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Every fourth Vienna cafe ‘forced to close’

Vienna is famous for its coffee house culture, which has even been recognised by Unesco as part of Austria’s cultural heritage, but many of its cafes are struggling to survive.

Every fourth Vienna cafe 'forced to close'
Vienna's Café Bräunerhof. Photo: Andreas Praefcke/Wikipedia

Every year one in four cafes is forced to close, according to new figures from the Vienna Chamber of Commerce.

Berndt Querfeld, who owns the historic Cafe Landtmann on the Ringstrasse and represents coffee houses in the Chamber of Commerce told the Kurier newspaper that the majority of the 2,500 coffee houses in Vienna are finding it hard to make ends meet. “The ones that are doing best are the around 120 or 130 historic coffee houses in the most favourable locations,” he said.

However, despite some cafes having to close up shop the total number of coffee houses remains around the same because of the relatively high number of new cafes opening each year. “Many of these only last for about six months,” Querfeld said. He added that newcomers on the scene underestimate the challenges that lie ahead, and some simply close down their business to avoid paying a high tax bill.

According to Querfeld some of the reasons why cafes are suffering are the stricter rules regarding non-smoking areas, the new EU law which means they have to label all ingredients that contain allergens, and the introduction of compulsory cash registers as part of the tax reform.

The economic crisis has made punters behave more frugally when visiting a coffee house. “More often than not a customer will order a piece of cake with a second fork for their companion. It’s even becoming a rather chic thing to do.”

Slot machines have also been banned from cafes recently, and Querfeld believes that this is putting many smaller cafes in less central locations out of business. “If they had a slot machine or two they could afford to sell snacks and drinks at lower prices, but this isn’t the case anymore.”

The heyday of the Vienna coffee house was the turn of the 19th century when they were frequented by well-known writers, artists and politicians. Many famous Viennese cafes had to close in the 1950s due to the popularity of television and new espresso bars.

READ MORE: Five unusual cafes not to miss in Vienna

CAKE

Kaffee und Kuchen: The history behind a very German tradition

This leisurely afternoon ritual is key to the German lifestyle.

Kaffee und Kuchen: The history behind a very German tradition
A family takes part in the Kaffee und Kuchen tradition in Zellingen, Bavaria. Photo: DPA

The mid-afternoon is a signal to many Germans for a traditional pick-me-up in the form of “Kaffee und Kuchen” – literally, coffee and cake. 

Be it with coworkers, friends, or family, the culture of “Kaffeeklatsch” (the act of catching up over the two delights) enjoys nationwide popularity, typically between the hours of 3 and 4pm. 

READ ALSO: Nine German treats you'll want to eat right now (and one you won't)

You might invite guests to your home to show off your own hand-baked goods, or if you prefer to trust someone else to take care of the baking instead, countless cafes and the more authentic ‘Konditorei’ are dotted all over the country – and as a general rule of thumb, the more old-fashioned, the better.

A typical selection at a Konditorei. Photo: DPA

A longstanding tradition

The origins of the beloved custom can be traced back to the 17th century, when coffee was first imported to Germany. In these times, it was only the aristocracy who would indulge in the pastime, but by the 19th century the indulgent treat became more accessible, and the combination has since become a cultural staple.

Whilst the working world often only allows for a quick, shop-bought treat during the week, Germans will often make use of the weekends to celebrate with large pots of coffee and a selection of delicious sweet treats.

READ ALSO: A brewing moment: Germany's baristas compete to create world's top coffee

And despite being somewhat comparable to the English custom of ‘afternoon tea’, the cakes you’ll find in Germany are nowhere near as dainty.

Expect to see a big slab of decadent Bienenstich, Erdbeertorte or Baumkuchen enticing you from behind the glass counter of the patisserie. 

Regional variations

Exactly how your ‘coffee and cake’ set-up may look differs across the country and time of year, as traditional German cakes vary according to both region and season. 

In the Black Forest, cafes are known for their Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte – indulgent layers of whipped cream and chocolate sponge (with added cherry liquor as the secret ingredient) are topped with chocolate shavings and cherries. 

A slice of Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte. Photo: DPA

In Bavaria, it’s the Prinzregententorte, which combines seven layers of sponge and chocolate buttercream to symbolise its seven districts, finished with apricot jam, dark chocolate and cream. 

Frankfurt’s speciality is the Frankfurter Kranz, a Bundt cake layered with jam and buttercream and sprinkled with caramelised nuts. Over the festive period, Germans enjoy Stollen, a Christmas speciality from Saxony – a fruit bread made of nuts, spices and dried fruit and coated with icing sugar. 

Bringing together the chance to catch up with friends and to sample some delicious German delicacies, indulging in ‘Kaffee und Kuchen’ really is the perfect way to spend your Mittagspause (afternoon break).

 
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