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TOURISM

Five reasons northern Sweden is actually amazing in summer

The Local's former northern Sweden correspondent Paul Connolly is shocked so few foreigners know about the summer charms of northern Sweden. Here he suggests five tips to persuade travellers they should change their itineraries.

Five reasons northern Sweden is actually amazing in summer
Credits: Friluftsbyn Höga Kusten/imagebank.sweden.se

Article first published in 2016.

Around this time of year I’m often asked to write pieces on summer in Sweden. “Talk about the wonderful beaches of Skåne,” ask the media I freelance for. “And be sure to mention the amazing islands off western Sweden and Stockholm’s wonderful archipelago.”

“Certainly,” I answer. “And how about something on the incredible scenery of the High Coast in northern Sweden? And the deserted sandy beaches all along the eastern coast of northern Sweden. And how about the unspoilt wilderness of the far north.”

“No, it’s too cold up there,” they’ll reply. “Let’s just stick with the south. Maybe we’ll do something on the north for a winter special.”

This is no exaggeration. Even supposedly clued-up travel editors from major publications struggle to understand that northern Sweden is not dark and frigid 52 weeks a year, that this beautiful region of Europe has some very desirable summer destinations, even as far north as Lapland.

So, in an attempt to redress the balance, here are five reasons I think you really should visit northern Sweden in the summer.

1. The High Coast (Höga Kusten)

The High Coast offers astonishing scenery. Photo: Hogakusten.com

Designated a world heritage site by Unesco in 2000, the High Coast is a spectacular upthrust of land from the usually flat northern Swedish coast. It has dozens of islands with little stugas dotted on tiny coves and beaches. The water is clear, the scenery ravishing and there are a number of very good restaurants within a 20-minute drive of the coast. 

2. Pite Havsbad

The north boasts hundreds of sandy beaches. Photo: Pite Havsbad Facebook

This family-friendly beach resort doesn’t need to bother courting publicity. It’s booked solid every year, largely by northern Swedish and Norwegian families, who are quite happy that this extremely well-appointed Mediterranean-style resort has no intention of spreading its fame any further south. There are also hundreds of other beaches dotted up and down the northern Swedish coastline, many of them carpeted in warm, white sand.

3. Storforsen

The spectacular Storforsen rapids. Photo: Tobias Lindman, Flickr

Visit here in late May or early June to see one of Europe’s biggest rapids hurling meltwater down an 80m drop at a rate of nearly 900 cubic metres a second. The roaring falls, which can be approached by wooden walkboards, form part of a national park. Book a room at Hotell Storforsen at the base of the rapids for a real room with a view.

4. Kungsleden

The hiking in the north provides views of extraordinary beauty. Photo: Mikko Lindstedt, Flickr

The 81km stretch of the vast Kungsleden hiking trail, between Saltoluokta and Kvikkjokk, takes four to five days to hike. It’s an astonishingly beautiful and peaceful route on the edge of Sarek national park – often cited as Western Europe’s last wilderness.

5. Any lake or river in the north
My sister enjoying a dip in the lake at the bottom of our garden. Photo: Private

We live on the edge of a lake which, if it were in the UK, would be thronged year-round by tourists. We have access to a lovely sandy beach where the water is surprisingly warm from June onwards. There is even a swimming platform. That the beach is almost always deserted is due to the fact that there are just so many lake and river beaches in northern Sweden, there’s simply no need to share. Rent a local house for 2,000 kronor ($250) a week and doze away your days at a nearby beach. Heaven!

FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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