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Why slow-burn Lausanne is a place you grow to love

From its creative vibe to its lakeside location, here’s why Greek freelance writer Rania Margari thinks her adopted city of Lausanne is a great place to live.

Why slow-burn Lausanne is a place you grow to love
Photo: Swiss Tourism
Lausanne may not be a city you instantly fall in love with, but it has the power to grow on you, and one day you suddenly wake up and realize there are so many reasons to love living here. That’s what happened me at least. So here’s why I think Lausanne is a great place to be. 
 
It’s easy to live in
 
Chilling out at Ouchy. Photo: The Local
 
With a compact town center – which nevertheless has some ruthless uphill roads, as the whole city is built on three hills – and an amazing lake promenade stretching all the way from Pully and Ouchy port to the residential area of Saint Sulpice and beyond, there are countless possibilities for walks.
 
Around the city, green parks abound, offering some stunning views of the Alps and Lake Geneva: my favorite panoramic spots are Lac Sauvabelin, Esplanade de Montbenon, Parc de Milan and the botanical gardens, plus Le Denantou Parc near the Olympic Museum, right next to the lake.  In summer every single park is packed and having a picnic next to the lake with friends and family becomes an all-day ritual. 
 
Festivals such as Festival de la Cité and Lausanne Estivale, during which the city becomes a big open-air music and theatre show, help make the city an enticing place to be in summer. 
 
Its architecture is a pleasing mix of old and modern 
 
Lausanne's pretty Place de la Palud includes the city hall. Photo: Christof Schuerpf/Swiss Tourism 
 
Lausanne has some stunning buildings spread around the city. In fact, there are 46 buildings and sites listed as Swiss Heritage sites of national significance, such as the Casino de Montbenon and the city hall. Naturally, there are also a few modern, blunt buildings but for the moment they are in the minority.
 
La Cité, the Old Town below the cathedral as well as the neighborhoods spreading from the train station down to the lake are particularly charming. I often find myself walking around avenues Grancy and Frédéric-César de La Harpe admiring Lausanne’s fine architecture.
 
But I love the modern face of the city as well, such as Le Flon with its restaurants, cafés and shops including my favorite, vintage furniture shop La Malle au Trésor.
 
Modern architecture is represented by such gems as the Rolex Learning Center, a university study centre located on the campus of science and technology university École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL), which is open not only to students but also to the public. I often like to take my guests there for a tour.
 
 
It's family-friendly
 
Ouchy is a great place for families. Photo: Rania Margari
 
Having recently acquired a baby boy joining me on my adventures around Lausanne, I have started to notice how kid-friendly the city is. Going for walks is such a pleasure since access is easy with elevators and ramps almost everywhere. The challenge of going uphill is solved by taking public transport, which is free for kids up to six years old. There are also plenty of kids’ corners in various shops and cafes. My favorite so far is Culture Café inside FNAC. 
 
“I appreciate the ludotheques here where you can rent quality toys, bikes, instruments, costumes, games (for kids and adults) for as little as one franc for a month,” says Karin Ling, an expat mother of two.
 
“We also love the toy markets that pop up twice a year in different neighborhoods where children and their families sell their used toys super cheap. Because of how expensive things can be in Switzerland, my husband and I get as excited about the second hand toys as our kids do.” 
 
It has a thriving gastro scene
 
Lausanne's food truck festival in Riponne was a big success in 2016 and returns in June this year. Photo: Rania Margari
 
It’s hardly Lyon or San Sebastian but the gastronomy in Lausanne is quite diverse.
 
Its celebrated each summer in the Lausanne à Table festival,  which includes a vast array of foodie events. From May to September, there are visits to the city’s chocolate artisans, guided gourmet walks, farm visits, workshops for kids, unusual dining experiences, a lively food truck festival, and a massive picnic, all of which turns the city into a gourmet oasis. 
 
Street food is also gaining in popularity, as is the case across the country. Over the last few years Riponne has become a centerpiece for street food vendors and on a sunny day there is nothing better than eating your Lebanese lunch or sweet crepe amidst the buzz here. That’s where you’ll also find coffee trucks including Rush and Sydney, which serve killer espressos, flat whites and hot chocolates.  
 
Microbreweries are booming as well. Two local ones, La Nébuleuse and Docteur Gab’s, have experienced big demand for their craft beers which can now be found in numerous bars and restaurants around Lausanne. Sample those and many other  craft beers at Pi Bar.
 
It's young, creative and dynamic 
 
EPFL helps create a young, dynamic vibe in the city. Photo: Lausanne Tourism
 
The presence of EPFL, the University of Lausanne and the hotel school École Hôtelier de Lausanne (EHL) means there are tons of students in the city. These institutions play a pivotal role in the city’s vibrant energy,  attracting people who are curious, international-minded and have a willingness to learn, grow and embrace the new. You can feel that by a simple visit to EPFL’s premises.
 
This youthful creativity has helped fuel a recent boom in crowd-funded spaces such as Ta Cave wine bar, Mood Café and Crazy Wolf burger restaurant.
 
“In the last few years many entrepreneurial initiatives have been launched across Lausanne, from design studios to cafés and co-working spaces,” says Géraldine Morand, founder of the design blog withatouchofseasalt.com.
 
“All these projects, led with talent and passion, keep inspiring and enabling more and more people to reinvent the city they live in. As Lausanne isn’t too big, global ideas meet local insights and this unique combination gives the city its own creative vibe.”
 
Alex Barakat from Crazy Wolf thinks Lausanne’s diverse, international population makes creating a trendy restaurant, bar or theatre show easier. “As crowdfunding requires engagement from the local inhabitants, Lausanne is a good city in which to launch a crowdfunded project, as long as it is well-designed, attractive and that locals can identify with the project and the team behind it,” he says.
 
The great outdoors is on your doorstep
 
The beautiful vineyards of Lavaux are on the doorstep. Photo: Marcus Gyger/Swiss Tourism
 
Lausanne’s location is a winner: firstly, it’s a grape’s throw from the Lavaux, the Unesco World Heritage vineyards next to Lake Geneva. That’s a great place to escape city life, walking or biking among the vineyards and the quaint, medieval villages with their spectacular views and wine cellars.
 
There are also numerous ski resorts nearby for skiing in winter or hiking in summer. Portes du Soleil, Villars and Chamonix, to name just a few, are all easily reachable for a day excursion or a weekend recharge. 
 
Lastly, being in the centre of Europe means you can drive to various European destinations like Italy, France, Germany and Austria, while Lausanne’s proximity to Geneva airport means it’s easy to discover further-flung destinations. Weekend in Iceland anyone? 
 
Follow Rania's travels on mygreektravellingspoon.com

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TRAVEL

Explore Austria: Mauer, a charming wine-hiking spot on Vienna’s outskirts

Catch the very tail-end of the wine season and autumn foliage in one of the lesser-explored corners of the Austrian capital: Mauer.

Explore Austria: Mauer, a charming wine-hiking spot on Vienna’s outskirts
Beautiful views and cosy taverns await you on the edge of Vienna. Photo: Catherine Edwards

Wine-hiking is an autumn must-do in Austria. There’s the official Wine Hiking Day (Weinwandertag) that usually draws in big crowds, but it’s also possible to follow the routes through beautiful scenery and wine taverns on your own.

Mauer in the southwest of Vienna is one of the routes that is mostly frequented by locals.


The footpath takes you through scenic vineyards. Photo: Catherine Edwards

You can reach this part of the 23rd district using Vienna’s public transport, and you have a few options. From the Hietzing station on the U4 line, you can take the tramline 60 or bus 56A. The former will take you either to Mauer’s central square or you can get off earlier at Franz-Asenbauer-Gasse to start the hike. If it’s too early in the day for wine just yet, you could start your day at the small and charming Designo cafe (Geßlgasse 6).

Otherwise, the residential area itself doesn’t have much to see, but keep an eye out as you wander between the taverns later — there are some beautiful buildings.

To start the hike, head west along Franz-Asenbauer Gasse, which will take you up into the vineyards, growing some red wine and Vienna’s specialty Gemischter Satz or ‘field blend’, which as the name suggests is a mixture of different types of grapes.

Photo: Catherine Edwards

The paved road takes a left turn, but the hiking route follows a smaller path further upwards. Here you’ll have magnificent views over the whole of Vienna.

If you stick to the official hiking route (see a map from Weinwandern here) you can keep the whole route under 5 kilometres. But more adventurous types don’t need to feel limited.

You can also follow the Stadtwanderweg 6 route (see a map here) either in full, which will add on a hefty 13 kilometres, or just in part, and venture further into the Mauerwald. If you do this, one spot to aim for is the Schießstätte, a former hunting lodge offering hearty Austrian meals.

EXPLORE AUSTRIA

In any case, you should definitely take a small detour to see the Wotrubakirche, an example of brutalist architecture from the mid-1970s built on a site that was used as a barracks during the Second World War.

Not far from the church is the Pappelteich, a small pond that is not only an important habitat for local flora and fauna, but a popular picnic spot for hikers. Its only water supply is from the rain, and due to climate change the pond has almost dried out in recent years, prompting the city to take action to boost its water supply by adding a permanent pipe.


The church is made up of over 150 concrete blocks. Photo: Catherine Edwards

What you really come to Mauer for, though, are the Heuriger or Viennese wine taverns. 

The most well-known is Edlmoser (Maurer Lange Gasse 123) which has previously been named as the best in Vienna. Note that it’s not open all year so check the website, but in 2021 it should be open between November 5th and 21st, and is also serving the goose that is a popular feature on Viennese menus this time of year.

Tip for translating Heuriger opening times: look for the word ausg’steckt, which is used by those taverns which aren’t open year round. They will also often show that they’re open by attaching a bunch of green twigs to the sign or front door.


Buschenschank Grausenburger. Photo: Catherine Edwards

Also worth visiting are cosy Buschenschank Grausenburger (Maurer Lange Gasse 101a), Heuriger Wiltschko (Wittgensteinstrasse 143 — located near the start of the hiking route, this is a good place to begin your tour) and Heuriger Fuchs-Steinklammer (Jesuitensteig 28).

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