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ITALY

Italy’s food purists rage over America’s ‘white bolognese’

A recipe for a tomato-free bolognese published by the New York Times (NYT) has caused a stir in Italy, with scores of simmering Italians taking to the major newspaper's website message board to blast its recipe for ‘Rigatoni with white Bolognese’.

Italy's food purists rage over America's 'white bolognese'
In the traditional Italian dish, ragù alla Bolognese, tomatoes are very much an essential ingredient. Photo: Sharon Mollerus/Flickr

In the traditional Italian dish, ragù alla Bolognese, tomatoes are very much an essential ingredient and their exclusion has upset food purists, who are tired of seeing ‘Bolognese’ used as an adjective to describe any kind of pasta dish served with minced meat.

“White ragù sauces do exist, we even teach them in our cooking class in Venice,” food blogger and cookery instructor, Monica Cesarato, told The Local.

“What’s wrong is calling them ‘bolognese’ – it’s a simple as that.”

But Italian food purists were not so forgiving.

“Our suggestion is that you organize a trip to Bologna so you can understand the cuisine,” wrote Giovanna and Valentina underneath the offending recipe. “The ragù you describe is terrible, so please stop inventing recipes.”

“I can only suppose that this recipe is for people who are intolerant of tomato,” wrote Salvo from Sicily.

“If you are not allergic to tomato, please use the original recipe which is delicious and absolutely unique,” he urged.

“Call this recipe what you want not Bolognese,” wrote another user, who branded the dish a ‘sacrilege’.

The New York Times's recipe is made using ground beef and pork sausage meat; it excludes tomato but takes the unorthodox step of including porcini mushrooms.

Otherwise, it is fairly faithful to the original recipe.

It is by no means the first time a foreign interpretation of a traditional dish has upset Italian foodies, who tend to be highly protective of their cuisine.

Indeed, in a bid to protect the authentic ragù alla Bolognese, the Italian Academy of Cuisine archived the ’true’ recipe with the Bologna Chamber of Commerce in 1982.

The original recipe is made by frying carrot, onion and celery before ground beef, pork and pancetta are added. After that, wine and, crucially, tomatoes, complete the ensemble.

Despite attempts to protect the dish from foreign corruption, ‘Bolognese’ is now used worldwide to describe any kind pasta served with ground meat, much to the chagrin of Bologna restaurateurs, who are tired of hearing tourists ask for a ‘spag bol’.

Bolognese, they say, is only ever served with Tagliatelle, and so ‘spaghetti Bolognese’ quite simply, doesn’t exist. 

The problem has become so bad that last month Bologna's airport felt compelled to send a tweet to the low-cost airline, Ryanair, telling them to stop using 'spaghetti Bolognese' when promoting flights to the city.

Although the tomato-free Bolognese recipe published by The New York Times might have offended some Italians, it currently has a five-star rating after being rated 590 times by readers, many of whom call the dish ‘delicious’ and ‘wonderful’.

“It might be good, but please do not call it Italian,” wrote one Italian.

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FOOD AND DRINK

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

As well as its most famous cocktails, Italy has a long tradition of making refreshing aperitivo drinks without the alcohol.

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

Italy’s favourite aperitivo-hour cocktails are known far beyond the country’s borders, so their names will probably be familiar to you whether you drink them or not.

But if you’re in Italy and not drinking alcohol, you might find yourself stumped when it comes time to order your aperitivo at the bar.

The first time I found myself in this situation, there was no menu. The waiter instead rattled off a long list of all the soft drinks available, most of which I’d never heard of, and I just picked something I thought sounded nice.

Luckily it turns out that Italy has some great options for an aperitivo analcolico. As well as ‘virgin’ versions of well-known cocktails, there are bitters, sodas and other Italian-made soft drinks that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

They might not be quite as iconic as the Aperol Spritz, but they’re as thoroughly Italian – plus, effortlessly ordering one of these will make you look like a true local.

SanBittèr

San Pellegrino’s SanBittèr is one of the most famous non-alcoholic Italian drinks of all, with its highly-recognisable red packaging, often enjoyed in place of Campari cocktails because of its similar dark, ruby-red color.

This drink is carbonated with a slightly sweet, citrus flavor. The recipe is more complex than that of an orange or lemon soda, with notes of spice and herbs, making it ideal to pair with your aperitivo-hour snacks.

Crodino

Crodino looks a lot like an Aperol Spritz with its bright orange hue, and that’s not an accident: it’s said to have been created as a non-alcoholic alternative, and the zesty, slightly herbal taste is similar. It’s typically served the same way. in a round goblet glass over ice with a slice of orange: a Crodino Spritz.

The name comes from the town of Crodo in Piedmont, where it is still bottled today by the Campari group.

Chinotto

Citrusy Chinotto is an acquired taste for many, but it’s worth trying: it’s one of the classic Italian bitters and is said to have a long history, dating back to a recipe shared by Chinese sailors arriving on the Ligurian coast in the 1500s.

It may look a little like Coca Cola, but don’t let the appearance fool you.

(Photo by Eugene Gologursky /Getty Images via AFP)

Aranciata/Limonata

Aranciata is Italy’s version of an orange soda, but not as sugary, and it tastes like oranges. Its base is sparkling water with the addition of orange juice and sugar. There are various brands, but San Pellegrino’s is the most popular. It also sells a ‘bitter’ aranciata amaro, with even less sugar, more citrus tang and herbal notes, which might be more aperitivo-hour appropriate.

Limonata is, as you might guess, the Italian answer to lemonade. Again there are many versions out there but the fizzy San Pellegrino limonata is beloved for its strong, sweet-sour flavour and there’s nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day.

Cedrata

Cedrata is one of Italy’s oldest and best-known non-alcoholic drinks. It’s a refreshing, carbonated drink made from a large citrus fruit called a cedro, grown in southern Italy. It’s far less bitter than a Chinotto, but not as sweet as limonata.

The main producer of Cedrata today is Tassoni, and this is what you’re likely to get if you order it at a bar.

Gingerino

This is harder to find than the other aperitivi on the list and is seen as decidedly retro, but it’s worth trying if you can track it down.

It’s another orange-coloured, sparkling drink which became popular in Italy in the 1970s and is still sold today, though you’re more likely to find it in the north-east, close to Venice, where it’s produced.

You may be expecting it to taste a lot like ginger beer, and there are similarities, but it has stronger citrus notes and more bitterness.

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