight the dangers of high intakes of fats, salt and sugar. 

“A resolution of this type, although it does not involve the obligation to be incorporated by the Member States, would cause considerable damage to the image of the national food industry. Just think that wine, olive oil, parmesan and Parma ham, all symbolic 'Made in Italy' products, known and appreciated all over the world, could all be affected,” Franco Verrascina, president of Italian agricultural federation Copagri, told Repubblica. 

READ MORE: The one dessert you have to try in each of Italy's regions

 

 

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FOOD AND DRINK

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

As well as its most famous cocktails, Italy has a long tradition of making refreshing aperitivo drinks without the alcohol.

Published: 11 April 2024 12:01 CEST
Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

Italy’s favourite aperitivo-hour cocktails are known far beyond the country’s borders, so their names will probably be familiar to you whether you drink them or not.

But if you’re in Italy and not drinking alcohol, you might find yourself stumped when it comes time to order your aperitivo at the bar.

The first time I found myself in this situation, there was no menu. The waiter instead rattled off a long list of all the soft drinks available, most of which I’d never heard of, and I just picked something I thought sounded nice.

Luckily it turns out that Italy has some great options for an aperitivo analcolico. As well as ‘virgin’ versions of well-known cocktails, there are bitters, sodas and other Italian-made soft drinks that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

They might not be quite as iconic as the Aperol Spritz, but they’re as thoroughly Italian – plus, effortlessly ordering one of these will make you look like a true local.

SanBittèr

San Pellegrino’s SanBittèr is one of the most famous non-alcoholic Italian drinks of all, with its highly-recognisable red packaging, often enjoyed in place of Campari cocktails because of its similar dark, ruby-red color.

This drink is carbonated with a slightly sweet, citrus flavor. The recipe is more complex than that of an orange or lemon soda, with notes of spice and herbs, making it ideal to pair with your aperitivo-hour snacks.

Crodino

Crodino looks a lot like an Aperol Spritz with its bright orange hue, and that’s not an accident: it’s said to have been created as a non-alcoholic alternative, and the zesty, slightly herbal taste is similar. It’s typically served the same way. in a round goblet glass over ice with a slice of orange: a Crodino Spritz.

The name comes from the town of Crodo in Piedmont, where it is still bottled today by the Campari group.

Chinotto

Citrusy Chinotto is an acquired taste for many, but it’s worth trying: it’s one of the classic Italian bitters and is said to have a long history, dating back to a recipe shared by Chinese sailors arriving on the Ligurian coast in the 1500s.

It may look a little like Coca Cola, but don’t let the appearance fool you.

(Photo by Eugene Gologursky /Getty Images via AFP)

Aranciata/Limonata

Aranciata is Italy’s version of an orange soda, but not as sugary, and it tastes like oranges. Its base is sparkling water with the addition of orange juice and sugar. There are various brands, but San Pellegrino’s is the most popular. It also sells a ‘bitter’ aranciata amaro, with even less sugar, more citrus tang and herbal notes, which might be more aperitivo-hour appropriate.

Limonata is, as you might guess, the Italian answer to lemonade. Again there are many versions out there but the fizzy San Pellegrino limonata is beloved for its strong, sweet-sour flavour and there’s nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day.

Cedrata

Cedrata is one of Italy’s oldest and best-known non-alcoholic drinks. It’s a refreshing, carbonated drink made from a large citrus fruit called a cedro, grown in southern Italy. It’s far less bitter than a Chinotto, but not as sweet as limonata.

The main producer of Cedrata today is Tassoni, and this is what you’re likely to get if you order it at a bar.

Gingerino

This is harder to find than the other aperitivi on the list and is seen as decidedly retro, but it’s worth trying if you can track it down.

It’s another orange-coloured, sparkling drink which became popular in Italy in the 1970s and is still sold today, though you’re more likely to find it in the north-east, close to Venice, where it’s produced.

You may be expecting it to taste a lot like ginger beer, and there are similarities, but it has stronger citrus notes and more bitterness.

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