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ITALY

Six of the most bizarre Italian foods everyone should try

Italy's culinary history is incredibly rich and varied but with spaghetti alla carbonara and Neapolitan pizza stealing the limelight, many of the country's most weird and wonderful dishes go uneaten by foreigners.

Six of the most bizarre Italian foods everyone should try
Anyone for a slice of maggot-infested cheese. Photo: Rinux/Flickr

Here are six bizarre specialties from around the country which every gourmand worth their salt should try at least once – but be warned, they're not for the squeamish!

Pig's blood chocolate pudding: Sanguinaccio Dolce


Biscuits topped with sanguinaccio dolce. Photo: Snekes/Flickr

Sanguinaccio is the Italian version of what British people call 'black-pudding' and what Americans know as 'blood sausage' yet confusingly, sanguinaccio dolce doesn't contain a single sausage and is, in fact, a desert made from pig's blood and chocolate.

The dish is traditionally eaten in the run-up to Easter across much of Italy's centre-south, but is particularly associated with the region of Basilicata, on the instep of Italy's boot.

The recipe combines dark chocolate with pig's blood to make a rich, sweet and acidic cream, which can be eaten with savoiardi biscuits or used as a filling for shortcrust pastry tarts.

Maggot-infested cheese: Casu Marzu


Photo: Sharidan /Wikimedia

A must for all cheese lovers, Casu Marzu is a sheep's milk cheese derived from Sardinia's local specialty: Pecorino.

Making Casu Marzu is simple. Take a wheel of Pecorino, cut off the rind and then leave it outside for a couple of months – until flies start to lay their eggs inside.

Once the cheese fly, called Piophila casei, has laid thousands of eggs inside, the larvae hatch and set about fermenting the Pecorino – a process which involves eating the cheese, and then excreting it…while inside the wheel.

After a couple of months the cheese is soft, putrid and crawling with maggots.

Traditionally the cheese is eaten with the cracker-like flatbread, pane carasau – sometimes referred to a music paper bread – and has a flavour so strong the after-taste lasts for several hours.

It's not for the faint-hearted. The maggots are capable of leaping up to 15 cenimetres and can fly off in all directions as you try to take a bite.

Casu Marzu is the most famous of Italy's maggot fermented cheeses, but there are several similar cheeses produced across Italy, such as Gorgonzola coi grilli in Liguria, and Saltarello in Friuli.

The legal status of these cheeses is uncertain as they violate EU standards of food hygiene – so you won't find them in delicatessens or at the supermarket.

The cheeses are usually home-made by surviving pastoralists, so your best chance at trying these dying delicacies is to ask around when travelling through the rural backwaters of Italy.

Calf intestine stew: Pajata


Photo: Monica/Flickr

Pajata is a delicious Roman dish made from calves' intestines stewed in tomato sauce.

What makes the dish so special is that before arriving at the butchers' block the calves have not been weaned from their mothers and had only ever consumed milk.

A partially-digested milky residue called chyme remains in the calves' intestines and curdles as they are cooked, enriching the tomato sauce with a creamy cheese-like substance.

The steaming stew is normally served over a heap of chunky pasta tubes known as rigatoni and has only recently reappeared on the menus of Rome''s restaurants.

The dish was banned by the EU in 2001 over concerns about the spread of BSE.

Hairy greens: Agretti


Agretti, a seasonal treat. Photo: Wei-Duan Woo/Flickr

Another fascinating and little-known Italian food is agretti, which is also known as barba di frate, meaning friar's beard.

While that's a name that doesn't exactly get the mouth watering, the long needle-like green is succulent, earthy and difficult to find.

It only grows on short strips of saltwater irrigated land in Umbria and Lazio and hits Italian markets during a brief window each spring.

Historically, the curious looking veg was generally grown to be burnt, not eaten, as the ash from the plants used to be a key ingredient in soap and glass production. However, the plant has enjoyed a renaissance in Italian kitchens in recent years – and with good reason.

Blanched in boiling water and tossed in a pan with olive oil and lemon juice, its flavour really is unique.

Pure pig fat: Lardo di Colonnata


Dieters beware: lardo di Colonnata. Photo: Mon Oeil/Flickr

Instead of going for some delicious prosciutto – why not ask for for Lardo di Colonnata?

Nothing beats these delicious slices of pork fat cured with spices. There are many variations of lardo avaliable throughout Italy but the version from the Tuscan town of Colonnata is the most prized.

It's quite a delicacy, thanks to its mild, almost soapy flavour which makes it an excellent accompaniment to a glass of fine Italian wine.

Being pure pig fat, it is obviously not recommended for anyone who's on a diet: just four slices of the stuff contain a whopping 740 calories.

Spleen sandwiches: Pani ca meusa


Locals line up for a spleen sandwich. Photo: Franco Pecchio /Flickr

Pani ca meusa, meaning bread with spleen in Sicilian dialect, has to be one of Italy's most iconic, and admittedly off-putting, street foods.

Amid the ancient cobbled streets of Palermo's historic centre  several fast food places and ambling hawkers do a roaring trade in the spleen sandwich, which has been a mainstay of the western Sicilian diet for centuries.

The spleen is boiled and sliced before being cut into long black strips and fried in huge smoking vats.

Once cooked, it's lathered between two hunks of soft, white bread and the sandwich is topped off with heaps of creamy ricotta or cacciocavallo cheese.

The monster sandwich gives your jaw a good workout thanks to the leathery texture of the spleen and the flavour is something else entirely, a bit like liver, but not quite.
 

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FOOD AND DRINK

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

As well as its most famous cocktails, Italy has a long tradition of making refreshing aperitivo drinks without the alcohol.

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

Italy’s favourite aperitivo-hour cocktails are known far beyond the country’s borders, so their names will probably be familiar to you whether you drink them or not.

But if you’re in Italy and not drinking alcohol, you might find yourself stumped when it comes time to order your aperitivo at the bar.

The first time I found myself in this situation, there was no menu. The waiter instead rattled off a long list of all the soft drinks available, most of which I’d never heard of, and I just picked something I thought sounded nice.

Luckily it turns out that Italy has some great options for an aperitivo analcolico. As well as ‘virgin’ versions of well-known cocktails, there are bitters, sodas and other Italian-made soft drinks that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

They might not be quite as iconic as the Aperol Spritz, but they’re as thoroughly Italian – plus, effortlessly ordering one of these will make you look like a true local.

SanBittèr

San Pellegrino’s SanBittèr is one of the most famous non-alcoholic Italian drinks of all, with its highly-recognisable red packaging, often enjoyed in place of Campari cocktails because of its similar dark, ruby-red color.

This drink is carbonated with a slightly sweet, citrus flavor. The recipe is more complex than that of an orange or lemon soda, with notes of spice and herbs, making it ideal to pair with your aperitivo-hour snacks.

Crodino

Crodino looks a lot like an Aperol Spritz with its bright orange hue, and that’s not an accident: it’s said to have been created as a non-alcoholic alternative, and the zesty, slightly herbal taste is similar. It’s typically served the same way. in a round goblet glass over ice with a slice of orange: a Crodino Spritz.

The name comes from the town of Crodo in Piedmont, where it is still bottled today by the Campari group.

Chinotto

Citrusy Chinotto is an acquired taste for many, but it’s worth trying: it’s one of the classic Italian bitters and is said to have a long history, dating back to a recipe shared by Chinese sailors arriving on the Ligurian coast in the 1500s.

It may look a little like Coca Cola, but don’t let the appearance fool you.

(Photo by Eugene Gologursky /Getty Images via AFP)

Aranciata/Limonata

Aranciata is Italy’s version of an orange soda, but not as sugary, and it tastes like oranges. Its base is sparkling water with the addition of orange juice and sugar. There are various brands, but San Pellegrino’s is the most popular. It also sells a ‘bitter’ aranciata amaro, with even less sugar, more citrus tang and herbal notes, which might be more aperitivo-hour appropriate.

Limonata is, as you might guess, the Italian answer to lemonade. Again there are many versions out there but the fizzy San Pellegrino limonata is beloved for its strong, sweet-sour flavour and there’s nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day.

Cedrata

Cedrata is one of Italy’s oldest and best-known non-alcoholic drinks. It’s a refreshing, carbonated drink made from a large citrus fruit called a cedro, grown in southern Italy. It’s far less bitter than a Chinotto, but not as sweet as limonata.

The main producer of Cedrata today is Tassoni, and this is what you’re likely to get if you order it at a bar.

Gingerino

This is harder to find than the other aperitivi on the list and is seen as decidedly retro, but it’s worth trying if you can track it down.

It’s another orange-coloured, sparkling drink which became popular in Italy in the 1970s and is still sold today, though you’re more likely to find it in the north-east, close to Venice, where it’s produced.

You may be expecting it to taste a lot like ginger beer, and there are similarities, but it has stronger citrus notes and more bitterness.

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