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NESPRESSO

Nespresso inventor says wife and Rome cafe inspired ‘pod’

Had Eric Favre not married an Italian woman, it's possible none of us would be drinking Nespresso.

Nespresso inventor says wife and Rome cafe inspired 'pod'
A trained rocket engineer, Favre joined Nestle's packaging department in 1975. Photo: AFP

The man who conceived of single-portion coffee capsules four decades ago told AFP he was always destined to be an inventor, but some teasing by his wife Anna-Maria steered him towards the idea that revolutionised home coffee consumption.

A trained rocket engineer, Favre said he joined Nestle's packaging department in 1975 to learn the inner workings of a multi-national corporation before branching out on his own.

That's when Anna-Maria told her Swiss husband that his country knew nothing about making coffee.

“I wanted to prove to my new wife that I have the capacity to make the best espresso,” Favre, 69, said during a tour of his office in Saint Barthelemy, Switzerland, which includes a small museum devoted to his iconic invention.

In the coming months he scoured Rome in search of the perfect brew and developed a prototype espresso machine that looked like an unused prop from one of the “Back to the Future” films — an awkward assembly of cylinders and tubes.

Resistance within Nestle against home-made espresso was stiff.

Nescafe, its enormously popular instant coffee blend, was enjoying its initial boom and company executives saw little need to invest in expensive home espresso machines, certain the instant mix would remain home consumers' preferred brew.

Favre persisted and Nespresso was finally launched in 1986, with Favre as its director general.

Thirty years on, the counter-top machine is a key revenue generator for Nestle, the world's largest food and beverage company. It no longer gives breakout statistics for Nespresso but the Bloomberg news agency estimated sales at $4.5 billion in 2015.

Yet challenges are mounting as competitors cut into Nespresso's market share and environmental concerns have risen about the waste generated by used pods.

Favre left Nestle long before Nespresso became a massive global brand with a movie-star pitchman, but voiced hope that the coffee pod's creation story would not be lost.

“It's not just about pictures of George Clooney,” he said, referring to Nespresso's brand ambassador.

In 1975, Favre's coffee quest took him to the Caffe Sant'Eustachio, now listed in travel guides as a place serving one of the best espressos in Rome, but which at the time stood out because it was busier than everywhere else.

Using Anna-Maria as his “spy”, Favre said he discovered that a key to Sant'Eustachio's superior coffee and crema was repeated aeration while hot water was being pumped through the coffee grinds.

His idea for a machine that aimed for maximum aeration through a carefully formulated single-portion pod was born while watching Sant'Eustachio's barrista, Favre explained.

In 1983, Nestle sent Favre on assignment to the Nescafe factory in Japan.

He decided to pitch Nespresso's merits to the chief executive there, hoping for better luck than he had with his bosses in Switzerland.

The plan worked and Nespresso launched in 1986, but it suffered initial stumbles and Favre left Nestle in 1991.

He went on to found a string of successful coffee pod companies, including Monodor, which developed more energy efficient pods that had more coffee and generated less waste from packaging.

Nespresso's popularity, meanwhile, exploded but several of its key patents expired in 2011, which represents “a major threat” to its future growth, said Virginia Lee, senior beverage analyst at market research firm Euromonitor International.

Competitors including companies that make Nespresso compatible pods “are growing rapidly and cannibalising Nespresso's share of coffee pods due to lower prices and wider distribution,” Lee wrote in a 2016 report.

In Western Europe, for example, Nestle's coffee pod market share fell from 41 percent in 2011 to 37 percent in 2015, according to Euromonitor.

Favre predicted this five years ago, telling the Global Coffee Review magazine in 2011 that Nestle would face threats from new capsule makers flooding the market and that to stay ahead, the company would have to maintain a rigorous focus on quality.

And despite leaving the company a quarter-centry ago under somewhat acrimonious circumstances, Favre is still willing to help.

Moving through his homemade exhibit that details the evolution of his capsule from clunky prototype to the widely sold version shaped like a miniature bucket, the businessman seemed proud that Nespresso's current chief executive Jean-Marc Duvoisin made the trip to Saint Barthelemy two months ago.

Asked why a top Nespresso boss would visit him, Favre said: “to learn this story”.

CAKE

Kaffee und Kuchen: The history behind a very German tradition

This leisurely afternoon ritual is key to the German lifestyle.

Kaffee und Kuchen: The history behind a very German tradition
A family takes part in the Kaffee und Kuchen tradition in Zellingen, Bavaria. Photo: DPA

The mid-afternoon is a signal to many Germans for a traditional pick-me-up in the form of “Kaffee und Kuchen” – literally, coffee and cake. 

Be it with coworkers, friends, or family, the culture of “Kaffeeklatsch” (the act of catching up over the two delights) enjoys nationwide popularity, typically between the hours of 3 and 4pm. 

READ ALSO: Nine German treats you'll want to eat right now (and one you won't)

You might invite guests to your home to show off your own hand-baked goods, or if you prefer to trust someone else to take care of the baking instead, countless cafes and the more authentic ‘Konditorei’ are dotted all over the country – and as a general rule of thumb, the more old-fashioned, the better.

A typical selection at a Konditorei. Photo: DPA

A longstanding tradition

The origins of the beloved custom can be traced back to the 17th century, when coffee was first imported to Germany. In these times, it was only the aristocracy who would indulge in the pastime, but by the 19th century the indulgent treat became more accessible, and the combination has since become a cultural staple.

Whilst the working world often only allows for a quick, shop-bought treat during the week, Germans will often make use of the weekends to celebrate with large pots of coffee and a selection of delicious sweet treats.

READ ALSO: A brewing moment: Germany's baristas compete to create world's top coffee

And despite being somewhat comparable to the English custom of ‘afternoon tea’, the cakes you’ll find in Germany are nowhere near as dainty.

Expect to see a big slab of decadent Bienenstich, Erdbeertorte or Baumkuchen enticing you from behind the glass counter of the patisserie. 

Regional variations

Exactly how your ‘coffee and cake’ set-up may look differs across the country and time of year, as traditional German cakes vary according to both region and season. 

In the Black Forest, cafes are known for their Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte – indulgent layers of whipped cream and chocolate sponge (with added cherry liquor as the secret ingredient) are topped with chocolate shavings and cherries. 

A slice of Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte. Photo: DPA

In Bavaria, it’s the Prinzregententorte, which combines seven layers of sponge and chocolate buttercream to symbolise its seven districts, finished with apricot jam, dark chocolate and cream. 

Frankfurt’s speciality is the Frankfurter Kranz, a Bundt cake layered with jam and buttercream and sprinkled with caramelised nuts. Over the festive period, Germans enjoy Stollen, a Christmas speciality from Saxony – a fruit bread made of nuts, spices and dried fruit and coated with icing sugar. 

Bringing together the chance to catch up with friends and to sample some delicious German delicacies, indulging in ‘Kaffee und Kuchen’ really is the perfect way to spend your Mittagspause (afternoon break).

 
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