SHARE
COPY LINK

WINTER

How learning to ski helped me shake off my German winter blues

The winters in Germany seemed longer for Michelle Purse than in her native Britain. Then she took up skiing, a pastime that helped her connect with Germans and the beautiful south German landscape.

How learning to ski helped me shake off my German winter blues
Photo: DPA

I’m no stranger to the Winter Blues. I was in my late twenties and living in London when a friend first noticed that around the end of British summertime, the shorter days and darker skies had an adverse affect on my mood and turned me into a bit of an antisocial recluse.

It was about three years after I first moved to Germany that it started to become progressively worse. Add-in the standard ex-pat ingredients of feeling homesick and isolated and you have the perfect cocktail for depression, particularly SAD (seasonal affective disorder). Somehow German winters just felt longer and darker than back home.

My husband and I started floating the idea of moving back to the UK, hoping the change of geography would solve the problem, but I think we both had our doubts. So instead we decided to give Germany one last chance and in doing so we would fully commit to local life. That meant having another crack at learning German and embracing winter sports in an attempt to find something positive to focus on during the SAD season.

SEE ALSO: These are the 10 best German ski resorts

I can’t deny that the retail opportunity of a new activity immediately put the spring back in my step. After a nostalgic visit to C&A (still alive and well in Germany) I got myself a ski jacket, trousers and gloves for the bargain price of €45. As for the rest of the kit, I managed to beg and borrow it so as not to completely break the bank on the experiment.

Upon reflection, the very first time we headed to the slopes we weren’t prepared at all. It was a Friday night, and along with two friends we drove to Feldberg, a very picturesque ski resort in the Black Forest and fairly easy to access from our base in Mannheim.

Not unlike most ski resorts, the approach involved driving around steep mountain roads, which after sudden snowfall had yet to be cleared and salted by the Winterdienst. Our summer tires turned into slicks and refused to gain traction on the now lethal road surface. I ended up swerving into a precariously placed lay-by in tears as my passengers fell into an uncomfortable silence.

Luckily another driver had seen our predicament and called for reinforcements. We arrived at our hotel about an hour later attached to the back of a tractor. I was too relieved to be embarrassed and enjoyed my first two Obstwasser in rapid succession.

So, arguably the first ski lesson I ever had was the importance of changing to winter tires and packing snow chains when heading to the mountains. I have never made that mistake again.

Skiers on the Feldberg. Photo: DPA

Learning to ski was every bit as challenging as I expected. Unless you are lucky enough to learn as a child when you are agile, light and fearless, then I must warn you that it’s just a case of persisting and pushing past the aches, pains, fear and self doubt (I’m not really selling this yet, am I?).

In some ways the physical challenge of staying upright, side stepping up hills, negotiating the tricky drag lifts and the painful attempts at a controlled snowplough stop, kept my heart racing and mind fully occupied – there simply wasn’t the time or the energy available to feel down. And because it was so challenging, every little success – like managing to ski in a chosen direction and then stop without falling over – was a cause for celebration.

Thanks to the patience of my ski instructor and several more weekend trips to the Black Forest, eventually I was confident enough to tackle a seated chair lift and ski down a mountain from top to bottom – albeit slowly, and in my own special style. I was ready for the next level. I was ready for Garmisch.

Progressing to a renowned ski resort like Garmisch-Partenkirchen felt like a really big deal and meant that I could at least ski with friends who were confident skiers and needed more exciting slopes and apres-ski options than the Black Forest could offer. As the purpose of the exercise was to feel better about German winters and feel more at home here, this then seemed like a great achievement – social skiing.

Aside from the social, physical and mental health benefits of skiing, a major attraction of being part of the German winter sports scene is the beautiful mountain huts that welcome you in with a roaring fire and a delicious selection of local food. A hard work-out on the slopes is the only excuse you need to fill up on carbs and cake; it’s a diet-free zone and apres-ski partying starts at 4:15pm on the dot!

From that very first time in Feldberg when I stumbled around on skis like Bambi on ice, I fell in love with the mountains. I felt (and still feel) a deep and beautiful connection to nature when on the piste; the scenery is always breathtaking and the physical exertion is exhilarating. I couldn’t give up on learning to ski because I was already reaping the rewards and knew it would only get better, and it did. I persevered to become a confident and (almost) fearless skier.

The Winter Blues will always be challenging for me, but now my calendar from December to March is peppered with mountain adventures waiting to unfold. This season has become the highlight of my year. And though I will always lack the grace and finesse that you see in a skier that has grown up on the slopes, I do have an almost evangelical passion for the sport and how it made me feel at home here in Germany.

For members

SKIING

Snow report: What’s the latest outlook for French ski resorts this winter?

Good news for skiers in France, as a mild December has given way to a cold blast in early January that's bringing some much-needed snow.

Snow report: What's the latest outlook for French ski resorts this winter?

After a mostly dry and mild December, snow returned to the the Pyrenees on Friday.

Meanwhile most resorts in the Alps have been able to stay open after a promising early start to the ski season, thanks to fresh snowfalls, with more on the way this weekend.

Pyrenees

Snow has returned in the Pyrenees. Some 5cm fell overnight into Friday, January 5th in eastern parts of the mountain range, with forecasts predicting a further 15cm to 20cm to be on the ground 24 hours later. The region had not seen any snow since December 2nd.

In Angles, 20cm of snow had fallen at higher altitudes by mid-morning on Friday.

Further west, numerous resorts in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques département remained closed this week after early December snow had melted in mild conditions that have dominated France in recent weeks, but significant snowfall is expected over the weekend into Monday, and resorts are hoping that they will see enough to open.

One resort, Artouste, has been unable to offer skiing since the start of the season on December 23rd due to a lack of snow. A scenic rail service – usually reserved for warmer months – has kept the resort going. It is set to stop running on Friday, amid expectations of enough snow to finally open the slopes.

READ ALSO Climate crisis: ’90 percent’ of Europe’s ski resorts face critical snow shortages

Alps 

Many ski resorts opened on time, or even a little earlier than scheduled last month, after significant early snow fall, and have enjoyed deposits in the first days of 2024. But, even here, resort managers welcomed the promise of more significant snow this weekend.

Some resorts weren’t so fortunate. Ski areas in Gérardmer, in the Vosges, were still closed in the week leading up to Christmas because of poor snow conditions, but they are hoping for enough snow to finally get started this weekend, while La Bresse-Honeck was using ‘stocked snow’ made by using snow that fell earlier in the winter months to stay open as recently as December 30th.

In the Northern Alps, resorts such as Alpe d’Huez benefited from fresh snowfall on December 22nd, while Val d’Isère had new snow on December 29th. In the Southern Alps, Les Orres’ last pre-New Year snow was on December 8th.

And the French Alps have enjoyed more snow since the start of the year. There’s at least 50cm of fresh snow on the higher slopes of Les Gets and Morzine, for example, a significant improvement on the same time last year, when the resorts were among several that had very little snow to speak of.

In Chamonix, meanwhile, snow has fallen on eight of the last 14 days, with more expected every day between Friday and Monday.

Massif Central

As the post on X / Twitter shows, the Massif Central has not had the best of winters for snow so far. But between 30cm and 50cm is expected in Le Lioran by Monday. 

READ ALSO ‘So many barriers since Brexit’: The French ski businesses no longer willing to hire Brits

SHOW COMMENTS