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RECIPE

Fend off the bad weather with a Swedish beetroot salad

It's easy to let the rain get to you when it arrives out of nowhere in the Swedish summer, and there's no better pick me up than a hearty meal that's both colourful and tasty. Food writer John Duxbury's recipe for beetroot salad with cumin and feta ticks all the boxes.

Published: 27 May 2016 06:59 CEST

Fend off the bad weather with a Swedish beetroot salad

Beetroot salad with cumin and feta. Photo: John Duxbury/Swedish Food

Summary

Makes: Two portions as a side salad

Time: 10 minutes (including five minutes cooking)

Level: Very easy

Ingredients

125g (5 oz) peeled raw beetroot (3 or 4 small roots)

1 tsp butter

1 tbsp virgin olive oil

1 tsp cumin seeds

1 tsp sesame seeds

1 unwaxed lemon, zest and juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

100 g (4 oz) feta cheese, crumbled into chunks

1 tbsp freshly chopped herbs, such as mint, parsley or dill

Method

1. Peel the beetroots and finely grate in a food processor. (If you are grating them by hand take care as the juice can splash and stain clothing.)

2. Heat the butter and olive oil in a saucepan until the butter froths. Add the cumin and sesame seeds and cook gently for two minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Add the grated beetroot and turn the heat to low. Continue heating for 2 or 3 minutes stirring thoroughly.

4. Now turn off the heat and add the lemon zest and juice and then season with salt and black pepper.

5. Stir in half of the feta cheese.

6. Transfer to a serving dish or place on top of some toast.

7. Top with the remaining cheese and sprinkle with the herbs. (This salad is best when still warm, but it doesn’t need to be hot.)

This recipe was originally published on food writer John Duxbury’s Swedish Food website.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits.

SEE ALSO: What’s the tipping etiquette in Sweden?

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user).

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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