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CARNIVAL

Inflated pigs’ bladders vs. jesters: the difference between Fastnacht and Karneval

With Karneval festivities in Cologne and across the Rhineland fast approaching, another festival - Fastnacht - will also soon take place in the south of Germany. Here’s how the two traditions compare.

Inflated pigs’ bladders vs. jesters: the difference between Fastnacht and Karneval
A reveller at Karneval (left) and at Fastnacht (right). Photos: DPA

Large parts of the country come to a standstill for carnival in the days leading up to Lent in February.

In the Rhine region, the biggest carnival celebrations can be found in Cologne, with essential festivities taking place from February 8th to 14th. But Karnevale – complete with parades, floats and costumed revellers – also take place in cities like Aachen, Düsseldorf and Mainz.

Down in the Swabian region in southern Germany, as well as in parts of Switzerland and western Austria, a more serious tradition called Fastnacht, which distinguishes itself from the Rhenish carnival also bursts out in February.

Both traditions – Karneval and the Swabian-Alemannic Fastnacht – may seem similar, but they have their own individual peculiarities. 

READ ALSO: 7 events across Germany you won't want to miss this February

Häs or Häschen?

For a Swabian Narr (Fool), the Häs, or costume worn during Fastnacht, is often based on designs that date back centuries. Costumes are also crafted by hand and can cost several thousand euros. Many wear a Häs that has been handed down through the generations.

In the southwest region of Germany, it’s an all-round more serious affair compared to carnivals further to the north. Some of the oldest processions take place in Villingen, Oberndorf and Elzach.

People in the town of Rottweil in the Black Forest have a custom of polishing their hand-carved wooden masks for the Narrensprung (Fools’ Leap) procession – to take place this year on February 12th and 13th.

Fastnacht also has a more sinister and medieval feel to it in the Baden-Württemberg town, with grotesquely-masked witches scaring children and some adults.

Festival-goers at the Karneval parade last year in Düsseldorf. Photo: DPA

Meanwhile revellers in the Rhineland are more likely to be dressed up as cowboys, clowns or Häschen (bunny rabbits). Hardcore festival-goers often opt to make their own costume instead of buying one.

Sweet or savoury?

Whereas sweets are thrown into the crowds during the parades that take place at Karneval, Swabian Fools prefer savoury dishes.

Baden-Württemberg's minister president Winfried Kretschmann, for example, enjoys eating a traditional dish called Froschkutteln (frog tripe) at Fastnacht. But before you judge too quickly, despite its name, the dish is actually made with beef and not frogs.

A kiss or a… calf’s tail?

At Karneval, a festival of excess with lots of booze and love to go around, anyone who attends should expect to be kissed on the cheeks by total strangers at least once. Even public officials have to put up with being greeted this way; to reject them is seen as rude.

A Federahannes carrying a pole in Rottweil, Baden-Württemberg. Photo: DPA

But in Rottweil, a tradition that’s arguably even more unusual takes place, when Federahannes – Fools who have large teeth curving out of their mouth and costumes covered in goose feathers – rush at spectators carrying a long pole. Attached to the pole is a heavily perfumed calf's tail which the Fool dangles in people's faces while growling and purring.

At some Fastnacht processions, young women are also teased in the face with a Saublodere (the inflated bladder of a pig) or a Farrenschwanz (an oxtail).

Humour or… none at all?

Carnival has various origins, stemming from the Roman tradition of celebrating the start of spring and ancient Germanic fertility rites. Christians adopted the traditions as a way to usher in the fasting period before Easter.

It’s also seen as an opportunity to poke fun at the authorities, as reflected in satirical floats at the big carnival processions in the Rhineland.

Some Rhineland carnival societies have colourful 19th-century military outfits that were designed to poke fun at the French and the Prussian authorities who at various points in history had the audacity to ban carnival out of fear that the revellers might be plotting sedition behind their masks.  

Last year a float at the Düsseldorf parade depicted the American President Donald Trump apparently raping the Statue of Liberty.

But this kind of humour is suspect for Swabian revellers, according to carnival expert and author Wolfgang Oelsne.

At Fastnacht the “humour is more subtle and less arbitrary,” Oelsne said.

READ ALSO: 10 words you need to know before Cologne Carnival

CAKE

Kaffee und Kuchen: The history behind a very German tradition

This leisurely afternoon ritual is key to the German lifestyle.

Kaffee und Kuchen: The history behind a very German tradition
A family takes part in the Kaffee und Kuchen tradition in Zellingen, Bavaria. Photo: DPA

The mid-afternoon is a signal to many Germans for a traditional pick-me-up in the form of “Kaffee und Kuchen” – literally, coffee and cake. 

Be it with coworkers, friends, or family, the culture of “Kaffeeklatsch” (the act of catching up over the two delights) enjoys nationwide popularity, typically between the hours of 3 and 4pm. 

READ ALSO: Nine German treats you'll want to eat right now (and one you won't)

You might invite guests to your home to show off your own hand-baked goods, or if you prefer to trust someone else to take care of the baking instead, countless cafes and the more authentic ‘Konditorei’ are dotted all over the country – and as a general rule of thumb, the more old-fashioned, the better.

A typical selection at a Konditorei. Photo: DPA

A longstanding tradition

The origins of the beloved custom can be traced back to the 17th century, when coffee was first imported to Germany. In these times, it was only the aristocracy who would indulge in the pastime, but by the 19th century the indulgent treat became more accessible, and the combination has since become a cultural staple.

Whilst the working world often only allows for a quick, shop-bought treat during the week, Germans will often make use of the weekends to celebrate with large pots of coffee and a selection of delicious sweet treats.

READ ALSO: A brewing moment: Germany's baristas compete to create world's top coffee

And despite being somewhat comparable to the English custom of ‘afternoon tea’, the cakes you’ll find in Germany are nowhere near as dainty.

Expect to see a big slab of decadent Bienenstich, Erdbeertorte or Baumkuchen enticing you from behind the glass counter of the patisserie. 

Regional variations

Exactly how your ‘coffee and cake’ set-up may look differs across the country and time of year, as traditional German cakes vary according to both region and season. 

In the Black Forest, cafes are known for their Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte – indulgent layers of whipped cream and chocolate sponge (with added cherry liquor as the secret ingredient) are topped with chocolate shavings and cherries. 

A slice of Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte. Photo: DPA

In Bavaria, it’s the Prinzregententorte, which combines seven layers of sponge and chocolate buttercream to symbolise its seven districts, finished with apricot jam, dark chocolate and cream. 

Frankfurt’s speciality is the Frankfurter Kranz, a Bundt cake layered with jam and buttercream and sprinkled with caramelised nuts. Over the festive period, Germans enjoy Stollen, a Christmas speciality from Saxony – a fruit bread made of nuts, spices and dried fruit and coated with icing sugar. 

Bringing together the chance to catch up with friends and to sample some delicious German delicacies, indulging in ‘Kaffee und Kuchen’ really is the perfect way to spend your Mittagspause (afternoon break).

 
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