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SWEDISH

Swedish recipe: How to make warm goats’ cheese salad with cranberries

Food writer John Duxbury shares his recipe for a Swedish sweet and cheesy salad, perfect for the summertime.

Swedish recipe: How to make warm goats' cheese salad with cranberries
Warm goats' cheese salad with cranberries. Photo: John Duxbury/Swedish Food

Swedes produce some wonderful goats’ cheeses and often serve them in warm salads. Although it is hard to buy Swedish goats’ cheeses outside of Sweden this salad works well with any soft goats’ cheese.

The use of dried cranberries and maple syrup in the dressing makes the salad quite sweet, but as a small starter it is perfect for entertaining especially for anyone with a slightly sweet tooth.

*Although the Swedish for cranberries is tranbär many Swedes now refer to them as cranberries, so some young Swedes wouldn't even know what tranbär look like!

Summary

Makes: 2 Servings

Preparation: 25 Minutes

Cooking: 10 Minutes

Ingridients

Goats' cheese balls

20g (1/3 cup) dried breadcrumbs, preferably panko

2 tbsp fresh parsley, finely chopped salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 egg, mixed with 1 tbsp of water

100g (4 oz) soft goats´heese

2tbsp sunflower oil

Salad and dressing

20g (1/3 cup) dried breadcrumbs, preferably panko

60g (1/4 cup) shallots, diced

1 tbsp light olive oil

2 tbsp white wine vinegar

1 tbsp maple syrup (or use honey if you prefer)

60 ml (1/4 cup) extra virgin olive oil, salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

50g (1 1/2 cups) salad leaves, washed

2 tbsp dried cranberries

Method

1. Mix the breadcrumbs, parsley, salt and pepper in a small bowl.

2. Put the egg mixture in another bowl.

3. Cut the cheese into six and roll each piece into a small ball.

4. Dip the balls into the egg mixture and then into the breadcrumbs, ensuring that each ball is evenly coated. Cover and chill for at least an hour.

5. Meanwhile heat a small frying pan over a medium high heat. When hot add the pinenuts and toast for 2 minutes, shaking regularly, until golden brown. Transfer to a dish and set aside.

6. Heat 1 tablespoon of light olive oil and sauté the shallots slowly until soften and golden brown.

7. Add the vinegar and maple syrup and reduce for a minute or so.

8. Remove from the heat and whisk in 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

9. When ready to serve, toss the salad leaves in half the dressing and divide between 2 serving plates.

10. Heat 2 tablespoons of sunflower oil in a frying pan over a medium high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the goats’ cheese balls and brown them evenly (3-4 minutes).

11. Place the cooked goats’ cheese balls on each plate of salad and sprinkle over the dried cranberries, toasted pinenuts and the remaining dressing. Serve immediately.

Tips

– Everything can be prepared in advance up to the end of step 8, leaving the dish to be finished off when required.

– Use panko breadcrumbs if possible for a crispier coating – you will probably find them in the Japanese foods section of your supermarket.

Recipe courtesy of John Duxbury, founder and editor of Swedish Food.

FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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