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How I went from teaching in Italy to working for the UN

When Englishman Jonathan Moody, 29, moved to Rome in September 2013 he had no clear plan. Three years later he is still in Rome – working for the UN's Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO).

How I went from teaching in Italy to working for the UN
Jonathan Moody's Italian odyssey has taken him from TEFL teacher to UN worker. Photo: Genevieve Lavoie Mathieu

What brought you to Italy?

I'd been teaching English in South America in 2012 and returned home on Christmas Eve, flat broke.

I started looking for jobs immediately and on January 7th headed out to Puglia to begin a new teaching job there.

I hadn't expected to be here after three years, but things can snowball….and they did.

How so?

Well, my girlfriend of seven years, Genevieve, was offered a one year master's in development at Roma Tre university, just after I finished teaching in Puglia. 

So in September 2013, we moved to the capital. When she finished her masters in 2013, she got an internship at the UN's World Food Programme, which then turned into a full-time job.

Since coming to Rome, I've had several different jobs but I've been working in internal communications at FAO since October last year. 

What kind of jobs have you had?

At first I was an English teacher – which was great. The pay's not great, but you get to interact with people all day long and the lifestyle is second to none. However, after doing it for years I'd become unsatisfied and didn't feel like I was doing anything constructive. I needed a new challenge.

I found a new job as a food tour guide in Rome's Trastevere area, which is probably the best job I've had. I got paid to tell groups about the history of the area while taking them to places where they could sample some of the best food and drink Rome has to offer.

After that, I found a job in communications with the NGO, Slow Food, but had to leave my girlfriend in Rome and move to Bra, Piedmont. I was employed to write, edit and translate articles for their English language websites.

Even though it was less fun than being a tour guide, it was closer to what I wanted to be doing – and I learned so much about the issues and politics surrounding food. After about eight months, I wanted to move back to Rome to be closer to my girlfriend and fortunately found a job at FAO doing internal communications.

My current job basically involves writing articles for the FAO's internal websites.

What would you say to someone thinking of moving to Italy?

The first thing I'd say is to relax about it. Moving to a new country isn't a big deal.

The second thing I'd say is to forget about money and career plans – at least in the short-term. I mean, I came without a clear plan but followed my passions for food and writing and have managed to find work.

I've been in Italy for nearly three years and it's honestly the most settled and happy I've felt since university. Lots of my university friends graduated and went to work in London's financial district. Perhaps I haven't been earning so much but in terms of experience it's been so varied.

What have been the biggest challenges and frustrations?

The language has been a challenge. I started studying when I moved to Puglia and learnt the basics pretty quickly. Since then though, I haven't been actively learning it.

I don't really struggle with it socially anymore, but there's still plenty I could be doing to improve.

As for frustrations, it's probably a cliché, but the bureaucracy drives me nuts. Even something simple like going to the bank can quickly turn into an ordeal in Italy. Also, simply crossing the road in Rome can feel like running the gauntlet.

In what ways has living in Italy changed you?

My lifestyle is probably more 'Italian' now – especially in terms of food. Before I came here I didn't drink coffee – but now happily have two or three sociable coffee-breaks each day.

I also eat dinner much later, which is something I only noticed recently when English friends came to visit and wanted to eat at 6pm, which by now is completely alien to me. 

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TRAVEL: How to visit the Pantheon in Rome

The Pantheon has introduced an entry fee for tourists for the first time this summer. Here's what to know about paying the historic site a visit.

TRAVEL: How to visit the Pantheon in Rome

If you’re planning to visit Rome’s Pantheon this summer, you’ll now need to purchase an entry ticket.

Since July 2023, visitors who aren’t resident in Rome have been subject to a €5 fee to be allowed access to the historic temple.

Here’s what you need to know to plan your visit.

Opening hours

The Pantheon is open almost every day of the year from 9am until 7pm, with last entry around half an hour before closing time (though the ticket office closes at 6pm).

Exceptions are August 15th (Italy’s Ferragosto holiday), Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day.

Tickets

Tickets can be bought online in advance, or on site.

To purchase a ticket online, you’ll need to go Italy’s State Museums website, here, and create an account.

Once that’s done, you’ll be taken to the Pantheon’s ticket calendar, where you’ll able to choose a slot between 9am and 6pm and pay by card.

You’ll then receive a ticket via email with a QR code that you can use to access the monument.

READ ALSO: TRAVEL: How to visit the Colosseum in Rome

The official Pantheon website says that tickets can also be purchased in person for the same price at the entrance to the site, using cash or card.

While there’s usually a queue to get into the Pantheon, it tends to move relatively quickly as the space inside is not huge; most visitors tend to stay for around 20-30 minutes.

If you want to purchase a guided tour, this can be done online via the website. Tours range in duration from 25 to 45 minutes, and cost between €15 and €30.50.

Rome's Pantheon will introduce an entry fee from July.

Rome’s Pantheon will introduce an entry fee from July. Photo by Alberto PIZZOLI / AFP.

Who doesn’t have to pay/gets a discount?

Under-18s are excluded from the entry fee requirement, subject to ID checks, as are Rome residents.

In the absence of clarification from the culture ministry, it’s likely that access will be granted to residents via a MIC card – a €5 card that gives residents one year’s free entry to many of Rome’s museums and historic sites.

As the Pantheon has been a consecrated Catholic church since 609 AD, Masses are held there, and worshippers will not be charged entry – though the site is closed to tourists during religious services.

READ ALSO: TRAVEL: Nine tips for making the most of a Rome city break

Teachers, students enrolled in courses relevant to the Pantheon, and disabled people and their carers will also be exempt from paying – see the culture ministry’s guidelines (in Italian) for more detail.

Young people between 18 and 25 years of age will be able to enter for €3, subject to ID checks.

How to get there

The closest metro stop to the Pantheon is Barberini on Metro Lina A, about 700m away.

The Pantheon is right in the heart of Rome and a short stroll from other sights such as the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain, and Piazza Navona.

Buses with routes that go along Via del Corso or the eastern side of the lungotevere, the roads flanking Rome’s River Tiber, will take visitors close to the site.

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