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Fierce debate in Italy’s southern regions over special status for tomatoes

The humble tomato has sparked a fierce debate between two of Italy's southern regions, which are arguing over the right to claim the foodstuff as their own.

Published: 19 January 2018 10:42 CET
Fierce debate in Italy's southern regions over special status for tomatoes
Tomatoes on display at an Italian food fair. File photo: Guiseppe Cacace/AFP

The row kicked off when Naples requested an IGP (Protected Geographic Indication) denomination for Neapolitan peeled tomatoes. 

After Naples, the capital of the Campania region, submitted its request to Italy's Agricultural Ministry, which decides which regional foods are deserving of special status, the neighbouring region of Puglia objected.

“Puglia is vital to the southern tomato industry, and it's our duty to protect our producers,” wrote Puglian councillor for agriculture Leonardo di Gioia on his Facebook page, explaining why the region would not endorse the label. 

Di Gioia said the decision was “not merely parochial, but based on merit”, adding that the majority of southern Italy's tomato production took place in Puglia while Campania's tomato industry was more processing-based. 

The latest Istat data, from August last year, shows that 174,240 kilograms of tomatoes were produced in Puglia, compared to only 23,887 kilograms in Campania. The vast majority of southern Italy's tomatoes are harvested in the Puglian province of Foggia.

In December, the two regions were engaged in a similar debate, this time over the status of mozzarella.

Italy's farming ministry granted the special DOP (protected designation of origin) label to the Puglian cheese, prompting anger in Campania, which has been home to the country's only DOP mozzarella since 1996. 

While the disputes might seem trivial to the casual observer, in Italy the IGP and DOP labels act as a clear confirmation of quality, and any products holding them must be made using specially designated ingredients and techniques. The key difference between the two is that for DOP-marked food and drinks, each step of production must be carried out in the specified region, which is not a requirement for IGP status.

Campania is home to 25 DOP and IGP food products, compared to 21 in Puglia, though the latter has more wines of designated origin: 38 compared to Campania's 29.

Online sales of falsely labelled products are estimated to cost the Italian food industry millions of euros each year.

In the case of the mozzarella, the Campanian variety is made using buffalo milk, which is three times more expensive than the cow milk used to make Puglia's version. They feared that the introduction of another, cheaper DOP mozzarella would damage the reputation and sales of buffalo mozzarello.

Further north meanwhile, a ruling last summer that tiramisu originated in Friuli and not Veneto opened an old wound in the two northern regions, both of which lay claim to the creamy coffee dessert.

READ ALSO: Italian buffaloes treated to jazz and massage to ensure tastiest mozzarella

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FOOD AND DRINK

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

As well as its most famous cocktails, Italy has a long tradition of making refreshing aperitivo drinks without the alcohol.

Published: 11 April 2024 12:01 CEST
Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

Italy’s favourite aperitivo-hour cocktails are known far beyond the country’s borders, so their names will probably be familiar to you whether you drink them or not.

But if you’re in Italy and not drinking alcohol, you might find yourself stumped when it comes time to order your aperitivo at the bar.

The first time I found myself in this situation, there was no menu. The waiter instead rattled off a long list of all the soft drinks available, most of which I’d never heard of, and I just picked something I thought sounded nice.

Luckily it turns out that Italy has some great options for an aperitivo analcolico. As well as ‘virgin’ versions of well-known cocktails, there are bitters, sodas and other Italian-made soft drinks that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

They might not be quite as iconic as the Aperol Spritz, but they’re as thoroughly Italian – plus, effortlessly ordering one of these will make you look like a true local.

SanBittèr

San Pellegrino’s SanBittèr is one of the most famous non-alcoholic Italian drinks of all, with its highly-recognisable red packaging, often enjoyed in place of Campari cocktails because of its similar dark, ruby-red color.

This drink is carbonated with a slightly sweet, citrus flavor. The recipe is more complex than that of an orange or lemon soda, with notes of spice and herbs, making it ideal to pair with your aperitivo-hour snacks.

Crodino

Crodino looks a lot like an Aperol Spritz with its bright orange hue, and that’s not an accident: it’s said to have been created as a non-alcoholic alternative, and the zesty, slightly herbal taste is similar. It’s typically served the same way. in a round goblet glass over ice with a slice of orange: a Crodino Spritz.

The name comes from the town of Crodo in Piedmont, where it is still bottled today by the Campari group.

Chinotto

Citrusy Chinotto is an acquired taste for many, but it’s worth trying: it’s one of the classic Italian bitters and is said to have a long history, dating back to a recipe shared by Chinese sailors arriving on the Ligurian coast in the 1500s.

It may look a little like Coca Cola, but don’t let the appearance fool you.

(Photo by Eugene Gologursky /Getty Images via AFP)

Aranciata/Limonata

Aranciata is Italy’s version of an orange soda, but not as sugary, and it tastes like oranges. Its base is sparkling water with the addition of orange juice and sugar. There are various brands, but San Pellegrino’s is the most popular. It also sells a ‘bitter’ aranciata amaro, with even less sugar, more citrus tang and herbal notes, which might be more aperitivo-hour appropriate.

Limonata is, as you might guess, the Italian answer to lemonade. Again there are many versions out there but the fizzy San Pellegrino limonata is beloved for its strong, sweet-sour flavour and there’s nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day.

Cedrata

Cedrata is one of Italy’s oldest and best-known non-alcoholic drinks. It’s a refreshing, carbonated drink made from a large citrus fruit called a cedro, grown in southern Italy. It’s far less bitter than a Chinotto, but not as sweet as limonata.

The main producer of Cedrata today is Tassoni, and this is what you’re likely to get if you order it at a bar.

Gingerino

This is harder to find than the other aperitivi on the list and is seen as decidedly retro, but it’s worth trying if you can track it down.

It’s another orange-coloured, sparkling drink which became popular in Italy in the 1970s and is still sold today, though you’re more likely to find it in the north-east, close to Venice, where it’s produced.

You may be expecting it to taste a lot like ginger beer, and there are similarities, but it has stronger citrus notes and more bitterness.

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