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FASHION

Renzi struts his stuff at Milan fashion week opener

Milan fashion week kicked off on a colourful note on Wednesday as Blugirl designer Anna Molinari extended the hedonistic feel of her spring collection into her outfits for next fall and winter.

Renzi struts his stuff at Milan fashion week opener
Fashion week has kicked off in Milan. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP

Three-quarter length raincoats came in floral and other vibrant prints while the collection for the younger sister to Molinari's Blumarine brand was also dotted with bright Nordic-inspired knitwear.
   
Molinari declared last year that it was time for Italian fashion to loosen up a little and have some fun after years of gloom created by a triple-dip recession and a sense that Milan was losing its edge creatively and in terms of its rivalry with Paris and fast-rising London and New York.
   
That pessimism appears to have been banished this year with commentators talking up a new generation of younger designers emerging to pick up the baton from veterans such as Molinari, Miuccia Prada and Giorgio Armani.
   
The upbeat mood has also been bolstered by what many industry insiders see as belated government recognition of the importance of fashion to the Italian economy.
   
The perceived shift in attitude was underlined on Wednesday by the presence of Prime Minister Matteo Renzi at the official opening lunch for the fashion week.
   
Italy's textiles, clothing, leather goods and footwear sectors generated a remarkable €61.2 billion euros in 2014, the last year for which definitive figures are available.
   
The 2015 figure is forecast to be up on that by between 1.4 percent — the conservative figure from the national chamber of fashion – and the seven percent that independent analysts see as more likely. Around three quarters of all sales are exports.
   
Top of the pecking order among the young guns is Alessandro Michele whose latest work for Gucci, the global megabrand he is credited with completely reinventing, was the mostly keenly awaited collection due to be unveiled on the first of six days of shows.

City buzzing

While Michele was putting the final touches to his fashionably delayed catwalk set, Renzi was clinking glasses with designers, manufacturers and representatives from the regions where high value-added textiles are key components of the local economy.
   
More than 182 collections will be unveiled to buyers, media and fashion obsessives from all over the world over the course of the next six days with 74 catwalk shows staged in every available venue across Italy's economic capital, itself still buzzing after the success of last year's World Expo.
   
“It is the highest level of participation we have had since 2009,” noted a delighted Carlo Capasa, chairman of the national Chamber of Fashion.
   
The actual number of collections is higher than the 182 registered by the chamber: those outside the official structures include Dolce and Gabbana and many up-and-coming young designers looking for a break.
   
With Italy returning to, albeit timid, growth last year trade body Sistema Moda Italia (SMI) is predicting a rise in Italian womenswear sales for 2015 of 2.8 percent to €12.8 billion euros.
   
“The interesting aspect of it is that there has been a revival in the domestic market which is encouraging looking forward to the coming years,” said SMI chief Gianfranco di Natale.
   
“We have felt optimism coming back in the recent trade fairs held in Milan.”
   
The city's payoff for hosting hundreds of thousands of extra visitors during the Expo was meanwhile reflected in a recent Boston Consulting Group study for the Italian luxury sector's collective body, Altagamma.
   
Thanks to the Expo effect, Milan has gone from fifth preferred destination of shoppers for luxury goods to third, with the improvement registered most strongly among prosperous young people who appear to have been convinced that the city is much cooler and trendier than it previously appeared.

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FASHION

Paris exhibition celebrates 100 years of French Vogue

A new exhibition in Paris will tell the story of 100 years of French Vogue - from the post-war 'New Look' of Christian Dior through the sexual liberation of the 1960s to the dangling-cigarette waifs of the 2000s.

French Vogue celebrates 100 years
French Vogue celebrates 100 years. Photo: Thomas Olva/AFP

But as well as celebrating the magazine’s storied history, the exhibit comes at a time of turbulence for the publication.

Just last month, it was confirmed that its editor of 10 years, Emmanuelle Alt, was out and wouldn’t be replaced.

She was not alone.

Looking to cut costs, owner Conde Nast International has axed editors across Europe over the past year, and put international Vogue editions under the direct control of global editorial director, Anna Wintour, in New York.

New York-based Anna Wintour now has overall control of French Vogue. Photo by Christophe ARCHAMBAULT / AFP

Like much of the media industry, Vogue is struggling with tumbling sales and ad revenue in the digital era.

But the latest twist is also part of the endless push and pull between New York and Paris going back to its early days.

“The whole history of French Vogue is one of back-and-forth with Conde Nast in New York – growing more independent for a while, then being reined back in,” said Sylvie Lecallier, curator of the new exhibition, “Vogue Paris 1920-2020″, which opened this weekend after a year’s delay due to the pandemic.

The Paris edition was often the loftier, more bohemian sibling to its more hard-nosed New York version.

But it was also the hotbed in which much of 20th century style and womenhood came to be defined.

“Paris was the place to hunt out talent and content and bring it to New York,” said Lecallier.

The exhibition charts the evolution from art deco drawings of the 1920s through the erotic image-making of photographers like Helmut Newton in the 1960s and 1970s.

Its last peak was under editor Carine Roitfeld in the 2000s, who brought back a provocative Gallic identity by ridding the newsroom of foreign staff and becoming a fashion icon in her own right.

Her successor, Alt, was a quieter presence, though she still oversaw key moments including its first transgender cover star, Brazilian Valentina Sampaio, in 2017.

But internet culture has created “a perfect storm” for Vogue, says media expert Douglas McCabe of Enders Analysis.

“The first 80 years of Vogue’s life, it had the market to itself, it was the bible for fashion,” McCabe told AFP.

“But online today, there are so many other ways to get your information. Influencers, Instagram, YouTube — everyone’s a threat.”

In a world where new fashion trends can blow up around the world in seconds, it has become much harder for a monthly magazine to set the pace.

“It’s not that they can’t survive for another 100 years — but they will be differently sized,” McCabe said.

Vogue has tried to branch out into different areas, including events.

“I used to work for a magazine, and today I work for a brand,” Alt said on the eve of French Vogue’s 1,000th issue in 2019.

But the big money was always in print, and Vogue Paris sales are dropping steadily from 98,345 in 2017 to 81,962 to 2020, according to data site ACPM.

It is perhaps unsurprising that the new top job in Paris, redefined as “head of editorial content”, went to Eugenie Trochu, who was key to building the magazine’s online presence.

She declared herself “thrilled to be part of Vogue’s international transformation”.

For the curator of the exhibition, it is ironic timing.

“We had no idea it would end like this when we started work on the exhibition,” said Lecallier.

“Who knows where it will go from here.”

The exhibition Vogue Paris 1920-2020 is at the Palais Galliera in Paris’ 16th arrondissement. The gallery is open 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Sunday and is closed on Mondays. Tickets for the exhibition are €14 (€12 for concessions and under 18s go free) and must be reserved online in advance. 

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