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CHRISTMAS

RECIPE: How to make Swedish lussekatter

Swedes love traditional Lucia saffron buns (lussekatter) on December 13th. Food writer John Duxbury shares his favourite recipe with The Local.

RECIPE: How to make Swedish lussekatter
Swedish Lucia buns are delicious. Photo: Maskot/Folio/imagebank.sweden

Summary

Makes: 12 buns

Time needed: 40 minutes (+ 2-3 hours proving time)

Ingredients

0.4-0.5 g (1 tsp) saffron threads (usually sold in 0.4 or 0.5 g packets)

240 ml (1 cup) whole milk (4%)

75 g (3/4 stick) unsalted (sweet) butter*

500 g (4 cups) strong (bread) flour

50 g (1/4 cup) golden caster (superfine) sugar

1 tsp baking powder

10 g (2 ½ tsp) ‘quick’ or ‘fast action’ dried yeast

1 tsp salt

24 raisins

1 beaten egg, to glaze

*Reduce amount of unsalted sweet butter to 50 g (1/2 stick) if adding Quark cheese

Method

1. Heat the saffron threads and milk until warm. Leave to cool for 10 minutes.

2. Melt the butter separately, allow to cool slightly, then stir into the milk mixture.    

3. Sift the flour into a bowl. Add the sugar and baking powder and mix.   

4. Add the yeast to one side of the bowl and the salt to the other. Keep apart initially as salt can kill yeast. Mix.

5. Stir in the milk mixture and quark cheese if using. Bring together to form a dough.

6. Knead the dough on a floured surface for five minutes. Put the dough back in the bowl and cover with cling film or a kitchen towel and leave in a warm, draught-free place for 1 ½ hours, or until doubled in size.

7. Grease two baking trays.

8. Tip the dough out onto a floured surface and punch one or twice to knock it back. Divide into 12.

9. Roll out each piece so that it’s about 25 cm long. Shape into tight S shapes. Place on the baking sheets and add a raisin into the centre of each of the two coils. Cover loosely and leave for 45 minutes, or until doubled in size.

10. Preheat the oven to 220C.

11. Brush the buns with the beaten egg and bake for 7-10 minutes until golden brown and the undersides sound hollow when tapped. Leave to cool on a wire rack.

Tips

– The lussekatter are best enjoyed when slightly warm. Don’t be afraid to reheat them in a microwave for a few seconds. Serve with cold milk or glögg.

– Saffron buns can get fairly dry and hard, especially when reheated. For a less authentic version (which is becoming increasingly popular in Sweden) add 100 g of quark cheese as it helps to make the buns softer and lighter. You could also add a tray of boiling water to the bottom of the oven before baking the buns to help keep them moist. Saffron is cheaper in Sweden than some other countries, so why not pick up a few packets if you’re visiting? 

Recipe courtesy of John Duxbury, Editor and Founder of Swedish Food

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FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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