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FARMING

Record increase in olive oil fraud: Coldiretti

'Made in Italy' olive oil is often anything but - despite laws aimed at protecting the quality of the product, warns a report from Italian farmers' organization Coldiretti.

Record increase in olive oil fraud: Coldiretti
Olive oil is one of Italy's main agricultural exports. Photo: Dave Fayram/Flickr

The study was presented in Florence on Thursday, Italy's National Day of Italian Extra-virgin Olive Oil, which also saw 10,000 farmers protest against unfair competition and lack of transparency on oil labels.

Fraud in the oils and fats industry quadrupled in 2015, the organization said, with a record 278 percent increase in the number of products seized.

The most common type of fraud was passing off foreign oil as Italian. Foreign olive oils are often mixed with those from Italy before being packaged in bottles replete with Italian flags and imagery, potentially deceiving consumers.

Coldiretti's report revealed that there's more Spanish olive oil than Italian on supermarket shelves.

READ ALSO: Like a virgin – How to spot fake Italian extra virgin olive oil

Two thirds of bottles contained foreign oil, with Spain (60 percent) and Greece (25 percent) the most common culprits. Almost ten percent came from countries outside the EU such as Tunisia.

But this wasn't always clear from the packaging, which often carried Italian flags and symbols – leaving Italian farmers struggling with competition from lower-priced, lower quality foreign oils. The standard of extra-virgin olive oil in Italy is strictly regulated.

This is despite recent toughening of laws over packaging, which came into force in July this year and saw fines for fraudulent oil increased significantly.

While the laws made it compulsory to state on packaging when non-Italian olives had been used, the report argues that in many cases these labels are almost impossible to read, due to very small writing or awkward placement.

But it wasn't just shops and manufacturers who were guilty of neglecting laws over labelling and packaging on the oils. Restaurants also came under fire, with roughly three quarters failing to comply with regulations.

Italy is very protective of its olive oil. Numerous laws have been introduced in Italy to protect Italian farmers from unfair competition from lower quality brands passing themselves off as the real deal, and to protect consumers from sub-standard condiments.

Seven major Italian producers were investigated in 2015 after allegations they failed to abide by the rules on how olive oil should be produced and labelled.

The farmers' problems were compounded by a year of bad weather leading to a 38 percent drop in production in Italy, which Coldiretti called “a historic low, with inevitable effects on prices”.

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FOOD AND DRINK

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

As well as its most famous cocktails, Italy has a long tradition of making refreshing aperitivo drinks without the alcohol.

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

Italy’s favourite aperitivo-hour cocktails are known far beyond the country’s borders, so their names will probably be familiar to you whether you drink them or not.

But if you’re in Italy and not drinking alcohol, you might find yourself stumped when it comes time to order your aperitivo at the bar.

The first time I found myself in this situation, there was no menu. The waiter instead rattled off a long list of all the soft drinks available, most of which I’d never heard of, and I just picked something I thought sounded nice.

Luckily it turns out that Italy has some great options for an aperitivo analcolico. As well as ‘virgin’ versions of well-known cocktails, there are bitters, sodas and other Italian-made soft drinks that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

They might not be quite as iconic as the Aperol Spritz, but they’re as thoroughly Italian – plus, effortlessly ordering one of these will make you look like a true local.

SanBittèr

San Pellegrino’s SanBittèr is one of the most famous non-alcoholic Italian drinks of all, with its highly-recognisable red packaging, often enjoyed in place of Campari cocktails because of its similar dark, ruby-red color.

This drink is carbonated with a slightly sweet, citrus flavor. The recipe is more complex than that of an orange or lemon soda, with notes of spice and herbs, making it ideal to pair with your aperitivo-hour snacks.

Crodino

Crodino looks a lot like an Aperol Spritz with its bright orange hue, and that’s not an accident: it’s said to have been created as a non-alcoholic alternative, and the zesty, slightly herbal taste is similar. It’s typically served the same way. in a round goblet glass over ice with a slice of orange: a Crodino Spritz.

The name comes from the town of Crodo in Piedmont, where it is still bottled today by the Campari group.

Chinotto

Citrusy Chinotto is an acquired taste for many, but it’s worth trying: it’s one of the classic Italian bitters and is said to have a long history, dating back to a recipe shared by Chinese sailors arriving on the Ligurian coast in the 1500s.

It may look a little like Coca Cola, but don’t let the appearance fool you.

(Photo by Eugene Gologursky /Getty Images via AFP)

Aranciata/Limonata

Aranciata is Italy’s version of an orange soda, but not as sugary, and it tastes like oranges. Its base is sparkling water with the addition of orange juice and sugar. There are various brands, but San Pellegrino’s is the most popular. It also sells a ‘bitter’ aranciata amaro, with even less sugar, more citrus tang and herbal notes, which might be more aperitivo-hour appropriate.

Limonata is, as you might guess, the Italian answer to lemonade. Again there are many versions out there but the fizzy San Pellegrino limonata is beloved for its strong, sweet-sour flavour and there’s nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day.

Cedrata

Cedrata is one of Italy’s oldest and best-known non-alcoholic drinks. It’s a refreshing, carbonated drink made from a large citrus fruit called a cedro, grown in southern Italy. It’s far less bitter than a Chinotto, but not as sweet as limonata.

The main producer of Cedrata today is Tassoni, and this is what you’re likely to get if you order it at a bar.

Gingerino

This is harder to find than the other aperitivi on the list and is seen as decidedly retro, but it’s worth trying if you can track it down.

It’s another orange-coloured, sparkling drink which became popular in Italy in the 1970s and is still sold today, though you’re more likely to find it in the north-east, close to Venice, where it’s produced.

You may be expecting it to taste a lot like ginger beer, and there are similarities, but it has stronger citrus notes and more bitterness.

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