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DISCOVER SWEDEN

Six irresistible autumn foods that make the most of Sweden’s produce

It's autumn and that means the weather is changing in Sweden. It's getting colder and darker, but do not despair: enjoy the abundance of tasty treats autumn has to offer.

mushrooms
Lingon, mushrooms and apples are just some of Sweden's best autumn produce. Photo: Leif R Jansson/Scanpix

1. Mushrooms

Forget about the ubiquitous portobello or button mushrooms, there’s a whole fungal world out there. The tasty, golden chanterelle (kantarell) is popular in Sweden, as is the Yellowfoot (trattkantarell) – both found in supermarkets this time of the year. Make your own chanterelle toast, wild mushroom tart or chanterelle pesto.

There are some 10,000 mushroom species in the Nordics and around 100 are edible. Get your inner outdoors person out and go foraging for mushrooms such as chanterelles, stensopp/karljohansvamp (porcino) or stolt fjällskivling (parasol mushroom) – just make sure you don’t accidentally pick anything poisonous.

Chanterelles are so popular there is even a word in Swedish for a place in the forest where a lot of them grow: kantarellställe. Many Swedes have a special spot they return to every year, and keep it a secret.

2. Game

Hunting is becoming more popular among women in Sweden, losing its “macho” label as an increasing number of consumers want to know first-hand where their food came from, rather than just buying meat in the supermarket.

Venison, elk and wild boar all find their way onto menus, although concern has been raised about high levels of radiation in some wild animals as a result of the Chernobyl disaster more than three decades ago. Hunting season is usually from around late August to January, depending on the animal, with the elk hunt being the most high-profile. If you’d rather buy your own meat, head to your nearest supermarket (it is usually found among the frozen foods).

There’s also reindeer meat. The semi-domesticated reindeer owned by Sami herders are not hunted, but meat from the slaughtered animals is often served as suovas in northern Sweden, smoked reindeer meat.

If you’d rather not eat meat at all, don’t worry, the rest of the food in this list is vegetarian.

3. Berries

The berry season lasts until late September, but you may be able to find some left in stores even later if you are lucky. Try Swedish bilberries (blåbär, which literally means blueberries but are smaller and more tart than the North American blueberries), blackberries (björnbär), raspberries (hallon), cloudberries (hjortron) – or even better, lingonberries.

Forget about that sweet gooey stuff you get with your meatballs at Ikea, buy fresh (or frozen) lingonberries in the store in Sweden and make your own sweetened lingonberries – it’s easy and delicious.

Cloudberries grow in moorlands in northern Sweden, but bilberries can easily be found and picked in forests in central Sweden, even in or near Stockholm and its suburbs.

4. Apples

As we’ve mentioned before, autumn means the apples are ripe for harvest, which means it’s time for äppelmust (cloudy apple juice), äppelpaj (apple pie), äppelmos (apple sauce) and äppelcider (apple cider). In years with an abundance of apples, it is not uncommon to see free help-yourself boxes outside people’s houses.

True apple enthusiasts should visit Kivik in southern Sweden which is known for its apple production and even organises an annual apple market with apple art. Try making southern Swedish apple crumble.

5. Root vegetables

Autumn is the best season for root vegetables (rotfrukter), with supermarket vegetable sections packed full of carrots (morot), potatoes (potatis), swedes (kålrot), parsnips (palsternacka), beetroot (rödbetor) and many more. They are cheap and make for hearty and tasty dinners. Mash them, or add them to a gratin or a stew.

6. Cinnamon buns

We’ve saved the best for last. National Cinnamon Bun Day (October 4th) was invented in 1999 when Sweden’s Hembakningsrådet (‘Home Baking Council’) tried to think of ways to celebrate the organisation’s 40th anniversary and announced the introduction of an annual feast day. It turns out they perfectly gauged the tastes of a nation, so the day caught on quickly and is today honoured (or exploited, depending on how much of a cynic you are) by shops, cafés and bakeries all over the country every October 4th.

But don’t worry, you can still eat (and make) cinnamon buns even after October 4th.

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MALMÖ

Hip, swanky and relaxed: Five wine bars to try in Malmö

Malmö in southern Sweden may be more well known for cheap falafel than upmarket wine bars, but that doesn't mean there's nowhere in the city for you to enjoy a glass (or two...).

Hip, swanky and relaxed: Five wine bars to try in Malmö

Julie

This wine bar in the Gamla Väster neighbourhood – Malmö’s old town – specialises in natural wines, always offering at least 16 still wines, alongside other specialty wines like pet nats, champagne and sherry.

They offer wines by the bottle, with a smaller number of wines available by the glass, with seasonal alcohol-free options available. Food-wise, they do cheese and charcuterie alongside small plates based on locally produced ingredients – look out for their supper clubs with local chefs.

They don’t take reservations with exceptions for special events, like supper clubs, wine tastings or similar.

Although it has the feel of a specialty wine shop, Swedish alcohol laws mean that Julie can’t sell bottles for you to take home, so you’ll have to enjoy their wines on-site. Luckily, you can take home their cheeses and charcuterie.

Prices vary widely depending on the wine. Glasses start at around 65 kronor with food costing around 150-450 kronor.

Address: Tegelgårdsgatan 9

Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 4pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 11.30am-10pm

 
 
 
 
 
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Freja

Freja is a cafe and wine bar in the upmarket Davidshall neighbourhood just off the main shopping street. It opens at 9am (alcohol served from 11am), making it a great place for coffee and breakfast, lunch, or dinner and wine in the evening.

During the warmer months, they have an outdoor serving area on the Davidshall square.

They offer a handful of wines by the glass – reds, whites, orange and rosé, many of which are natural wines – with more on offer by the bottle. 

In terms of food, they do simple small plates, such as focaccia with burrata, mortadella and pistachio pesto, filled almond croissants or avocado toast with Danish Vesterhav cheese. Owner Agnes Hansson’s family own a farm around 40 kilometres east of Malmö in Skåne, where much of the cafe’s produce comes from.

Expect to pay between 80 and 160 kronor for a small plate, slightly less for snacks or desserts.

Address: Davidshallstorg 9

Opening hours: Tues 9am-4pm, Weds-Thurs 9am-9pm, Friday 9am-11pm, Saturday 9am-9pm, Sunday 9am-4pm

 
 
 
 
 
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Aster

This hip wine bar in Varvsstaden in Västra Hamnen may be more well known for its seasonal cocktails and natural wines – many of which are European – but it’s worth a trip for the food, too.

Aster won three awards at the Malmö Gastronomy Awards when it opened in 2021, and it’s easy to see why. There’s a wood-fired oven and grill in the open kitchen, with ingredients often sourced from the restaurant’s own garden.

The menu changes seasonally, and at the time of writing it included dishes such as smoked lamb ribs with kimchi and homegrown veg, grilled halibut with greens served with a white wine and crayfish sauce, as well as veggie dishes with grilled pumpkin, cannellini beans and oyster mushroom.

Expect to pay around 50-100 kronor for nibbles, 150-195 kronor for small dishes, 275-300 kronor for large plates (or 995 kronor for an 800g dry aged sirloin steak). Desserts 75-115 kronor.

Address: Jagaregatan 6

Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 5pm-11:30pm, Friday noon-midnight, Saturday 4pm-midnight

 
 
 
 
 
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Far i Hatten

This charming little restaurant in the middle of Folkets Park started life as a park restaurant with an outdoor dance floor in the late 1800s. 

It’s a strange place in some ways – it’s the perfect place to go for pizza and ice cream with children during the day, situated right next to a huge playground, but at night it transforms into a bustling bar and nightclub with a surprisingly long wine list.

Again, they have a long list of natural wines on offer, but there’s so much to choose from that you’re sure to find something you like no matter your tastes.

The dance floor is still very much in use, too – Far i Hatten hosts regular events and concerts, both for children during the day and for adults later on towards the evening.

Address: Folkets Park 2, Amiralsgatan 35

Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 5pm-11pm, Fri 4pm-1am, Sat noon-1am, Sun noon-8am

 
 
 
 
 
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MJ’s

MJ’s is technically a hotel (it was even crowned Sweden’s Leading Boutique Hotel for 2024), but they have a gorgeous covered indoor courtyard where you can enjoy brunch, lunch or dinner along with a glass of wine from their 11-page wine menu. 

This is sorted not only by type of wine (red, white, rosé, champagne, rosé champagne, cremant and pet nats), but also by country, with organic wines, natural wines, and skin contact wines all marked on the menu.

You can enjoy their wines alongside simple snacks – olives and almonds or a small cheese or charcuterie board – or larger dishes like beef tartare, asparagus with lumpfish roe or haddock sashimi. They also have a number of vegetarian options.

They also have a bar area (The Lobby Bar) which do cocktails and DJ sets on the weekend, and a speakeasy bar (Lillies) open on Friday and Saturday nights. 

Address: Mäster Johansgatan 13 (entrance to Lillies on Isak Slaktaregatan 5)

Opening hours: Restaurant: Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30am-1:30pm, Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm. Saturdays 1pm-10pm, Sundays noon-3pm. Lillies: Fri-Sat 8pm-1am

 
 
 
 
 
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