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Art springs from ruins of Rome’s industrial past

The ruins of a landmark industrial building in Rome have become home to a thought-provoking art project that casts an unflattering light on the capital's patchy record on urban regeneration.

Art springs from ruins of Rome's industrial past
A man stands near a makeshift camp in the ruins of the ex Mira Lanza factory. Photo: Alberto Pizzoli/AFP
Sections of the abandoned shell of the Mira Lanza, once a factory where soap was first produced in Italy, are now home to a collection of works created by Seth, a French street artist who camped, illegally, on the rubbish-strewn site for two months last year.
 
Now looked after by a group of ethnic Roma migrants, who have set up camp inside the ruins, the paintings and installations created from the on-site debris are already starting to decay.
 
And that is exactly the point, according to Stefano Antonelli, a director of 999Contemporary, the not-for-profit organisation behind the initiative.
 
Piled-up books, which initially appeared to provide a seat for a boy painted onto the brick walls of the listed 19th-Century building, have fallen over and now lie encrusted in mud on the soggy floor.
 
The paintwork on what was the re-creation of an empty swimming pool has been mostly washed away by the rain.
 
So why not touch up the paint, put the books back in place?
 
“This is the destiny of these works,” says Antonelli.
 
“This place has been abandoned since the factory closed in 1957. Since I was a little boy there have been plans to turn it into a museum, student accommodation, something.
 
“But nothing has ever come of it. So now, we are asking the question: what is the destiny of the Mira Lanza going to be?”
 
That such a prime site, located a short walk from the trendy downtown neighbourhood of Testaccio and only a few kilometres (miles) from the ancient heart of Rome, should have been left undeveloped for 60 years would be unthinkable in most comparable cities.
 
That it has been appears to be down to a combination of Rome's chronically weak urban planning – seen most notably in its underdeveloped transport network – and some unfortunate twists of fate.
 
The books were brought to the site when plans to develop it as an offshoot of a prestigious drama college were at an advanced stage.
 
But those plans and most of the books went up in smoke when the building was ravaged by a fire that broke out after hundreds of squatters were forcibly evicted from the site in 2014.
 
In an area the squatters used as a latrine, the artist has painted a crouching boy with his head emerging into the light, a work entitled Lux in Tenebris (Light in Darkness) in homage to how it came to be.
 
“To clear the space we literally had to shovel out piles of shit – it is not what you usually associate with curating a contemporary art exhibition,” said Antonelli.
 
Another wall sports paintings of migrants crammed onto boats bound for Italy's southern shores. The colourful images create a similar impression to a run of stained glass windows in a church.
 
In the adjacent, roofless hall, the surviving, often lopsided, pillars have been painted in the colours of the rainbow to create an installation inspired by the destruction of treasured Roman monuments in Palmyra, Syria, by the Islamic State group.
 
Since the roof's collapse, the colourful pillars have themselves become damaged history.
 
A pile of painted bricks provides the support for another painted little boy: “Brickseat” it's called, in a nod to the Brexit vote that had just taken place when Seth was creating the collection.
 
The Paris-born artist, whose real name is Julien Malland, has created large-scale murals and colourful street art all over the world.
 
In the aftermath of the 2014 fire, Antonelli's organisation put together a proposal to clean up the site, make it safe and put on a pilot exhibition to demonstrate its potential.
 
With a budget of 50,000 euros ($54,000), plus the cost of employing an architect for 50 days, that vision won the backing of former mayor Ignazio Marino.
 
But he was forced to resign on the very day the accord was due to be signed and it was back to square one.
 
Fifteen months later, the collective is hoping to persuade his replacement Virginia Raggi to sign up.
 
But with her administration beset by more pressing issues, a resolution of the fate of the Mira Lanza does not look imminent.

ART

African-born director’s new vision for Berlin cultural magnet

One of the rare African-born figures to head a German cultural institution, Bonaventure Ndikung is aiming to highlight post-colonial multiculturalism at a Berlin arts centre with its roots in Western hegemony.

African-born director's new vision for Berlin cultural magnet

The “Haus der Kulturen der Welt” (House of World Cultures), or HKW, was built by the Americans in 1956 during the Cold War for propaganda purposes, at a time when Germany was still divided.

New director Ndikung said it had been located “strategically” so that people on the other side of the Berlin Wall, in the then-communist East, could see it.

This was “representing freedom” but “from the Western perspective”, the 46-year-old told AFP.

Now Ndikung, born in Cameroon before coming to study in Germany 26 years ago, wants to transform it into a place filled with “different cultures of the world”.

The centre, by the river Spree, is known locally as the “pregnant oyster” due to its sweeping, curved roof. It does not have its own collections but is home to exhibition rooms and a 1,000-seat auditorium.

It reopened in June after renovations, and Ndikung’s first project “Quilombismo” fits in with his aims of expanding the centre’s offerings.

The exhibition takes its name from the Brazilian term “Quilombo”, referring to the communities formed in the 17th century by African slaves, who fled to remote parts of the South American country.

Throughout the summer, there will also be performances, concerts, films, discussions and an exhibition of contemporary art from post-colonial societies across Africa, the Americas, Asia and Oceania.

‘Rethink the space’

“We have been trying to… rethink the space. We invited artists to paint walls… even the floor,” Ndikung said.

And part of the “Quilombismo” exhibition can be found glued to the floor -African braids laced together, a symbol of liberation for black people, which was created by Zimbabwean artist Nontsikelelo Mutiti.

According to Ndikung, African slaves on plantations sometimes plaited their hair in certain ways as a kind of coded message to those seeking to escape, showing them which direction to head.

READ ALSO: Germany hands back looted artefacts to Nigeria

His quest for aestheticism is reflected in his appearance: with a colourful suit and headgear, as well as huge rings on his fingers, he rarely goes unnoticed.

During his interview with AFP, Ndikung was wearing a green scarf and cap, a blue-ish jacket and big, sky-blue shoes.

With a doctorate in medical biology, he used to work as an engineer before devoting himself to art.

In 2010, he founded the Savvy Gallery in Berlin, bringing together art from the West and elsewhere, and in 2017 was one of the curators of Documenta, a prestigious contemporary art event in the German city of Kassel.

Convinced of the belief that history “has been written by a particular type of people, mostly white and men,” Ndikung has had all the rooms in the HKW renamed after women.

These are figures who have “done something important in the advancement of the world” but were “erased” from history, he added. Among them is Frenchwoman Paulette Nardal, born in Martinique in 1896.

She helped inspire the creation of the “negritude” movement, which aimed to develop black literary consciousness, and was the first black woman to study at the Sorbonne in Paris.

Reassessing history

Ndikung’s appointment at the HKW comes as awareness grows in Germany about its colonial past, which has long been overshadowed by the atrocities committed during the era of Adolf Hitler’s Nazis.

Berlin has in recent years started returning looted objects to African countries which it occupied in the early 20th century — Burundi, Rwanda, Tanzania, Namibia and Cameroon.

“It’s long overdue,” said Ndikung.

He was born in Cameroon’s capital, Yaounde, into an anglophone family.

The country is majority francophone but also home to an anglophone minority and has faced deadly unrest in English-speaking areas, where armed insurgents are fighting to establish an independent homeland.

One of his dreams is to open a museum in Cameroon “bringing together historical and contemporary objects” from different countries, he said.

He would love to locate it in Bamenda, the capital of Cameroon’s restive Northwest region.

“But there is a war in Bamenda, so I can’t,” he says.

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