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BASELWORLD

Slump in luxury watch exports casts shadow over Baselworld

The world's biggest watch fair will open in Switzerland this week, even as slumping exports of luxury Swiss timepieces appear to dash hopes of a market rebound.

Slump in luxury watch exports casts shadow over Baselworld
Photo: Astrid Stawiarz/Getty Images North America/AFP
Global exports of Swiss watches slid ten percent in February to 1.5 billion Swiss francs ($1.5 billion, 1.4 billion euros), the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FHS) said on Tuesday.
   
The news cast a shadow over the looming Baselworld trade fair, which opens its doors to the media on Wednesday and to the public a day later.
   
The giant gathering in the northern Swiss city of Basel is the highlight of the year for watch and jewellery makers, with hoards of retailers looking to fill their showcases with pricey bling.
   
Investors had been hoping this year's 45th edition would open on a more positive note amid signs that the market was stabilizing and even on the verge of a rebound after two years of deep crisis.
   
Citigroup analyst Thomas Chauvet described Tuesday's export numbers as a “reality check”.
   
He said the figures showed there was “no underlying improvement” in the industry, despite a more “upbeat mood” from senior watch executives, and a more optimistic tone from the FHS in its January release.
   
Exports to Hong Kong, the biggest market for Swiss watches, slumped 12.1 percent last month.
   
And exports to the United States, the second biggest market, plunged 26.2 percent.
   
Most European markets also fell, and sales to Japan tumbled 17.3 percent.
   
Exports to China, however, rose 6.7 percent year-on-year in February.
   
That represents some much-needed good news for the industry — China was the main driver of several years of euphoric growth for Swiss watches, with Chinese consumers' thirst for luxury goods sparking a production boom.
   
But the market suffered a severe hit after Beijing in 2013 began cracking down on corruption by banning extravagant gifts like expensive watches to public officials.
   
And since then the storm clouds have multiplied, with the pro-democracy Umbrella protests in Hong Kong also chipping away at sales, followed by a range of deadly terrorist attacks in European cities frightening off luxury-seeking Asian tourists.
   
In 2016, Swiss watch exports shrank 9.9 percent, after contracting 3.3 percent a year earlier.
   
But in recent months, there were some indications the market was stabilizing.
   
Exports to China gradually inched back into positive terrain during the second half of 2016, and a number of markets around the world put on a healthy glow during the holiday season at the end of the year.
   
Watch makers themselves have also been making increasingly soothing sounds about the health of the market and justifying production hikes.
   
Swatch Group chief Nick Hayek told reporters last week that he was now aiming for “healthy growth”, driven particularly by China's growing middle class, which he said once again appeared hungry for consumption.
   
With such uncertainty, Baselworld, which each year draws around 1,500 exhibitors and some 150,000 visitors, should help gauge the actual state of the luxury watch market.

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LUXURY

Swiss watch exports tick ahead nicely in April

Exports of Swiss watches rose nearly 14 percent year on year in April, trade figures showed on Tuesday, aided by strong demand from prime market Hong Kong.

Swiss watch exports tick ahead nicely in April
A giant screen at the stand of Swiss watchmaker Patek Philippe on the eve of the opening of the 2018 Baselworld watch and jewellery show in March. Photo: AFP

“After a relatively calm March, growth moved ahead strongly in April,” the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry said, noting exports for the first four months of the year rose 11 percent on the same period of 2017 to 6.7 billion Swiss francs (€5.8 billion, $6.75 billion).

March growth had been tepid at 4.8 percent, down on January's 12.6 and February's 12.9.

Read also: Sufficiently Swiss – at least 60 percent for watches

April's recovery of 13.8 percent saw exports hit 1.76 billion francs, driven by a healthy 43.4 percent rise in sales – a six-year high – to Hong Kong, a lucrative Asian market hub.

Other key markets also saw large rises, with exports to China and the United States clocking up increases of 11 percent and 12.8 percent respectively.

Europe was a mixed picture with German sales up 12.8 percent but sliding 14.7 percent in Britain, continuing a recent trend as the United Kingdom wrestles with Brexit.

The global picture has been healthier since a difficult period across 2015 and 2016 saw the sector take a hit after China introduced anti-counterfeiting measures, helping knock back sales of luxury goods.

That fallow period began with 2014 sit-in street protests in Hong Kong, dubbed the Umbrella Revolution, which saw a tail-off in visitor numbers from the mainland to the territory where many Chinese do much of their luxury shopping.

Terror attacks in Europe also had an effect on the European market in hitting tourism.

Read also: Six Swiss wedding gifts fit for a prince and his bride