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FOOD AND DRINK

Cheese heists to oyster raids: How France is struggling in fight against gourmet thieves

After a wave of thefts of high end gastronomic delights including oysters, cheese and fine wine, France is fighting back against the pillagers. But despite using state of the art resources such as spy oysters, the thieves are proving hard to stop.

Cheese heists to oyster raids: How France is struggling in fight against gourmet thieves
Police on motorbikes patrolling an oyster farm in western France. Photo: AFP
Criminals in France have long held an unhealthy appetite for some of the country's famed delicacies and products.
 
Indeed in December last year, 800 kilos of oysters stolen from sea farm in western France, a common occurrence during the end of year festivities as the delicacy is a staple for Christmas and New Year's dinners in French homes and restaurants.
 
The theft caused an estimated loss of a whopping €35,000.
 
Fine French wines have also been on thieves' shopping lists.
 
In August, a band of resourceful thieves used the Paris catacombs to reach a wine cellar, before making off with more than €250,000's worth of top quality alcohol. 
 
 
And then there's the cheese heists.
 
In 2015, The Local reported on another incident when four tonnes (100 wheels) of Comté cheese was stolen by thieves in the east of the country. Estimates at the time said the loot was worth anything from €40,000 upwards.
 
Four-tonne fromage heist stuns French police
Wheels of Comté cheese. Photo: Joi Ito/Flickr
 
 
The cheese heist took place under the cover of night while the cheeses were being stored in the “rue des Caves” (Cellar Street) — the nickname of the street where a large number of cheese producers age their product — causing around €10,000 worth of losses to Borrel. 
 
“The thefts have been increasing over the years: there are more and more of them and they've never been stealing as much as they are now,” Borrel told The Local. 
 
“Good farm products are in vogue. Food produced on farms is sought after and on top of that reselling has become increasingly easy because it's so hard to track it down in the markets.”
 
Thieves arrive organised and well-prepared with tools to help them make off with as much loot as they can get their hands on. 
 
“The thieves use brutal methods: ripping off iron doors, cheeses are knocked over… some cheeses have even fallen on the ground. My neighbors were robbed one year ago and the locks had been removed [from the doors] so they were well-equipped.” 
 
“We'll strengthen the security (put in alarms and cameras) and we will have to review our insurance policies because I don't think they will stop!”
 
Photo: AFP
 
According to the most recent official statistics, there were more than 10,000 thefts reported from French farms in 2013, which represents a 66 percent increase in six years. 
 
Luc Smessaert who is on the administrative council of France's leading farmers union, the FNSEA told The Local that there was still more work to be done by the local gendarmerie and police to protect French producers and farmers.
 
“It's already a difficult time for them [farmers and producers], many of whom are struggling to make ends meet,” he said. “Wine, oysters, cheese…these are all highly valuable products.  
 
“Thieves need to remember that there are people working on these farms that need to live. It shows a complete lack of respect for what they do.”
 
Tackling the problem
 
In response to increasing pressure, in 2014 the French government introduced new measures to tackle the problem. 
 
The Agri Vigilance scheme introduced by the government with support from farmers unions and the police attempts to tackle the issue of thefts of valuable products and includes real time SMS warnings about thefts going on in the area. 
 
There are now regular police patrols at farms — even resorting to using night vision goggles when necessary — before and during harvest season. 
 
A police officer conducts a patrol by canoe of oyster beds in La Tremblade, southwestern France. Photo: AFP
 
In Champagne, police carry out horseback patrols particularly during harvest season and Christmas, in order to prevent thieves targeting the precious grapes.
 
And some local police forces like one in the Charente-Maritime area of southwestern France, have gone even further, carrying out patrols on kayaks day and night at oyster farms and using drones. 
 
“The area we patrol is so vast that we don’t necessarily know to whom each farm belongs to,” Police Squadron Leader Christophe Laferriere told NBC, adding that thanks to the flying device, they can take pictures of boats’ registration numbers.
 
Farmers union rep Smessaert told The Local: “Over the past two or three years the police have been taking the problem more seriously but they need to be better prepared because thieves are organised and equipped with new technologies.”
 
The 'spy oyster' by Flex Sense. Photo: AFP
 
“We're not here to do their job.”
 
And the police aren't the only ones trying to combat the problem. 
 
French start-up Flex Sense has even created a spy oyster device, which is hidden in the water among the real oysters and is able to send an SMS to the farmer when it's moved.
 
But while technology is a handy weapon for producers it doesn't seem enough to stop the determined food thieves.
For members

SCHOOLS

Are packed lunches really banned in French schools?

School children in France are entitled to a lunchtime meal of three, or even four courses – but what if you prefer to provide meals yourself? 

Are packed lunches really banned in French schools?

French school meals are, famously, pretty good – children get a three or even four-course meal of properly prepared dishes and the menu (including cheese course) is usually published in the local town newsletter so everyone can see the types of meals being served.

The concept of a proper meal at lunchtime is an important one. “The diet of a school-age child is essential for their growth, mental development and learning abilities,” the French Education Ministry says in a preamble about school meals on its website. “It must be balanced, varied and distributed throughout the day: for example 20 percent of total energy in the morning, 40 percent at midday, 10 percent at four o’clock and 30 percent in the evening.”

And it’s not all about nutrition, the social aspect of sitting together and eating a meal is also important – the ministry continues: “Mealtime is an opportunity for students to relax and communicate. It should also be a time for discovery and enjoyment.”

All schools provide meals in a canteen and most pupils take up the opportunity – however it’s also possible for pupils to go home at lunchtime so that they can eat lunch with their parents.

The idea of taking in a packed lunch (panier-repas) is much less common in France – but is it actually banned?

The rules on lunch

At écoles (up to age 11), the local authority or établissement public de coopération intercommunale (EPCI) is responsible for providing quality school meals. This generally involves meals being provided via a central kitchen, and then delivered to the school’s kitchen, where it can be kept warm, or reheated as necessary.

The system is slightly different in collèges and lycées (attended by children aged 11 and up). In those establishments, catering falls into the purview of the wider département or region – and is routinely managed directly by individual establishments, which will have catering staff on site to prepare meals. Often, meal services are outsourced to private businesses, which operate the kitchens.

There are various rules and regulations in place regarding what food is offered, and how long a child has to eat – which is, in part, why the school lunch period is so long. Children must be allowed a 30-minute period to eat their meal, from the moment they sit down with it at the table. 

Then, they’re given time to play and relax before afternoon classes start.

READ ALSO What you need to know if your child is starting school in France

At a minimum lunch must include a main course with a side dish, a dairy-based product, as well as a starter and/or a dessert. Meals must also, the government says, be composed of 50 percent sustainable quality products (including 20 percent organic).

Some local authorities go further and serve only or mostly food that is organic, locally sourced or both.

Water and bread must be freely available, but salt and condiments can only be added in preparation – no sauce bottles or salt and pepper on the tables. 

Daily menus are generally available to view on school websites and many town newspapers or newsletters also publish them.

Parents pay a fee for the school lunch, which is calculated according to income and can be free in the case of low-income families.

Packed lunch

But what if your child doesn’t like the school lunches and you don’t have time to pick them up, cook a full lunch and take them back in the afternoon everyday? The obvious solution would seem to be to send them in with a packed lunch, as is common in the UK and USA.

In theory this is possible, but only in certain circumstances and with very strict rules and caveats. 

The Ministry, in a written response to a Senator’s question in 2019, said: “The use of packed lunches [home-supplied meals] by primary school students can provide an alternative to school meals. This method of catering is authorised in particular for children with a medically established food allergy or intolerance, requiring an adapted diet.”

READ ALSO How to enrol a non-French speaking child in school in France

It added: “the preparation and use of packed lunches in schools must follow certain rules. First of all, it is important to respect the cold chain”.

The cold chain is a term applied to food handling and distribution – it’s usually used by food-preparation businesses, but in the context of a packed lunch it means that food prepared at home must be kept in appropriately cool conditions until it is ready to eat. It would be the responsibility of parents to ensure that the food is delivered to school in containers appropriate for the job (ie an insulated cool bag).

Once at the school, it is up to whoever manages the kitchen to ensure that food is properly reheated. This becomes the sticking point at which many parents’ requests to send their children to school with a packed lunch, rather than go to the canteen, or eat back at home, are refused.

The reheating concern suggests that schools are also expecting parents to prepare a proper meal – rather than just throwing some sandwiches and a cereal bar into a bag.

Unless there’s a genuine and proven health reason for your child to eat a home-prepared meal, most parents will probably find the school won’t budge on this – even in cases of a strike by kitchen staff or lunch monitors.

READ ALSO Just how much do private schools in France cost?

The Ministry’s written response explains: “[A]s this is an optional public service, the municipality can justify its refusal to admit the children concerned by objective material and financial constraints, such as the need to equip itself with additional refrigerators, or for additional supervisory staff to supervise them during lunch.”

As well as the practicalities, for some schools this is an equality issue – because of the varied fee structure for school lunches what happens in effect is that richer parents are subsidising a good quality lunchtime meal for poorer students in the class; if everyone brought in a packed lunch and therefore stopped paying the fee, the lower-income kids would miss out. 

What about allergies or other health issues?

Children with allergies or other health issues that require a particular diet must be accommodated. An individual meal plan – known as a projet d’accueil individualisé (PAI) can be set up. More details (in French) are available here, on the government’s website.

It also becomes easier for parents to provide home-produced meals in such instances. As ever, it is up to the parents to ensure any meals are appropriately packaged and transported to school.

Not all schools

Some individual schools in France do permit pupils to bring in meals from home. They must be taken to school in an appropriate cold-storage container, and they will be stored in the kitchen area until they are needed, when meals will – if necessary – be reheated.

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