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How to make southern Sweden’s farmers’ egg cake

Food writer John Duxbury shares his favourite recipe for traditional southern Swedish egg cake served with pork and lingonberries.

Published: 19 February 2016 06:59 CET
Updated: 26 September 2020 08:59 CEST

How to make southern Sweden's farmers' egg cake

Southern Swedish egg cake. Photo: John Duxbury/Swedish Food

Äggakaga (egg cake) is a traditional dish originating from Skåne in southern Sweden. You can eat it any time of the year and it is best served hot straight from the pan, but at one time it was made for farm labourers helping with the harvest in autumn, because it could easily be wrapped up and eaten in a field for lunch.

In Skåne it is called äggakaga, but in the rest of Sweden it is called äggakaka. Skåne was ruled by the Danes for many years and so some of their words and their dialect still have a Danish influence. When they pronounce it, it sounds more like äggakaga (or even äggakauga), which is how they spell it.

Summary

Serves: 4

Preparation: 5 minutes

Cooking: 35 minutes

Ingredients

600g unsmoked streaky bacon

150g plain flour

1 ½ tsp salt

700ml milk

8 eggs

3 tbsp butter

240ml lingonberries (or lingonberry jam)

Method

1. Cooking äggakaga needs all your attention, so fry the bacon first (in two batches if necessary), pat dry with a kitchen towel and keep warm.

2. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, salt and half the milk together until you have a thin lump-free batter.

3. Whisk in the rest of the milk and the eggs.

4. Heat a frying pan over a high heat. Add two tablespoons of butter and wait until it turns nut-brown. Reduce the heat to half.

5. Pour in the batter and using a wooden spoon or spatula lightly lift up the egg from the bottom of the pan as it cooks, so that eventually all the egg is cooked. Only stir from the middle, leaving the edges to firm up and hold the shape of the äggakaga. Keep an eye on the bottom to ensure it doesn't get burned. Once all the egg is cooked and no runny egg remains, raise the heat a bit, scape down the edges of the äggakaga and generally tidy up the appearance. Check that the underside is nicely browned and then gently ease the edges away from the side of the pan.

6. Take a large plate and rinse it in cold water. Put the plate on top of the pan and wait for one minute. Turn the pan quickly, so that the äggakaga ends up bottom-side up on the plate.

7. Add the remaining tablespoon of butter to the pan and when melted slide the äggakaga back into the pan. Tidy it up again and fry for another minute or so until the bottom is golden brown, shaking the pan occasionally.

8. Cut the äggakaga into eight wedges and serve directly from the pan. Top the wedges with fried bacon and garnish with lingonberries and chopped chives.

Tips

– Swedes usually serve äggakaga with fried slices of rimmat sidfläsk (salted pork). I have suggested using streaky bacon which looks similar, isn't quite as salty and is generally much easier to obtain. However, if you can find some salted pork, I suggest you try both to see which you prefer.

– Äggakaga is much easier to cook in an oven, but the flavour and texture tend not to be quite as good. To do so, preheat your oven to 220C, pour the batter into a buttered ovenproof dish and bake for 20-25 minutes, until the egg is set.

– Serve äggakaga with apple wedges that have been fried in butter or the bacon fat. As apples grow well in Skåne, this is especially popular in southern Sweden.

This recipe was provided courtesy of John Duxbury, founder and editor of the Swedish Food website

How to grow your own fruits and vegetables in Sweden

Know your growing zone

Sweden is split into eight different growing zones, known as växtzoner in Swedish, with one being the mildest zone in the far south of the country and eight being the harshest, in the far north.

The easiest way to figure out which zone you live in is to search your address on a digital growing zone chart like this one from the Swedish Garden Association.

There are two “bonus” zones too, which you’re unlikely to see on plant labels: zone zero, which refers to extra mild conditions in zone one, like a sheltered south-facing garden or the climate inside an unheated greenhouse, and the fjällzon or zone nine, which is found in mountain regions.

Lots of fruit trees can handle snow, for example, but not all of them will survive the winters in harsher, colder zones.

“Apple trees or fruit trees will survive snow,” British gardener and cider maker John Taylor, known for presenting Swedish gardening show Trädgårdstider (Garden Times), told The Local.

“You can grow all kinds of apples, pears, plums, cherries, we can grow edible quince in southern Sweden, so there’s a bunch of fruit trees which will survive, but it depends what rootstock they’re on – that’s called grundstam in Swedish,” he explained.

“There’s one rootstock called B9 that survives down to minus 40, because it’s from Russia, then there’s another called M106, and that probably doesn’t want to live in the depths of Norrland.”

Buy plants local to you

An easy way to make sure the plant you’re planning on buying is going to survive in your zone is by sourcing it from a local plant nursery or garden centre, as they won’t sell plants that can’t handle the local climate.

“There’s a nursery in the north of Sweden and Finland called Blomkvists, they sell lots of fruit varieties which will survive up there,” Taylor said. “You can grow pretty much anything you want up there, just as we can [in Skåne, southern Sweden], but it will be different varieties that taste different and will survive the frost.”

You won’t be able to grow Mediterranean fruits like lemons or oranges in Sweden unless you bring them inside during the winter, although you should be able to grow peaches or nectarines in most of the country.

“The further up in the country you go, the further north you are or the further away from the coast, the harsher the climate becomes, so you might need to have them on a south-facing wall or in a greenhouse,” Taylor said.

Think outside the box

Although the growing season in Sweden may be shorter than it is further south, there are still a number of crops from warmer climates that do surprisingly well.

“People don’t really grow cucumbers outside here, I don’t think they realise that you can actually grow them outside,” Taylor said. “Tomatoes, too. You don’t need a greenhouse, you just stick them in the ground, they’re basically a weed – you’ll get so many you won’t know what to do with them.”

Sweetcorn, for example, performs well in a Swedish climate, Taylor said, although Swedes more often grow it as a feed crop for pigs.

You can also test things by trying to build a microclimate so you can grow things that are one or even two growing zones away from yours. Usually this is done by providing shelter from the wind and the weather using fences, hedges or by planting near buildings, as well as providing protection during the winter.

And if you’re pushed for space, look into companion planting, where you can grow multiple plants which complement each other in the same space.

One example of this is the “three sisters”: corn, climbing beans (or peas), and squash. The corn provides a support for the beans or peas, which anchor the corn in high winds while fixing nitrogen in the soil, while the squash’s large leaves provide shade for the soil, preventing it from drying out.

Don’t be put off just because you don’t have any outside space

Thinking outside the box applies to balconies too.

“If you’re in a built-up area, you will get reflected light from other buildings, so even if you’re on an east-facing balcony, you should be able to grow a lot of stuff. North is a bit more tricky, but east and west are probably better than south as you’re not getting hammered by the sun all day,” Taylor said.

You should be able to grow things like tomatoes, cucumbers and flowers, but it’s important to get hold of good soil and replenish it each year, so your plants have enough nutrients.

“Anybody with a balcony can grow pretty much the same that you can in a garden, you just have to get the soil up there and you always have to fertilise, the soil becomes nutrient deficient after one season.”

“But if you’re prepared to get the soil up on your balcony you can grow anything, even fruit trees. They will be smaller and stunted, and won’t give as much fruit – I’ve done it myself – so don’t see it as an obstacle, see it as a possibility.”

Kale and tomatoes growing on a balcony. Photo: Johan Nilsson/TT

Take inspiration from Swedish growers

Thinking outside the box doesn’t mean that you should completely ignore what all your Swedish neighbours are doing. If you’re not sure what to plant in your garden or what fruit and veg you should try to grow, take a look at what other people who live near you are growing.

You might also come across some crops you’ve never tried before which work well in a Swedish climate, like Alpine strawberries (smultron), honeyberries (blåbärstry), wild garlic (ramslök) or sea buckthorn (havtorn).

This doesn’t just apply to varieties, but also where you plant them in your garden. Some crops need full sun, some work best in shade, and others, like asparagus, can grow tall and cast a shadow over your garden.

“You want a south-facing location for all fruit, and berries – check out what your neighbours are doing,” Taylor said.

If you don’t want tall plants to cast a shadow over other crops, see if you can plant them at the northernmost edge of your garden, while making sure that sun and soil conditions are still optimal. Blueberries, for example, need acidic soil to thrive, meaning you will probably need to amend your soil if planting in the ground, or even plant them in containers.

Think about what you want to do with your harvest

This may seem obvious, but it’s important to plant what you like to eat, too. If you hate the aniseedy, licorice-y taste of fennel, why bother growing it?

You should also choose the variety of crop based on what you’re going to use it for. Do you want to make pickles with your cucumbers, or are you going to eat them on salads? Do you want cherry tomatoes for snacking on, or big beef tomatoes for making sauces?

“Think ‘what am I going to do with my harvest’,” Taylor said. “Am I going to juice it? Am I going to preserve it? Am I going to make cider with it, for example?”

Apples, for example, can range from sweet eating apples to tart cooking apples, so make sure you do your research before you commit to buying an apple tree. Most varieties exist in English-speaking countries, so you should be able to search the name of the variety online and find some information in a language you understand, if you don’t speak Swedish.

“Patience is a virtue,” he added. “A lot of fruit trees are going to take two or three years, or even more, to give a harvest. So you have to have patience.”

Learn to deal with the Swedish weather

Many areas of Sweden along the coast or in the south of the country can get windy, which you’ll have to learn to deal with.

“How to deal with the wind? You can’t,” Taylor said. “We cannot affect this, we are powerless.”

“What you have to do is plant them in areas where there’s less wind, usually behind large buildings.”

Some plants simply won’t survive the wind, so either you plant them close to buildings, protect them, or accept that you’re restricted in what you can grow.

Make sure to provide supports for crops which will grow tall, like sunflowers, peas, beans and sweetcorn, and tie these down well or bury them deep in the ground, so summer storms can’t blow them away.

Listen to the full interview with John Taylor in The Local’s Sweden in Focus Extra podcast for Membership+ subscribers. Out on Wednesday, May 8th.

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