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MILAN

Expo wraps up but critics doubt social impact

Dedicated to the problem of feeding the planet, the World Expo in Milan winds up Saturday amid celebrations and doubts over visitor numbers but doubts regarding its contributions to the global food debate.

Expo wraps up but critics doubt social impact
As Milan's Expo draws to a close, Italy is undecided about the event's lasting impact. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP

Although preparations were riddled with delays and corruption scandals and May's grand opening was overshadowed by violent protests, over the months the Expo's popularity has increased and crowds have flocked.
   
The number of visitors soared in recent weeks, leading to five-hour queues to enter the most popular pavilions, including Britain, Italy, Japan and Kazakhstan. Some Saturdays drew up to a quarter of a million people.
   
The Expo has also played host to figures such as German Chancellor Angela Merkel, Russian President Vladimir Putin and US First Lady Michelle Obama.

Italian PM Matteo Renzi has declared it a “triumphant ride” to success after organizers said they expected the goal of 20 million visitors to be met if not beaten.
   
For Giuseppe Sala, the Expo's commissioner, the end has come too soon: “I would be the first to want to prolong the Expo but technically its impossible,” he said last week.

“The last day is reluctantly confirmed for October 31,” said Sala, whose success with Expo has transformed him into a local star now tipped as the favourite for Milan's mayoral elections next year.

Socially just or superficial?

Milan has indeed felt the benefits: the number of tourists leaped 35 percent in September to 910,000, a trend that city hall believes will continue thanks to the increased exposure the Expo has brought to Italy's northern economic powerhouse.
   
In the short term, the country should see an overall GDP gain of 0.1 percent for 2015 and some six billion euros in tourism revenue.

But there is a risk of serial bankruptcies – between 1,000 and 3,000 companies – in the most 'expo-dependent' sectors such as construction, according to a report by credit insurer Euler Hermes, one of the Expo's sponsors.
 
Renzi has promised the government will help transform the one million-square-metre (10.7-million-square-feet) venue once its doors close.

Dismantling the pavilions is expected to be completed by mid-2016, to make way for a research and innovation quarter, including the transfer of several scientific faculties from the University of Milan and business hubs.
   
But beyond the crowd-drawing exhibitions, critics have questioned whether the Expo – held under the slogan “Feeding the planet, Energy for life” – lived up to the lofty goals of promoting sustainable and socially just food systems.
   
Italian Agriculture Minister Maurizio Martina argued it helped “awaken the interest, commitment and curiosity of millions of people.”
   
Today, he said, they are “more aware of their responsibilities and their duties concerning the important democratic questions about access to food”.
   
But detractors have complained it pandered to the interests of multinational sponsors and countries with a poor record on the environment.

Carlo Petrini, head of the Slow Food movement – which strives to protect local ecosystems and promote clean and fair food — described it as a “circus” and “a lost opportunity”, saying “you cannot boast opulence in a world where people are dying of hunger”.

And international Catholic aid agency Caritas criticized the Expo's manifesto as “lacking teeth” and offering “a limited approach to global hunger”, with head Michel Roy saying that “the voices of the world's poor are not heard”.
   
The Expo 'torch' now passes to Kazakhstan and the United Arab Emirates, the first of which will organize a smaller-scale international exposition in Astana in 2017, while the latter will host a World Expo in Dubai in 2020.

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FOOD AND DRINK

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

As well as its most famous cocktails, Italy has a long tradition of making refreshing aperitivo drinks without the alcohol.

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

Italy’s favourite aperitivo-hour cocktails are known far beyond the country’s borders, so their names will probably be familiar to you whether you drink them or not.

But if you’re in Italy and not drinking alcohol, you might find yourself stumped when it comes time to order your aperitivo at the bar.

The first time I found myself in this situation, there was no menu. The waiter instead rattled off a long list of all the soft drinks available, most of which I’d never heard of, and I just picked something I thought sounded nice.

Luckily it turns out that Italy has some great options for an aperitivo analcolico. As well as ‘virgin’ versions of well-known cocktails, there are bitters, sodas and other Italian-made soft drinks that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

They might not be quite as iconic as the Aperol Spritz, but they’re as thoroughly Italian – plus, effortlessly ordering one of these will make you look like a true local.

SanBittèr

San Pellegrino’s SanBittèr is one of the most famous non-alcoholic Italian drinks of all, with its highly-recognisable red packaging, often enjoyed in place of Campari cocktails because of its similar dark, ruby-red color.

This drink is carbonated with a slightly sweet, citrus flavor. The recipe is more complex than that of an orange or lemon soda, with notes of spice and herbs, making it ideal to pair with your aperitivo-hour snacks.

Crodino

Crodino looks a lot like an Aperol Spritz with its bright orange hue, and that’s not an accident: it’s said to have been created as a non-alcoholic alternative, and the zesty, slightly herbal taste is similar. It’s typically served the same way. in a round goblet glass over ice with a slice of orange: a Crodino Spritz.

The name comes from the town of Crodo in Piedmont, where it is still bottled today by the Campari group.

Chinotto

Citrusy Chinotto is an acquired taste for many, but it’s worth trying: it’s one of the classic Italian bitters and is said to have a long history, dating back to a recipe shared by Chinese sailors arriving on the Ligurian coast in the 1500s.

It may look a little like Coca Cola, but don’t let the appearance fool you.

(Photo by Eugene Gologursky /Getty Images via AFP)

Aranciata/Limonata

Aranciata is Italy’s version of an orange soda, but not as sugary, and it tastes like oranges. Its base is sparkling water with the addition of orange juice and sugar. There are various brands, but San Pellegrino’s is the most popular. It also sells a ‘bitter’ aranciata amaro, with even less sugar, more citrus tang and herbal notes, which might be more aperitivo-hour appropriate.

Limonata is, as you might guess, the Italian answer to lemonade. Again there are many versions out there but the fizzy San Pellegrino limonata is beloved for its strong, sweet-sour flavour and there’s nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day.

Cedrata

Cedrata is one of Italy’s oldest and best-known non-alcoholic drinks. It’s a refreshing, carbonated drink made from a large citrus fruit called a cedro, grown in southern Italy. It’s far less bitter than a Chinotto, but not as sweet as limonata.

The main producer of Cedrata today is Tassoni, and this is what you’re likely to get if you order it at a bar.

Gingerino

This is harder to find than the other aperitivi on the list and is seen as decidedly retro, but it’s worth trying if you can track it down.

It’s another orange-coloured, sparkling drink which became popular in Italy in the 1970s and is still sold today, though you’re more likely to find it in the north-east, close to Venice, where it’s produced.

You may be expecting it to taste a lot like ginger beer, and there are similarities, but it has stronger citrus notes and more bitterness.

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