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Dancing devils and egg olympics: Nine of Italy’s most curious Easter festivals

You might imagine an Italian Easter revolves around going to mass, exchanging chocolate eggs and sitting down to roast lamb. But there's more to it than that.

Dancing devils and egg olympics: Nine of Italy's most curious Easter festivals
Photo: LuckyTD/Depositphotos

READ ALSO: The essential guide to an Italian Easter

In towns and cities across the country, Easter celebrations involve quirky traditions of sometimes mysterious origins. 

Here are some of the strangest, which you should definitely try to check out if you find yourself in Italy for Easter.

Puppet burning

Photo: AntonioGravante/DepositPhotos

On the southern heel of Italy, around Gallipoli, puppets are hung from balconies all over town at the start of Lent, representing a witch – known as La Caremma – traditionally dressed all in black. She might be holding a spindle or an orange as a symbol of abstinence and frugality during the 40-day period, and is usually decorated with seven feathers, one for each Sunday of Lent.

On Easter Sunday, the puppets are burnt in a symbolic gesture to drive out bad spirits and welcome back Christ.

Cheese rolling


Video: Janelle Gistelli/YouTube

Known in Italian as ruzzolone, cheese rolling is a traditional game played across the regions of Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna, Umbria, Abruzzo, Marche, Lazio and Campania.

Though the origins of the tradition are unknown, many towns still hold contests at Easter. The primary objective is to roll a wheel of well-seasoned cheese as far as you can.

Egg Olympics


Video: Riccardo Paolini/YouTube

The Palio dell'uovo is an annual competition held between the four suburbs of Tredozio in Emilia-Romagna. The contest involves a number of events, all of which involve eggs. 

Favourites include a timed race to find eggs hidden in haystacks, egg throwing contests and egg races – both eating as many eggs as you can, and running as far as you can without smashing your egg. The men compete each Easter Sunday while the women do battle on Easter Monday.

Surprisingly, this is a fairly modern tradition: the contest was first held in 1964.

Dancing devils


Photo: LuckyTD/DepositPhotos

In the Sicilian town of Prizzi, near Palermo, a strange and somewhat pagan tradition takes place on the morning of Easter Sunday and is known as the Dance of the Devils, or Il ballo dei diavoli.

Two masked devils wearing red and a figure in yellow representing death dance through the town bothering strangers. They will only leave their victims alone if they are offered money or something to eat.

One-armed tree lifting


Video: Salvatore Machì/YouTube

In the Sicilian coastal town of Terrasini the annual Easter celebration, La festa di li schietti, sees the town's men take it in turns to lift a freshly felled orange tree, weighing around 50 kilos, above their head – using just one arm.

Whoever manages to hold the tree aloft for the longest time wins the contest, which dates back to the mid-1800s.

Hard-boiled egg smashing


Video: Associazione Giochi Antichi/YouTube

Punta e cul is an ancient Easter game played in Urbino, Marche.

During the game, a circle of contestants take it in turns to smash the point of their hard-boiled eggs against the point of the egg of the person next to them in the circle. If they manage to break the shell of their opponent's egg with their strike they get to keep it as a prize.

Obviously, a broken hard-boiled egg is a pretty poor prize these days but the game dates back to a time when eggs were more valuable.

An exploding cart


Photo: Tiziana Fabi/AFP

Lo scoppio del carro is an old Florentine tradition in which a cart filled with fireworks is wheeled around the city until it rests in front of the famous Duomo.

Then, the cardinal of Florence uses an ancient piece of flint dating back to the crusades to light a torch, which is in turn used to light a fuse attached to the cart and set off the fireworks.

A racing Madonna


Video: rete5tv/YouTube

How do you liven up an Easter procession of a statue of Immaculate Mary?

By sprinting with it as fast as you can, obviously. At least that's what happens each Easter Sunday in Sulmona, Abruzzo, during the procession of La Madonna che scappa (“the Madonna runs away”).

As the procession reaches the main square, the statue of the Madonna is marched in, where it 'sees' a statue of the resurrected Jesus on the opposite side. The statue bearers then begin to sprint towards it as fast as they can – the idea is to represent Mary's excitement as she realizes her son really is alive.

As they begin their sprint, the Madonna's black cloak of mourning falls off, a cloud of doves are released and firecrackers explode for dramatic effect.

Egg boules


Screengrab: Walter Bier/YouTube – watch the video here.  

The games of Il Truc, played at Cividale del Friuli, in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of northern Italy, is a medieval version of bowls played using painted eggs.

But instead of being tossed, the eggs are rolled down a ramp into a pit lined with fine gravel. The objective of the game is to roll your egg into the other eggs in the pit to score points. Egg-citing stuff.

READ ALSO: 12 Italian Easter foods you have to try at least once

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TRAVEL NEWS

Traffic jams and sold-out trains: the latest on Easter travel in Sweden

Easter is probably the busiest time of the year for travel within Sweden. Here's the latest on how to travel safely and where you might face delayed trains or ugly traffic jams.

Traffic jams and sold-out trains: the latest on Easter travel in Sweden

Travelling by rail

If you haven’t already booked your ticket, you may find it difficult to get a seat on some popular routes. 

“Some routes are already fully booked. This is particularly the case between the major cities,” Anders Edgren, a press officer for the national train company SJ, told state broadcaster SVT.

A screenshot of SJ’s booking site for Good Friday shows most morning trains between Malmö and Stockholm are already sold out.
 
Edgren said on Thursday morning that there were still a few seats left between Stockholm and Gothenburg and Stockholm and Sundsvall but that they were selling out fast. 
 
 
“What we’re trying to do is to double-up trains, which is to stick together two trains, and if we manage to do that we might be able to release some more tickets.” 

Sweden’s national rail company SJ often schedules engineering work for national holidays, as fewer people are travelling to work, and this easter there will be engineering work at around 20 sites across the country, meaning more than 1,000 trains will be partly or totally replaced with buses during the Easter break. 

The worst areas are on the routes between Gothenburg and Malmö, between Västerås and Stockholm, and between Karlstad and Växjö. Work on the new Västkustbanan will mean replacement buses between Helsingborg and Gothenburg throughout the Easter holidays. 

SJ has made a map showing all the routes where you can expect interruptions: 

Traffic interruptions over Easter: 

Karlstad C to Kristinehamn: 10pm April 14th to 5am April 19th 

Gothenburg going north and south: 10.35pm April 14th to 2pm April 18th

Varberg to Heberg: 2pm April 14th to 2pm April 19th 14

Ängelholm Helsingborg: 12am April 4th to April 25th 4.15am 

Frövi to Kumla: 10pm April 14th to 5am April 19th 

Skymossen to Motala: 12am April 14th to 5am April 19th

Stockholm Central platforms 3 to 7: 10pm April 14th to 10pm April 21st 

Huvudsta – Barkarby: 1.10am April 14th to 4.30am April 19th 

Travelling by car 

In its guide to travelling by car over Easter, the Swedish Transport Agency warns that weather conditions at this time of year can vary enormously as you drive north.  You may find, for instance, that you need winter snow tyres by the time you reach your destination, even seemed almost summery when you set out. You should also make sure you have clothing for all seasons. 

Here is the agency’s maps of roads which it expects to see heavy Easter traffic. 

A map showing which roads are expected to be busy over the Easter period. Photo: Swedish Transport Agency
These include: 

The E22 between Kalmar and Norrköping, the E4 between Norrköping and Stockholm, and then from Stockholm all the way up to Sundsvall.  The roads leading towards the ski areas around Sälen and Östersund also tend to get crowded. None of the roads in Skåne are expected to see heavy traffic. 

The Swedish Transport Agency has imposed a ban on overtaking on the E4 between Gävle och Tönnebro, on the 14th and 14th of April for travel in a northerly direction, and on the 17th and 18th of April travelling south. 

The agency also recommends choosing roads with central reservations and speed cameras, as these are safer, even if this might mean a slower journey. Here is the agency’s map of roads with central reservations.

Flights

If you’re coming to Sweden by air, you should be aware that companies have been cancelling a high number of flights in recent days, because many of their staff have Covid.

EasyJet and British Airways cancelled more than 80 scheduled flights on Thursday, blaming staff sickness. 

Airports

If your flight is running as scheduled, be aware of issues at several UK airports.

Airports including Heathrow, Manchester and Birmingham have been hit by disruption because of staff shortages caused by Covid, affecting everything from airport security to luggage handlers. Passengers risked missing their flights because of lengthy delays, according to reports in the UK press. 

Passport queues at Heathrow Terminal 2, from where SAS flies to Stockholm, were ‘stretching to 90 minutes’ on Maundy Thursday, The Independent reported. 

Passengers have been advised to make sure they are at the airport as early as possible to allow for delays, and unions have warned that the disruption could last for some time.

In the case of Manchester, the advice last week was to arrive three hours early.

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