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Germany’s oldest bookseller, 95, packs suspense in last chapter

When Helga Weyhe began work at her beloved bookshop, the Red Army was on the march towards her east German town, Hitler still clung to power and Sartre had just published "No Exit".

Germany's oldest bookseller, 95, packs suspense in last chapter
Bookshop owner Helga Weyhe in her Salzwedel shop. Photo: John MacDougall / AFP
Fast-forward more than seven decades and the remarkably spry 95-year-old, Germany's oldest bookseller, swats away any talk of retirement, or even slowing down. Still staffing the store six days a week, Weyhe said books got her through two dictatorships and would see her through her last chapter too.
 
“I started in 1944 and I'm still here,” she told AFP with a smile, sitting in her back office stacked with handpicked volumes. “I had lots of dreams when I was young but they always involved books.”
 
Weyhe represents the third generation of her family to run the shop, which has occupied the same spot since 1840. Her grandfather had the caramel-brown shelves built in the 1880s, when Otto von Bismarck ruled Germany.
 
A tome about the life of the Iron Chancellor is propped among the political biographies, one of the specialities of Weyhe's eclectic selection ranging from French existentialists to German classics to Hollywood screenplays.
 
Each volume in the shop carries Weyhe's endorsement, even if she hasn't read each cover to cover. She can't abide the towering identical stacks of the big chain stores.
 
“You won't find mystery novels here either, not unless they're something special,” she said sternly, reserving praise for Agatha Christie and German thriller writer Ingrid Noll.
 
Photo: John MacDougall / AFP
 
 'The most horrible thing'
 
With World War 2 still raging, Weyhe started working with her father Walter at his shop that still bears the family name in the half-timbered house where they both were born.
 
They ran it together under Soviet occupation and the East German communist state (GDR) and she took over in 1965, four years after the regime made them prisoners of the country behind the Iron Curtain.
 
“In the GDR the most horrible thing was getting used to it all, thinking: 'I won't live to see the day things change',” Weyhe said.
 
That meant biding her time until East Germany's official retirement age — when travel restrictions for citizens were loosened — before she could go abroad to visit a favourite uncle, who ran a prominent bookshop on New York's Lexington Avenue.
 
“Imagine what it's like as a young person having to wait until you're 60 to be able to travel,” she said. “Going to New York wasn't just any trip — it was a dream come true.”
 
The Salzwedel shop is filled with pictures of the New York skyline, and a blue street sign with the address of her uncle's now-defunct store greets customers as they enter.
 
Last year Weyhe accepted a lifetime achievement prize from the German Booksellers' Association, which officially proclaimed her the country's oldest practitioner of the trade.
 
“When I won, I said this isn't mine alone, it's for my family which has held on here for so long,” she said.
 
She said Salzwedel, population 25,000, lying 200 kilometres northwest of Berlin, has long punched above its literary weight thanks to her shop.
 
“I try to have books that amaze people and make them say 'you sell that in this little town?'” Weyhe said. 
 
“That is why I draw customers from far away — I like to say my clientele is from Boston to Bangkok,” she added with a grin.
 
Photo: John MacDougall / AFP
Photo: John MacDougall / AFP 
 
Not a 'missionary'
 
Longtime customer Klaus Schartmann, a pastor, believes Weyhe has a rare gift for sizing up a reader.
 
“She always hits the nail on the head with her recommendations — from children's books to adult literature,” the 78-year old said. “And we're happy because you don't really find that in German bookstores anymore — only in Salzwedel.”
 
In the land where Gutenberg invented the printing press in the 15th century, customers are increasingly going online for their book purchases, with sales rising more than five percent in 2016. Meanwhile bookshops, particularly those on high streets rather than in shopping malls, saw a one-percent decline in turnover, continuing a decade-long trend, according to industry data.
 
Weyhe believes in the power of books to edify and uplift, as the far-right Alternative for Germany (AfD) party makes major inroads in the region. Although she doesn't see her shop serving a “missionary” purpose in leading customers away from political extremes, she does make a point of selecting books that open minds.
 
“In the post-war years I mainly stocked German history books so people here would know what actually happened,” she said. 
 
“I simply don't sell the kind of books now that strengthen the AfD,” she said, pointing to recent bestsellers that whipped up fears of mass migration.
 
Weyhe is coy when asked when she might ease into retirement — she never married and has no children.
 
“It could be today, it could be tomorrow. Or it could be a while yet still,” she said, savouring the cliffhanger.
 
But she is firm that she is irreplaceable in her shop.
 
“All kinds of people have come here and said that they could take over,” she said with a smirk.
 
“But my goodness, who else can help a man like Herr Schartmann,” she added, referring to her loyal customer. “Not just anyone can have that conversation — you have to have a bit of experience.”
 
By AFP's Deborah Cole

BOOKS

OPINION: ‘These are the things that make Madrid a celebration of daily life’

Did you know that a gin and tonic tastes better in Madrid than anywhere else in the world? This is just one of things that makes Spain's capital a place to love, according to author Soledad Fox Maura.

OPINION: 'These are the things that make Madrid a celebration of daily life'
Photo by Victor Garcia on Unsplash

Sometimes Madrid feels like a huge, sprawling city (i.e. if you’re on the M-40 highway), but if you manage to stay within the central part, and walk or use public transport, it can feel like a collection of charming, connected villages or small towns. I love the latter incarnation of the city because of its human scale, and the way it reflects organic urban growth.

When I was little my mother and grandfather would often point out a newly developed area, and tell me “There used to be nothing there. La Castellana was a dirt road where children went roller skating”or “The bus route that now goes to Pavones used to end right here at the Retiro Park. That was the end of that part of the city.”

Where there was nothing, new apartment blocks were built so that people could move out of crowded neighborhoods like Chueca. Flash forward a generation later and many of the people who grew up in those contemporary utopian developments with grassy areas and swimming pools would do anything for an apartment in Chueca and other central neighborhoods that came into their own and became the height of trendiness.

There were many empty building plots or solares in my childhood. These made the city seem even sunnier and brighter than it nearly always is. Over the years I have come to love new small neighborhoods that I have lived in, and discovered others along the way. Some of my favorite places are lifelong standards. My Madrid is a mix of a primal blueprint and constantly adapting to novelty and my changing tastes.

For many years, I studied flamenco at the Amor de Dios dance studios on the Calle Santa Isabel, just across from the Filmoteca de Madrid.The studios are on the second floor of the Mercado de San Antón. I always looked forward to walking through the market, seeing the varied stands, and enjoying the aroma of one of the best olive vendors in Madrid. Once upstairs, there was nothing but flamenco. Small and large studios, showing their wear and tear, but fully functioning and packed all day with students, mainly local, but some international, learning bulerías, or guitar, or cante jondo, or how to play the flamenco percussión instrument, el cajón.

The windows of one of the small classrooms looked onto the inner courtyard of a convent. I always wondered what the nuns thought of the racket we made. For an hour a day I could feel like a true bailaora and I always left the market with a delicious purchase, or some flowers, and a feeling of exhilaration. I hope that Amor de Dios—temporarily closed–survives the pandemic. It is such a magical madrileño institution, thanks to the hard work, passion, and arte of generations of teachers and students.

A perfect afternoon-evening for me would be a dance class with sevillano Juan Fernández, a movie at the filmoteca, and a quiet dinner at Vinoteca Moratín. Another favorite is the Renoir Retiro cinema (great selection of V.O. films) and then a bite (or two) at the bar of Catapa.


Photo: AFP

 

Of course I love the Prado, Thyssen, Reina Sofía, Caixa Forum—all so spectacular and so conveniently located in the same part of the city–and many other smaller museums. I have spent many hours at the Prado preparing to teach Spanish painting, and I don’t think there could be a nicer place to work. The museum’s library is also beautiful. 

I have a special weakness for Casa-Museos, like the Lazaro Galdiano and the Sorolla museums. It’s always wonderful to imagine how artists and collectors lived, and these beautiful properties with their gardens are like time machines that take us back to a luxurious version of Madrid where people lived in palacetes much like the hotels particuliers of Paris.

The Biblioteca Nacional is also one of my favorite places to study Spain’s past or find books and documents unavailable elsewhere. Just having access to the building and its collections is a privilege. The Residencia de Estudiantes is a semi-hidden cultural center with rosemary and lavender-lined walkways off of the Calle Serrano. It’s where Federico García Lorca, Buñuel, Dali (and many other notables) lived as students. Tip: not only does it have an intense program of evening events, it also has a wonderful, peaceful, sleek restaurant.

Madrid is a celebration of daily life. Basically, give me almost any madrileño barrio, and this could be defined as simply as a city block with a panadería, a farmacia, news agent, a couple of bars, a butcher, and a frutería, where my morning errands and breakfast (and sometimes even a second breakfast) can be taken care of, and I’m off to the races.

But nothing beats a mercado. After San Antón (which I have renamed the Flamenco market) my favorite is El Mercado de la Paz, built in 1882. It is not in my barrio, but it is close enough to walk to and once a week I go to have lunch at Casa Dani and buy a few special things.

Casa Dani, reknowned for its pincho de tortilla, is a small restaurant in the middle of the market and has no windows to the outside, but this doesn’t stop it from having the best menú del día in Madrid. The options change every day, but I can go for months with a salmorejo, lubina, and fresas con naranja. The affordable menú (which is not just menu with an accent on the “u”, but “prix-fixe”) changes daily and once in a while I will go for the sopa de cocido or the extravagant arroz con bogavante. One must arrive early or be prepared to wait in a long line. The construction workers and local office people who are regulars know exactly when to show up and accompany their meals with tinto con casera or cañas.


Photo: AFP

 

After all this eating and/or research at a library, I need to clear my mind, and get some fresh air. Many of my favorite destinations are just across the Retiro Park, so whenever I can I walk under the horse chestnut trees that line the wide promenades. The Retiro is large enough for me to take different routes every day. In May the book fair, Feria del Libro takes over and I like to go early in the morning before it gets mobbed to make my way through the infinite maze of vendors that set up shop. In other seasons, the international bookshop Desperate Literature on the Calle Campomames is a must.  Books, a park, and a pincho de tortilla just about cover the basics of an ideal life for me.

Look up at the city’s sky and it is an ever-changing series of blues that become lavender-tinged at sunset. The evening is the perfect time to wander around the Madrid de los Austrías—the gardens of the Príncipe de Anglona, the tabernas on the Cava Baja, and the lovely artisanal jewelry workshop that Helena Rohner has on the Calle del Almendro. Just the name of the street makes me happy. 

On another note, Madrid is a very easy city to love and leave. There are many nearby escapadas to be taken. Especially by AVE. The high speed train has revolutionized life in Spain, and in under 3 hours you can leave from the Atocha train station and be in the center of Barcelona, or in Sevilla or Córdoba. In 20 minutes you can be in Segovia (from Chamartín Station) and in the heat of summer I like to go to La Granja, just minutes from Segovia and home to an eigtheenth century former royal summer palace. The palace’s gardens are at an elevation of close to 1200 meters, and the temperature is notably cooler and clean. Even in August.

I often remember Langston Hughes’ description of Madrid during the Civil War. Bombs were falling, but people were out on the streets, and in bars drinking a beer if they could get their hands on one. After the 2008 economic crisis, a foreign journalist friend came to Madrid and was indeed skeptical about the financial woes of Spain, “All the bars and terrazas are full. Doesn’t look like a recession to me,”she said.

Madrid has survived difficult and tragic times—the Civil War, a decades-long dictatorship, financial and political crises, and most recently, the pandemic and the lockdown. It is mourning and witnessing ongoing Covid-19 deaths. And yet, madrileños are out on the street every day getting to work, looking after their families, and still enjoying the daily, simple pleasures the city offers. El mundo sigue.

On a final note, a gin and tonic tastes better in Madrid than anywhere else. Visitors have pointed this out to me over the years, and I agree. The tonic is always served in a little bottle (and not from one of those sad soda guns) and the lemons are fragrant. Is there more to the secret? Some people say the water in Madrid is especially delicious, so the ice also has a geographical advantage. Salud.

Soledad Fox Maura is a Professor of Spanish and Comparative Literature at Williams College. She has recently published articles in El País and Lit Hub, and her first novel, Madrid Again, was released in November 2020 by Arcade. The  MAdrid bookstore Desperate Literature will be hosting a virtual book launch on December 19th. More details HERE

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