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FOOD AND DRINK

Europe feels pinch as Spain’s vegetable fields suffer

Vegetable lovers across Europe have been making hard choices this winter after storms battered fields in southeast Spain, the continent's main fruit and vegetable patch.

Europe feels pinch as Spain's vegetable fields suffer

Courgette prices are soaring, but shoppers are also thinking twice before shelling out for pricier tomatoes, peppers and aubergines.   

Some British supermarkets have even resorted to rationing sales of broccoli and lettuce in light of plummeting harvests.   

The vast fields along Spain's Mediterranean coast usually stay warm enough to produce year-round, even in winter.   

But torrential rains hit the region late December, followed by shock snowfalls in January – areas near Murcia, in the heart of the farming zones, had not seen a snowflake in 34 years.

For most of the year, Spain supplies around 30 percent of the main fresh fruits and vegetables on European shelves. In winter, this proportion rises to half – and to a whopping 80 percent when it comes to lettuce.

After the bad weather hit, a Spanish federation of agricultural exporters reported a 30-percent drop in European shipments. The COAG farmers' union says output has halved in the worst-hit regions.

Some farmers “have lost their entire crop”, said Andres Gongora, COAG'S Almeria director.

The province of Murcia, which exports two-thirds of Spanish lettuce, a trade worth €423 million ($450 million), has been particularly hit.   Young lettuces, growing in open fields after sprouting from seeds in greenhouses, were destroyed. After the foul weather receded, a thick coat of thawed mud held up replanting in many places.  

“We won't be able to plant here this year,” said Javier Soto, manager of spinach and melon growers Agrar Systems near the town of Murcian town of Torre Pacheo, pointing to a field gouged out by a muddy torrent.

Adding to the veggie crunch has been heavy snowfall in northern Italy, another major supplier to Europe.

Thousands of growers there have lost their crops, with expected losses of to around €400 million euros, according to Italy's main farmers' union.

Luxury lettuce

The double whammy is now being felt in European stores.

Lettuce prices have doubled in Germany, and even tripled in Finland. In France, courgettes fetched four to five times their normal price in mid-January.

Spanish supplies of iceberg, romaine and other types of lettuce had already been hit by a dry autumn, and artichoke harvests had fallen by a fourth.    

Many shoppers have vented their anger on social media, using hashtags like #lettucecrisis and #courgettecrisis.  

Laureano Montesinos, a marketing director at Fruveg, a producer near Murcia, said British supermarket chains had not immediately grasped how dire the situation was.

In Germany and northern Europe, produce stalls are not as packed as usual, but stores have managed to avoid drastic measures.  

“We've had some supply problems with iceberg lettuce these past weeks. But until now, we've been able to offer enough for our clients”, said Kirsten Gess, communications director for the Aldi-Sud discount chain.

Spain's agriculture minister expects production to recover in a few weeks, with producers aiming to be back on track by early March.    

But for lettuce grown in open fields, the wait could extend into April.    

For Alan Clarke, a strategist at Scotiabank in London, the price increases could spill over into processed food products, such as veggie burgers and other ready-to-eat meals.

“More generally, restaurant prices face upside risks, especially because spring/summer menus are due for imminent update”, he added.    

So even though higher produce prices may prove short-lived once Spain's harvests recover, diners may be paying the bill for months.

By AFP's Emmanuelle Michel

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FOOD AND DRINK

Why do they pour cider like that in Spain’s Asturias?

The green northern region’s drink of choice is cider but it’s the method waiters have of pouring it from a great height that catches the attention of ‘out-ciders’.

Why do they pour cider like that in Spain's Asturias?

They say Asturian blood is 50 percent water and 50 percent cider, and given the 40 million bottles produced every year in the region, it doesn’t seem too hard to believe.

However, it’s the method of serving cider in Asturias which really captures the imagination. 

The bottle will either come attached to a contraption which sucks up the cider and splurts it into a wide but thin-rimmed glass.

Or the waiter will come out every few minutes to grab your bottle and glass, lift the former high up with one arm and the latter down low around waist height before pouring some of the cider into the glass from at an arm’s length. 

There’s even a verb for this action – escanciar – to decant.  

The objective is for the cider to be shaken and aerated so that its natural carbon dioxide ‘awakens’.

When it is poured from above and hits the glass, carbon dioxide bubbles are produced that make the aroma of the cider come alive.

It’s good and normal for there to be splashback when pouring Asturian cider, but the aim is still to get most of it in the glass. (Photo by MIGUEL RIOPA / AFP)

These bubbles go away quickly so once served, the customer should quickly drink the culín (small bottom) up in one swig. 

The action of escanciar imitates how cider would be traditionally served when it went directly from big oak barrels to the glass, as cider has been the drink of choice in Asturians since before Roman times. 

READ ALSO: Why Spaniards’ habit of drinking alcohol every day is surprisingly healthy

This is after all natural cider which doesn’t come with the sugar, additives and pre-carbonated mixes of brands such as Strongbow, Magners or Kopparberg.

“It took me some time to get the hang of pouring cider, I missed the mark a lot, and my arm used to get very tired at first,” a Latin American waitress at a bar in Gijón told The Local Spain. 

Many sidrerías (cider houses) and restaurants have cylindrical tubes on wheels where escanciadores (the waiters in charge of pouring cider) can put the glass in to avoid making a mess on the floor or splashing customers, as there is always some splatter even if they don’t completely miss the mark. 

A waiter pours cider for customers at a cider bar in the northern Spanish city of Oviedo (Photo by RAFA RIVAS / AFP)

The more old-school chigres (cider house in Asturian) prefer to have sawdust all over the floor to absorb the spilt cider.

To pour, tirar (throw) or escanciar (decant) cider like an Asturian, you should tilt the bottle slowly from above and aim for the cider to hit the top part of the inside side of the glass, which has to be held at a 45-degree angle. It’s this that brings out the effervescence out in la sidra natural.  

So when you visit the beautiful region of Asturias and you tuck into their famously ample servings of fabada asturiana (Asturian bean stew) or cachopo (meat, cheese and ham all together in breadcrumbs), washed down with one or two bottles of sidra, now you’ll understand what’s behind this eye-catching tradition.

READ ALSO: Eight fascinating facts about Spain’s Asturias region

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