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Wasps and weather threaten Italian chestnuts

The sight, smell and taste of roasted chestnuts are one of the hallmarks of an Italian autumn - but production of the nuts has hit a "historic low" in 2016.

Wasps and weather threaten Italian chestnuts
Roasted chestnuts are a familiar sight on Italy's streets - but the autumnal snack is under threat. Photo: Allen Brewer/Flickr

A combination of unfavourable weather and parasites targeting chestnut trees has led to a huge drop in production this year, Italian farmers' organization Coldiretti warned on Saturday.

In Salerno, the top location for chestnut farming, chestnut production could fall by as much as 90 percent, the local branch of Coldiretti said. The organization labelled the drop a “disaster” and met with local farmers over the weekend “to work out solutions in order to save the season”. 

Chestnuts are produced in all of Italy's regions, but the majority are produced in the south, which has been badly affected by drought.

The trees have also been plagued by parasitic Chinese gall wasps, which were first recorded in Piedmont in 2002 and spread throughout the country. While northern areas have begun to recover, Coldiretti said that the wasps were responsible for “a real massacre” in the south.

Across the country, a historically low 20 million kg of chestnuts are expected to be produced. That compares to around 60 million in the early 2000's and 82 million a century ago.

“The situation affects not only producers but the whole supply chain, and many companies struggle to produce the minimum income needed to survive,” Coldiretti warned.

Italy is likely to import chestnuts from neighbouring countries such as Spain, Portugal and Albania to meet demand; in 2015, around 32 million kg were imported, compared to just 6 million in 2010.

However, the farmers' organization warned that these imported nuts may be passed off as Italian or even local produce, pushing prices down for Italian producers and compounding the problem.

To help protect farmers, Coldiretti Salerno has called for increased checks on the origin of chestnuts sold in Italy, and for a new regional law to protect the product, offering farmers compensation. 

Chestnut trees, which make up ten percent of all Italian forests, are important not only because of the nuts themselves, but also for maintaining geological balance in hilly and mountainous areas.

'Made in Italy' under threat

In September, Coldiretti warned that 'made in Italy' olive oil was often anything but, with imported oils often passed off as Italian or sold in misleading packaging. 

The organization called for more checks to be put in place in order to protect Italian farmers, who are struggling due to the competition with cheaper foreign oils.  

To make matters worse, year of bad weather led to a 38 percent drop in olive oil production in Italy, another historic low.

And Italian wines could also be under threat due to the impact of climate change; grapes are one of the most weather-sensitive crops and thrive in Italy thanks to its long, hot summers and cool, dry winters.

But a 2013 study by Conservation International warned that if trends continue at the current rate, Italy's famed wines could soon disappear from our tables.

 

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FOOD AND DRINK

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

As well as its most famous cocktails, Italy has a long tradition of making refreshing aperitivo drinks without the alcohol.

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

Italy’s favourite aperitivo-hour cocktails are known far beyond the country’s borders, so their names will probably be familiar to you whether you drink them or not.

But if you’re in Italy and not drinking alcohol, you might find yourself stumped when it comes time to order your aperitivo at the bar.

The first time I found myself in this situation, there was no menu. The waiter instead rattled off a long list of all the soft drinks available, most of which I’d never heard of, and I just picked something I thought sounded nice.

Luckily it turns out that Italy has some great options for an aperitivo analcolico. As well as ‘virgin’ versions of well-known cocktails, there are bitters, sodas and other Italian-made soft drinks that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

They might not be quite as iconic as the Aperol Spritz, but they’re as thoroughly Italian – plus, effortlessly ordering one of these will make you look like a true local.

SanBittèr

San Pellegrino’s SanBittèr is one of the most famous non-alcoholic Italian drinks of all, with its highly-recognisable red packaging, often enjoyed in place of Campari cocktails because of its similar dark, ruby-red color.

This drink is carbonated with a slightly sweet, citrus flavor. The recipe is more complex than that of an orange or lemon soda, with notes of spice and herbs, making it ideal to pair with your aperitivo-hour snacks.

Crodino

Crodino looks a lot like an Aperol Spritz with its bright orange hue, and that’s not an accident: it’s said to have been created as a non-alcoholic alternative, and the zesty, slightly herbal taste is similar. It’s typically served the same way. in a round goblet glass over ice with a slice of orange: a Crodino Spritz.

The name comes from the town of Crodo in Piedmont, where it is still bottled today by the Campari group.

Chinotto

Citrusy Chinotto is an acquired taste for many, but it’s worth trying: it’s one of the classic Italian bitters and is said to have a long history, dating back to a recipe shared by Chinese sailors arriving on the Ligurian coast in the 1500s.

It may look a little like Coca Cola, but don’t let the appearance fool you.

(Photo by Eugene Gologursky /Getty Images via AFP)

Aranciata/Limonata

Aranciata is Italy’s version of an orange soda, but not as sugary, and it tastes like oranges. Its base is sparkling water with the addition of orange juice and sugar. There are various brands, but San Pellegrino’s is the most popular. It also sells a ‘bitter’ aranciata amaro, with even less sugar, more citrus tang and herbal notes, which might be more aperitivo-hour appropriate.

Limonata is, as you might guess, the Italian answer to lemonade. Again there are many versions out there but the fizzy San Pellegrino limonata is beloved for its strong, sweet-sour flavour and there’s nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day.

Cedrata

Cedrata is one of Italy’s oldest and best-known non-alcoholic drinks. It’s a refreshing, carbonated drink made from a large citrus fruit called a cedro, grown in southern Italy. It’s far less bitter than a Chinotto, but not as sweet as limonata.

The main producer of Cedrata today is Tassoni, and this is what you’re likely to get if you order it at a bar.

Gingerino

This is harder to find than the other aperitivi on the list and is seen as decidedly retro, but it’s worth trying if you can track it down.

It’s another orange-coloured, sparkling drink which became popular in Italy in the 1970s and is still sold today, though you’re more likely to find it in the north-east, close to Venice, where it’s produced.

You may be expecting it to taste a lot like ginger beer, and there are similarities, but it has stronger citrus notes and more bitterness.

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