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MONTREUX

Five reasons to visit Montreux — jazz aside

Montreux is famed for its summer jazz festival but expat resident Marianne Burkhardt says there are five great reasons to visit this Swiss town with its spectacular lake-meets-mountain scenery — in the winter.

Five reasons to visit Montreux —  jazz aside
Montreux's Christmas market ran until December 24th. Photo: Montreuxriviera.com

Christmas market: November 20th — December 24th

Montreux’s month-long Christmas market attracts some 420,000 people each year. 

Fairylight-festooned chalets line the lakeside and high street and the air fills with the rich fragrance of mulled wine. 

The 150 chalets sell everything from oysters and champagne to festive decorations, jewellery and clothes, while a ferris wheel offers a swooping bird’s eye view over Lake Geneva and the hills beyond Montreux.

British expat Laura Pearman has visited the market since it began in 1994.

”It’s a great build-up to Christmas and it improves every year, “ she tells The Local.

Food is omnipresent, ranging from wood-fired pizzas in the Lumberjack Cabin to seafood, mouth-wateringly displayed outside the restaurant La Rouvenaz.

Further along the lakeside, Chillon Castle stages medieval entertainment over the first three weekends in December. Knights and jugglers welcome visitors into the castle’s cobbled courtyards, meat roasts on spits and costumed craftspeople show off their skills.

From Montreux, families can board a train to the Christmas Village in Caux at an altitude of 1,000 metres.

Attractions there include Santa’s post office and encounters with elves and animals.

For more information, check here.

Permanent exhibition “Queen: the studio experience”, Casino Barrière

British rock band Queen first recorded at Montreux’s Mountain Studios in 1978 and bought the facility a few months later.

When a studio staff member asked the new owners what they were going to do with it, the flamboyant Freddie Mercury replied: “Chuck it in the lake dear – this place is so boring!”

But Mercury grew to like Montreux and even bought an apartment there. Between 1979 until Mercury’s death from AIDS in 1991, Queen recorded seven albums at Mountain Studios, whose clients included the Rolling Stones, Iggy Pop and David Bowie.

“Queen: the studio experience” traces the Montreux years of the band’s career with memorabilia, hand-written lyrics, stage costumes and instruments.

A video combines concert footage with the band’s anecdotes about Mercury, Montreux and making music. In the studio’s original control room, a mixing desk enables you to create your own versions of Queen tracks.

The exhibition, dedicated to Mercury, was mounted by the Mercury Phoenix Trust, the AIDS charity set up by Queen members Roger Taylor and Brian May and their manager.

Vicky Vocat, the trust’s spokesperson, worked at Mountain Studios from 1980 until it was sold in 1992.

“They were extraordinary years,” she tells The Local. “Queen were very perfectionist and I never had time to ask myself what it was like to work for a superstar band.”

Whether you’re a Queen fan or not, this exhibition gives fascinating insight into an important time in the history of one of the world’s best-selling bands.

Admission is free but visitors are encouraged to make a donation to the Mercury Phoenix Trust, which has funded more than 800 AIDS-related projects worldwide.

For more information, check here.

Clinique La Prairie’s Medical Spa


Photo: Clinique La Prairie

The rich and famous have for decades sought rejuvenation at Clinique La Prairie, a short lakeside walk from the town centre. The clinic’s 1,600-square-metre multiple award-winning medical spa was entirely refurbished in 2013 and combines tasteful minimalism with relaxing muted colours.

Pampering here is high tech. It serves as a complement to the clinic’s medical programmes or a treat for guests of a few hours or days.

Facilities include a natural light-flooded indoor pool area, a fitness centre with a TRX room, saunas, a fragrant mist shower and a LED phototherapy room.

A Kneipp path — a series of pebble-lined basins containing water at different temperatures — is negotiated with bare feet to alternately relax and invigorate them and stimulate blood circulation.

Included in the vast array of treatments and programmes are seven-hour “Spa Journeys” and three-hour “Spa Days”, which both include lunch at the Spa Café and use of all the facilities.

A Spa Day consists of one of four different facials or body treatments and cellular “photostimulation” to boost collagen production.

Spa Journeys are offered in male or female versions and a third is Thai-themed.

For more information, check here.

Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Hotel


Photo: Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Hotel

When you enter Fairmont Le Montreux Palace Hotel, you follow in the footsteps of celebrities of the past 109 years. Its lavish, soaring-ceilinged Belle Epoque architecture has hosted European aristocrats, Russian princes, actors, politicians and a multitude of music megastars.

The vast lobby and three metre-wide corridors were designed to give crinoline-clad female guests space to move around. Nowadays, only a bathrobe is needed to walk through an underground passageway to the 2,000-square-metre lake-facing spa, which is open to the public.

Sunday brunch (85 francs for as much as you like from the cooking stations and generously laden buffets) or the new MP’s Grill & Bar are opportunities to admire the hotel’s frescoes, stained glass and moulded stucco without paying full whack for a room.

For a taste of the town’s most famous event, head to the Montreux Jazz Café. Claude Nobs, founder of the Montreux Jazz Festival, was an avid collector, his home a wonder of eclecticism. The Café aims to mirror this, with an assortment of objects that belonged to Nobs and festival photos.

Next door, at Funky Claude’s Bar, more food and an imaginative cocktail list are accompanied by live music every night except Sunday.

For further details, check here.

Lakeside promenade

Montreux’s greatest asset is its location on a seven kilometre-long lakeside promenade lined with exotic flowers and trees.

Between Montreux and Territet, in the direction of Chillon Castle, look out for the themed vegetal sculptures created by the city gardeners. Every year, new sculptures appear in time for the Christmas market.

The 2015/2016 theme is “A journey around the world” and includes vegetal recreations of Easter Island’s statues, a Buddha and the Bull of Wall Street.

Montreux’s head gardener Bertrand Nanchen tells The Local that each sculpture takes two people between two to four days to create.

“We’ve been making them since 1992 and every year we become more perfectionist,” he says.

Walk on to medieval Chillon Castle. After the Napoleonic Wars (1803–1815), this fortress made famous by Lord Byron’s 1816 poem “The Prisoner of Chillon” was a stopping point for travellers heading to Italy. Those early tourists ventured into nearby villages in search of refreshments, prompting enterprising winegrowers to rent out rooms.

By the 1890s, hotels had sprung up all over Montreux and a tourist destination was born.

For more information about Chillon, check here.

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MUSIC

Nick Cave and Johnny Depp among headliners at 2018 Montreux Jazz Festival

Australian alternative rocker Nick Cave, Hollywood star Johnny Depp and punk legend Iggy Pop will be among the headliners at this year's Montreux Jazz Festival, organisers announced on Tuesday.

Nick Cave and Johnny Depp among headliners at 2018 Montreux Jazz Festival
Outsize personality, dark crooner, guru and poet: Australia's Nick Cave will be playing Montreux this eyar. Photo: AFP

The programme for the 52nd edition of the legendary festival, which kicks off on the evening of June 29th and run through to July 14th, offers “a particularly rich lineup”, organisers said in a statement.

Kicking off this year's festival in the idyllic Swiss town of Montreux, on the shores of Lake Geneva, they boasted “the kind of improbable pairing that we love”, featuring French singer Etienne Daho and Italian singer, pianist and composer Paolo Conte.

Montreux has for more than half a century been a magnet for big names of the music business and rising stars alike. Among the performers to grace its stages are jazz legend Miles Davis, folk singer turned crooner turned Nobel Laureate Bob Dylan and blues troubadour B.B. King.

It has retained its jazz label despite dramatically expanding its repertoire over the years, with big names in rock, punk, R&B and hip-hop also on the bill this year.

Australian composer and singer Nick Cave will be one of the top attractions at the festival, where he and his band will be performing for the first time this year, hitting the main stage on July 12th.

The gothic frontman of Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds, who is known for the unsparing emotional intensity of his lyrics, is “an outsize personality, dark crooner, guru and poet,” the organisers said.

He is joined on the marquee by other music industry giants performing at Montreux for the first time, including US industrial band Nine Inch Nails and Jack White, of the White Stripes, who will be performing solo.

Billy Idol, Iggy Pop and Van Morrison also figure on this year's programme, as does Hollywood megastar Johnny Depp, who will be performing with his band Hollywood Vampires, which also counts Alice Cooper and Joe Perry as members.

“In addition to that colossal freeway of rock is a veritable streetscape of options,” organisers said, pointing to “the retro-funk of Jamiroquai, the nervy hip-hop of N.E.R.D., (and) the sunny pop-folk of Angus & Julia Stone,” among others.

 
Meantime, “at the crossroads of rock, electronic music and the avant-garde”, John Cale, a founding member of the mythical New York band Velvet Underground, will be at Montreux for the first time this year, accompanied by a string orchestra, organisers said.

Charlotte Gainsbourg, the daughter French legendary singer and songwriter Serge Gainsbourg and British actress Jane Birkine, who has just released her fifth album, will meanwhile return to Montreux this year, hitting the stage on July 2nd.

In a tribute to its jazz label, the festival this year will create a new space, The House of Jazz, dedicated exclusively to projects within the genre, including an event featuring Brazilian singer Seu Jorge singing David Bowie songs in Portuguese.The festival will also double the seating available at its Montreux Jazz Club stage to fit 600 people, organisers said.

Tickets go on general sale on Tuesday, with price for Nick Cave, for example ranging from 118 to 325 Swiss francs. For Iggy Pop, the cheapest tickets are 95 francs and most expensive 295. A ticket for Charlotte Gainsbourg will set you back 85 Swiss francs.