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SCHOOL

Do French kids get the best school lunches in the world?

Sliced endive with basil, sautéed beef Charolais, and plenty of cheese... The food is fabulous at French schools, says Aussie expat Sam Goff, and it's hard to disagree.

Do French kids get the best school lunches in the world?
Photo: Sam Goff

My daughter started school primary school this week and their school menu is fabulous. 

Everything is so varied, well balanced, and so very mature – as in, they don’t just serve “kid” food – it’s adult food in small portions.

There’s endives, tuna steak, pork sautée, salads, vegetable bakes, beef steak, omelettes, chicken and rice, zucchini, and carrots and even fish stews – and all of it rounded off with delicious French cheese, yoghurt and fruits. They get an afternoon snack too; with baguette, fruit or sometimes biscuits. If I could, I’d eat there every day.

As an Australian mother with an American husband, our first experience with food in a collective sense was through the creche (daycare). 

Every day we would drool over the menu posted outside the entrance – fish at least three times a week, vegetables, fruits, and most importantly – cheese. It really amazed me that these 1-3 year olds were eating cheeses such as brie and camembert. My palate was not as developed at their age; we used to eat Kraft cheese slices and thought that was special. 

School staff took so much pride in explaining that they had their own chef, that he selected bio foods where possible and everything was home made. And this was a public creche – where I paid less than €10 a day for food, childcare and all the rest. I couldn’t believe it.

All the kids sit down together to eat – they teach them table manners, routine, setting the table and eating properly so early. And my daughter eats absolutely everything; in fact, when we go to the market, she is the one who asks to get broccoli.

And I think the best part is that they teach kids to appreciate food – and sitting down at a table to eat. It’s all very civilised. The 3 year olds set their own tables, pour the water into glasses (they don’t drink out of water fountains like I did) and they eat with knives and forks. They have three courses, starting with salad (crudités) and raw vegetables, then their main meal, followed by dessert. And they always let us know if they eat well and what foods they’ve tried.

My daughter loves it. She eats everything they have to offer; because she started eating vegetables and balanced meals here so early – it’s totally normal for her. Whereas, I had some friends over visiting from Australia recently – and their son would only eat ramen noodles and chips. Not that I judge that though – kids can be picky eaters, it’s true. But I think there’s a certain amount of “peer encouragement” that goes on here with food at school.

When a kid doesn’t like eating a particular food, the staff will encourage him/her to try it, usually with a full chorus encouragement from all the other kids. So it’s a kind of “positive peer pressure”. I wonder sometimes if I wouldn’t have discovered earlier in my life how much I love spinach, for example, if we had that same system when I was growing up – so much lost time that I could have been eating spinach earlier. 

Another thing I noticed among my daughter’s friends and their families is how little they eat out also. We took her to McDonald’s for the second time in her life during the holidays – and she didn’t eat a thing. But when she got home, she asked “Mum, can I have some broccoli and couscous please?”

I realised at that moment how glad I am that my kid is going to school and developing her taste buds and palate here in France – it really is the gastronomy capital of the world. Not just for their famous recipes, such as Beef Bourginon and veal stew, but more so for their love of food, their reverence for taking the time to sit and eat properly, balanced meals. 

I had some French Mums tell me “ah, the canteen at school is not that great” and screw their noses up at it. But I don’t think they actually realise just how lucky they are. They compare it to their own cooking; but when compared to what is on offer in other countries – we’re really spoiled here. They can’t even imagine the Vegemite sandwiches of my childhood in Australia.

When I was at school as a child, we always had to take our own lunch box. There was a tiny little “hole in the wall” style tuck shop that sold chips, soft drinks, salad rolls, lollies and pies – but we always had a lunch box because it was cheaper for my parents I guess. 

My husband, who is American – explained that at his school, you placed your lunch order in the morning with different fast food shops – such as pizza hut, subway, sloppy joes etc. Everyone ate junk food everyday. So it’s even worse.

French kids don’t even realize how lucky they have it. 

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FOOD AND DRINK

Did Austria really invent France’s iconic croissant?

It's often said that Austria in fact invented the croissant - and some even claim that Marie Antoinette brought it to France - but the real story is a little more complicated than that.

Did Austria really invent France's iconic croissant?

The croissant is probably the food product most closely associated with France (tied with the baguette) but is it even French? Well, it depends on how you look at it.

The French croissant is usually credited to a couple of Austrian migrants – August Zang and Ernest Schwartzer, who opened a bakery in Paris in the 1830s. They specialised in the pastries and cakes of their homeland and are generally agreed to have popularised the kipferl in France.

Listen to the team from The Local discussing croissants in the latest episode of the Talking France podcast. Listen here or on the link below

The kipferl shows up in records in Austria at least as early as the 13th century, so it definitely pre-dates the croissant.

In the 1800s the French went crazy for Austrian pastries, which is why we talk about viennoiseries (referencing Austrian capital Vienna) to refer to breakfast pastries such as croissants, pain au chocolat and pain au raisin.

But is a kipferl a croissant? The original recipe called for the roll to be made of bread, not pastry, and modern recipes call for a light yeast dough, often scented with vanilla.

Delicious, undoubtedly, but a croissaint . . .

It wasn’t until the early 20th century that the French baker Sylvain Claudius Goy created a recipe using puff pastry instead.

His instructions specified that the croissant be made of rolled puff pastry, laminated with butter to create layers – and this is how modern day croissants are made.

The pastry layers are what creates the distinctive crumb-scattering deliciousness that is a croissant.

So did the Austrians invent the croissant or did they just invent a curved bread roll? Or should France and Austria share the credit and chalk this one up to another great success from international cooperation?

One thing that is certainly French is the name – croissant in French simply means ‘crescent’ and refers to the shape of the breakfast pastry.

It’s used in other contexts too – for example Le Mouvement international de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge – is how the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Movement is referred to in French.

And Marie Antoinette?

This historical rumour is almost certainly rubbish.

Although Marie Antoinette was indeed Austrian, the first record of the croissant does not appear in Paris until at least 40 years after her death and the two Austrian bakers credited with introducing the croissant weren’t even born when she met her end on the guillotine in 1793.

Also, she never said ‘let them eat cake’.

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