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SWEDEN

Eight of Gothenburg’s coziest cafes this winter

Sweden has a reputation for its coffee culture, but if there's one city in the country that does it best, it's probably Gothenburg. With winter in full swing, now's the time to get wrapped up and head to one of the second city's many cozy cafes. Here are eight of the best…

Eight of Gothenburg's coziest cafes this winter
Kafé Magasinet on Tredje Långgatan does mood lighting well. Photo: aveny.se/Göteborg & Co

READ ALSO: Seven reasons Gothenburg is cooler than Stockholm

Kafé Magasinet, Långgatorna

Gothenburg’s Långgatorna block (the area around the four separate Långgatan streets) is known for its nightlife and bars, but there’s also a perfect escape from the bitter winter winds in the form of Kafé Magasinet on Tredje Långgatan.

Housed inside the old auction building, candles and low lighting glowing against the exposed brick make it easy on the eye for those slow, dark Swedish Sundays. All of the coffee is organic and fairtrade too, so you can feel good about yourself while you relax.

 

Missing Gothenburg & breakfast at one of my favorite spots, @kafemagasinet #JeepStache

A photo posted by Felicia Skoglund (@felicialma) on Nov 25, 2016 at 1:23am PST

Da Matteo, city centre

Famed Gothenburg coffee roasters Da Matteo have a number of different locations in town, but if you’re looking for somewhere relaxing to sit during the chillier stretch of the year, two in particular stand out.

The larger branch on Magasingatan (there are two opposite one another) is warm, has ample seating and its own bakery – and if there's one thing that comes close to the taste of freshly baked bread and buns, it's the smell.

A few blocks away on Victoriapassagen lies a smaller incarnation, and what it lacks in size it makes up for with a tranquil outdoor seating area, where you can sip something warm and watch people dipping in and out of the shops on the narrow alley while escaping the city's infamous winds – more or less!

 

A photo posted by Dusan Danilovic (@__dule) on Nov 27, 2016 at 5:17am PST

Berzelii Choklad, city centre

Not everyone is a diehard coffee lover of course, and Berzelii Choklad near Gothenburg Cathedral specializes in a different kind of bean. To find it, head into the Almedals Magasinet store on Korsgatan 21, then continue up to the second floor and you’ll reach a world of chocolate guaranteed to make winter much more pleasant.

Along with handmade pralines, truffles and the like, there’s also a lunch menu combining baked goods with chocolate on a Thursday and Friday. Teas and coffees can be ordered too, but let’s be honest, you’re there for the sweet stuff.

Biscotti, Majorna

It’ll take a short tram journey from the city centre to reach Biscotti, but it’s well worth the small effort. The biggest selling point is the specialty pastries, but with the cafe consistently recommended in Sweden’s White Guide as one of the best in the country, a high standard can be expected across the board.

Big, wide windows help make the most of what little natural light the Swedish winter offers, and with the location placed well away from the tourist hotspots, expect an authentic local clientele (including Majorna’s resident hipsters, naturally).

Såhär i höstmörkret så har vi värmande äpplemust med grädde och kanel.

Posted by Biscotti Majorna on Friday, 4 November 2016

Vallgatan 12, city centre

Once an old bank vault, Vallgatan 12 has been transformed into a minimalist blend of shop, restaurant and cafe, where Scandi design lovers can take their pick of cool interior and fashion pieces before settling down for a coffee with a view of the bustling street at one of the window seats.

If the short days have you questioning why you chose to live in a darker corner of the world, this is the perfect place to remind yourself that it’s because it’s unbelievably cool. The buns also help.

 

Okej nej men jag går av så fin husvägg! #vallgatan12 #göteborg #gbg #höstkänsla

A photo posted by Lina Bodén (@bodenlina) on Oct 11, 2016 at 6:38am PDT

Bar Centro, city centre

Everything about Bar Centro’s location – wedged between various chain stores in an otherwise generic part of Gothenburg’s shopping district – says it should be forgettable, but really it’s the exact opposite.

A friendly, family vibe flies in the face of the stereotype of cold Swedish service, and while you may have to share a table with someone reading a newspaper or taking their time over a macchiato, a little human interaction goes a long way at this time of the year.

 

This is where you find the best coffee in Gothenburg. Period. #barcentro #cashisking

A photo posted by Albin Pettersson Bråthe (@albinpb) on Nov 20, 2016 at 7:05am PST

Röda Sten, Majorna

If a drink with a perfect view is what you’re after then it’s difficult to do better than the Röda Sten, nestled under Gothenburg’s iconic Älvsborg bridge. A perfect example of how Sweden’s second city takes old industrial buildings and makes them into something new and spectacular, it’s warm and friendly inside, but the trump card is really the front patio.

You’ll need to wrap up like the Swedes do, but the combination of a cup of coffee and a view of the ships moving in and out of Gothenburg harbour is a perfect way to forget the more stressful things in life. Once the wind becomes too much you can just go back inside and check out some of the art in the building’s exhibition space. Winter days don’t get much better.

 

Hög tid att ta en te på @rodastenrestaurang Ta vägen förbi oss o titta på nyheterna som just anlände!! #älvsborgsbron #rödasten

A photo posted by SOCKERBRUKET 6 GÖTEBORG (@sockerbruket6) on Nov 9, 2016 at 5:41am PST

Bar Piccolino, city centre

The right atmosphere can make or break a cafe, and the welcoming tone at Bar Piccolino will definitely make a cold day feel a touch easier. Small but inviting, it’s owned by two brothers of Italian origin who make a mean espresso and draw plenty of regulars, which is always a good sign.

Still not convinced? Check out the wall covered in signatures from famous people who came along in the past and liked the place so much they put their name on it. Here’s Celta Vigo and Sweden striker John Guidetti doing that very thing.

 

Stora profiler signerade väggen på Piccolino idag! #barpiccolino #profiler #caffe #juice #amore #därdethänder

A photo posted by Bar Piccolino (@barpiccolinogbg) on May 27, 2016 at 7:40am PDT

FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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