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Frothing up Italian coffee: Starbucks is on its way

It was Italy, and more pertinently, the country’s coffee culture, that inspired Howard Shultz to start his Starbucks empire 33 years ago.

Frothing up Italian coffee: Starbucks is on its way
Starbucks will open its first store in Milan in 2017. Photo: Leon Neal/AFP

“Starbucks' history is directly linked to the way the Italians created and executed the perfect shot of espresso,” Shultz said in a press release on Monday.

Now, having conquered much of the world, he is finally bringing the coffee chain to Italy, with the first store due to open in Milan in 2017.

Frapuccinos and flavoured lattés will now be served up thanks to a deal orchestrated by the ex-footballer and entrepreneur Antonio Percassi.

Under a licensee partnership, his company, Percassi, will own and operate the Starbucks stores.

During his trip to Milan and Verona in the early 1980s, Shultz was “inspired by the craftsmanship of the Milanese barista, the spirit of the Italian people, their passion for community, their friendliness and taste for quality”.

Starbucks' founder Howard Shultz has long dreamed of bringing his coffee chain to Italy. Photo: Starbucks

“Everything that we’ve done sits on the foundation of those wonderful experiences that many of us have had in Italy,” he said.

Aware of the pride Italians have in their coffee culture, Shultz added that the first branch will be “designed with painstaking detail and great respect for the Italian people and coffee culture”.

“And, my hope is that we will create a sense of pride for our partners – so much so that every partner who sees our store or walks through the doors will say: ‘We got it right.’”

Rumours of Starbucks' arrival late last year were mostly shrugged off, with one Rome bar owner telling The Local that “Italians will never pay three times the price for something that we can do better for a fraction of the cost.”

But Percassi is ready for the challenge.

“We know that we are going to face a unique challenge with the opening of the first Starbucks store in Italy, the country of coffee,” he said.

“But we are confident that Italian people are ready to live the Starbucks experience, as already occurs in many other markets.”

Despite the reservations, the concept could work well in a country that attracts lots of visitors, Bill Paige, a consultant at Francorp, a global franchise consultancy firm, recently told The Local.

“In Italy there's some of the finest coffee there is – but there are also lots of tourists, and it would be a comfort to them.

“Some are going to love it and some are going to hate it.”

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CAKE

Kaffee und Kuchen: The history behind a very German tradition

This leisurely afternoon ritual is key to the German lifestyle.

Kaffee und Kuchen: The history behind a very German tradition
A family takes part in the Kaffee und Kuchen tradition in Zellingen, Bavaria. Photo: DPA

The mid-afternoon is a signal to many Germans for a traditional pick-me-up in the form of “Kaffee und Kuchen” – literally, coffee and cake. 

Be it with coworkers, friends, or family, the culture of “Kaffeeklatsch” (the act of catching up over the two delights) enjoys nationwide popularity, typically between the hours of 3 and 4pm. 

READ ALSO: Nine German treats you'll want to eat right now (and one you won't)

You might invite guests to your home to show off your own hand-baked goods, or if you prefer to trust someone else to take care of the baking instead, countless cafes and the more authentic ‘Konditorei’ are dotted all over the country – and as a general rule of thumb, the more old-fashioned, the better.

A typical selection at a Konditorei. Photo: DPA

A longstanding tradition

The origins of the beloved custom can be traced back to the 17th century, when coffee was first imported to Germany. In these times, it was only the aristocracy who would indulge in the pastime, but by the 19th century the indulgent treat became more accessible, and the combination has since become a cultural staple.

Whilst the working world often only allows for a quick, shop-bought treat during the week, Germans will often make use of the weekends to celebrate with large pots of coffee and a selection of delicious sweet treats.

READ ALSO: A brewing moment: Germany's baristas compete to create world's top coffee

And despite being somewhat comparable to the English custom of ‘afternoon tea’, the cakes you’ll find in Germany are nowhere near as dainty.

Expect to see a big slab of decadent Bienenstich, Erdbeertorte or Baumkuchen enticing you from behind the glass counter of the patisserie. 

Regional variations

Exactly how your ‘coffee and cake’ set-up may look differs across the country and time of year, as traditional German cakes vary according to both region and season. 

In the Black Forest, cafes are known for their Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte – indulgent layers of whipped cream and chocolate sponge (with added cherry liquor as the secret ingredient) are topped with chocolate shavings and cherries. 

A slice of Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte. Photo: DPA

In Bavaria, it’s the Prinzregententorte, which combines seven layers of sponge and chocolate buttercream to symbolise its seven districts, finished with apricot jam, dark chocolate and cream. 

Frankfurt’s speciality is the Frankfurter Kranz, a Bundt cake layered with jam and buttercream and sprinkled with caramelised nuts. Over the festive period, Germans enjoy Stollen, a Christmas speciality from Saxony – a fruit bread made of nuts, spices and dried fruit and coated with icing sugar. 

Bringing together the chance to catch up with friends and to sample some delicious German delicacies, indulging in ‘Kaffee und Kuchen’ really is the perfect way to spend your Mittagspause (afternoon break).

 
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