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SWEDISH FOOD

Swedish recipe: How to make asparagus mousse with prawns and dill

Easy-to-make Swedish summer classic. Food writer John Duxbury shares one of his favourite recipes with The Local.

Swedish recipe: How to make asparagus mousse with prawns and dill
Asparagus mousse with prawns and dill. Photo: John Duxbury/Swedish Food

Asparagus is, without doubt, my favourite vegetable. When asparagus is in season I am tempted to eat it every day. I usually just steam it and eat it with some nice hollandaise sauce. It is so good I generally like it cooked simply.

However, for a party I am not keen on cold asparagus. It just isn’t the same once cold so I prefer to make asparagus mousse instead. The mousse can even be made a day or two in advance and just finished off before guests arrive.

Summary

Serves: 4

Level: Very Easy

Preparation: 15 minutes

Cooking: 5 minutes

Total: 20 minutes + 3 hours chilling

Tips

– Swedes claim that hand-shelled prawns always taste much better, but I must admit it is so time-consuming I seldom bother.

– Sometimes I add some chopped quail’s egg to the garnish: mix two chopped quail’s eggs with a teaspoon or so of mayonnaise and place on the top of the mousse in the centre before garnishing with the prawns.

Ingredients

250 g (8 oz) green asparagus spears

2 gelatine sheets

4 tbsp whipping cream

300 g (10 oz) prawns (shrimps)

1 tbsp dill, finely chopped

salt and white pepper to taste

1 lemon, zest only

Method

1. Break the ends off the asparagus spears. Rinse them thoroughly to wash any grit off.

2. Cook for 2 minutes in lightly salted boiling water. Remove three tablespoons of the asparagus water and put in a small saucepan.

3. Drain and refresh the asparagus under cold water.

4. When the asparagus is cool, puree it in a food processor.

5. Soak the gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold water for 4-5 minutes. Remove from the water and gently squeeze out any excess water. Add it to the saucepan with the three tablespoons of asparagus water.

6. Heat the asparagus water and gelatine over a gentle heat, stirring occasionally. Once the gelatine is completely melted, remove from the heat and add a tablespoon of the asparagus puree. Stir thoroughly then add the rest of the asparagus puree.

7. Whip the cream lightly and then stir it into the puree.

8. Roughly chop half the prawns (shrimps) and add to the asparagus mousse.

9. Mix in the dill, salt and white pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

10. Transfer to individual serving dishes or glasses and chill for at least 3 hours.

11. Garnish with the remaining prawns, roughly chopped if desired, and top with some lemon zest.

Recipe courtesy of John Duxbury, editor of Swedish Food

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FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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