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FASHION

Meet the transgender model ‘fighting for a better world’ at Milan Fashion Week

Valentina Sampaio, the first transgender model to make the cover of French "Vogue", will be flying the flag for the LGBT movement at Milan fashion week.

Meet the transgender model 'fighting for a better world' at Milan Fashion Week
Valentina Sampaio in Milan. Photo: Miguel Medina/AFP

The 22-year-old Brazilian, who appeared on the cover of Elle Brazil in November and has modelled for labels such as Gisela Franck and Rchlo, is in the city to attend casting sessions in the hope of snapping up a place on the catwalk for the world's top fashion houses.

The shy, green-eyed brunette told AFP in Milan, where the autumn-winter collections go on show from Wednesday, she was “proud” of being a role model for the lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender (LGBT) community.

Her dream, she said, would be to model for the likes of Italian icon Giorgio Armani.

Sitting on a bench in the sunshine, her face lights up as she talks of the opportunities fame and fashion could bring her in the fight to combat transgender prejudice.

Photo: Miguel Medina/AFP

Sampaio, who began her modelling career in Brazil four years ago before becoming an “ambassador” for L'Oreal, said landing the coveted cover of Vogue magazine was “important because fashion is a means to stop people speaking about us with prejudice”.

While several US fashion magazines have already featured transgender models, this is a first for France.

'Valentina is Valentina'

“I want to continue fighting for a better world” where trans are considered “normal”, she says in her soft voice.

The model, who did not once use the words transsexual, transgender or the acronym LGBT in the interview, said she was was tired of those who are not heterosexual or cisgender being seen as “an anomaly”.

“Juan is Juan, Maria is Maria and Valentina is Valentina,” she said with a laugh.

Photo: Miguel Medina/AFP

Transgender is an umbrella term for people whose gender identity differs from the sex they were assigned at birth. Transsexual is an older term that is used by some people who have permanently changed – or seek to change – their bodies through medical interventions.

Sampaio, who has about 35,000 followers on Instagram, wowed the Sao Paulo fashion week in October, where she shimmied down the runways for Agua de Coco and Vitorino Campos.

'Like a little girl'

Her life could have taken a different course: she was studying architecture in Fortaleza in north Brazil when she dropped out to attend fashion courses.

The youngster thanks her parents for an upbringing which allowed her to express her gender, saying “as a little boy, I felt like a little girl”.

“I was born in Ceara in the northeast and in that small place I felt protected, because everyone knows and respects each other,” she said.


Photo: Miguel Medina/AFP

Sampaio said there were some unpleasant “incidents” at the beginning of her career, like one brand refusing to use a transgender person for its advertising campaign.

“I felt very bad, I wanted to stop working” as a model, “but in the end I realized that I liked this work and it did not stop me,” she said.

Sampaio is part of a group of Brazilian models that fights prejudice and violence against shemales – transsexuals who have both male genitalia and female secondary sex characteristics.

“The advice I can give them is to believe in themselves and not be discouraged by difficulties,” she said.

French Vogue, which features Sampaio in a plunging gold gown on the cover of the March edition, described her as a “glam standard-bearer of a cause that is on the march… in a post-gender world”.

By Kelly Velasquez

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FASHION

Paris exhibition celebrates 100 years of French Vogue

A new exhibition in Paris will tell the story of 100 years of French Vogue - from the post-war 'New Look' of Christian Dior through the sexual liberation of the 1960s to the dangling-cigarette waifs of the 2000s.

French Vogue celebrates 100 years
French Vogue celebrates 100 years. Photo: Thomas Olva/AFP

But as well as celebrating the magazine’s storied history, the exhibit comes at a time of turbulence for the publication.

Just last month, it was confirmed that its editor of 10 years, Emmanuelle Alt, was out and wouldn’t be replaced.

She was not alone.

Looking to cut costs, owner Conde Nast International has axed editors across Europe over the past year, and put international Vogue editions under the direct control of global editorial director, Anna Wintour, in New York.

New York-based Anna Wintour now has overall control of French Vogue. Photo by Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP

Like much of the media industry, Vogue is struggling with tumbling sales and ad revenue in the digital era.

But the latest twist is also part of the endless push and pull between New York and Paris going back to its early days.

“The whole history of French Vogue is one of back-and-forth with Conde Nast in New York – growing more independent for a while, then being reined back in,” said Sylvie Lecallier, curator of the new exhibition, “Vogue Paris 1920-2020″, which opened this weekend after a year’s delay due to the pandemic.

The Paris edition was often the loftier, more bohemian sibling to its more hard-nosed New York version.

But it was also the hotbed in which much of 20th century style and womenhood came to be defined.

“Paris was the place to hunt out talent and content and bring it to New York,” said Lecallier.

The exhibition charts the evolution from art deco drawings of the 1920s through the erotic image-making of photographers like Helmut Newton in the 1960s and 1970s.

Its last peak was under editor Carine Roitfeld in the 2000s, who brought back a provocative Gallic identity by ridding the newsroom of foreign staff and becoming a fashion icon in her own right.

Her successor, Alt, was a quieter presence, though she still oversaw key moments including its first transgender cover star, Brazilian Valentina Sampaio, in 2017.

But internet culture has created “a perfect storm” for Vogue, says media expert Douglas McCabe of Enders Analysis.

“The first 80 years of Vogue’s life, it had the market to itself, it was the bible for fashion,” McCabe told AFP.

“But online today, there are so many other ways to get your information. Influencers, Instagram, YouTube — everyone’s a threat.”

In a world where new fashion trends can blow up around the world in seconds, it has become much harder for a monthly magazine to set the pace.

“It’s not that they can’t survive for another 100 years — but they will be differently sized,” McCabe said.

Vogue has tried to branch out into different areas, including events.

“I used to work for a magazine, and today I work for a brand,” Alt said on the eve of French Vogue’s 1,000th issue in 2019.

But the big money was always in print, and Vogue Paris sales are dropping steadily from 98,345 in 2017 to 81,962 to 2020, according to data site ACPM.

It is perhaps unsurprising that the new top job in Paris, redefined as “head of editorial content”, went to Eugenie Trochu, who was key to building the magazine’s online presence.

She declared herself “thrilled to be part of Vogue’s international transformation”.

For the curator of the exhibition, it is ironic timing.

“We had no idea it would end like this when we started work on the exhibition,” said Lecallier.

“Who knows where it will go from here.”

The exhibition Vogue Paris 1920-2020 is at the Palais Galliera in Paris’ 16th arrondissement. The gallery is open 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Sunday and is closed on Mondays. Tickets for the exhibition are €14 (€12 for concessions and under 18s go free) and must be reserved online in advance. 

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