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MICHELIN

Malmö’s Michelin magic set for three new spots

Eight months after Malmö scored its first trio of restaurants with a Michelin star, they key names behind them are each planning new ventures in the southern Swedish city.

Malmö's Michelin magic set for three new spots
A dish at Ambiance à Vindåkra in Malmö. Photo: Ambiance à Vindåkra
The Michelin Guide awarded stars to three restaurants in Malmö in February – Ambiance à Vindåkra, Vollmer and Bloom in the Park – in its first publication to include eateries in Nordic locations outside of the region's capital cities.
 
Now that the (star) dust has settled on the winning food spots, it has emerged that their top chefs and owners are all set to launch new projects in 2016, in a move set to further grow the city's gastronomic reputation.
 
Karim Khouani, 38, the head chef at Ambiance à Vindåkra, which describes itself as offering “a piece of France in Skåne” told The Local that his latest restaurant would be “very classic” and allow visitors to taste French cuisine “without breaking the bank”.
 
“It will be something like you could find in Lyon…to get a glass of wine or a small bite, some charcuterie or cheese…somewhere people will come often after work,” he said.
 
The chef, who is originally from Marseille, explained that the new venture would be called Bar à Vin and was set to open in January, after building work commenced a fortnight ago. He said that his plans were already under way before he received his accolade from Michelin, but confirmed that opportunities were growing in the city's food scene following the cluster of stars dished out by the French guidebook earlier this year.
 
“It has opened things up, yes,” he said.
 
“But we have also had people coming here who do not know what a Michelin star is. They think they are going to get 25 waiters around a table and we can't make a single mistake,” he added.
 
His current venue serves up a five course dinner for 650 kronor ($79) which Khouani notes may sound expensive but is “a third of the price you would pay in Copenhagen and Stockholm…and a lot of effort and research and stress goes into it”.
 

Malmö-based chef Karim Khouani. Photo: Karim Khouani
 
The Local has been unable contact the brothers behind Vollmer to confirm details of their new restaurant. But the much celebrated duo, Ebbe and Mats Vollmer, have told other Swedish media that their latest offering, which is inside a converted 14th century smoke house, will focus on selling smoked pork and hopes to become a popular location for families by offering a Sunday roast menu and a top quality dessert buffet.
 
In an interview with regional newspaper Sydsvenskan earlier this month, Ebba Vollmer said: “We wanted to create a really Scanian [traditional to the Skåne region] restaurant, but without copying an already existing concept such as 'gästgiverierna'.”
 
'Gästgiverier' are traditional Swedish inns, which often serve an array of increasingly gourmet pub food.
 
Meanwhile Igi Vidal, the owner of Bloom in the Park, the first Swedish restaurant with a Michelin star to boast a female head chef, told The Local that reports that he was seeking to score a licence for new premises were true, but said he did not want to go into any further details.
 
“Something will open in 2016… with a little bit of luck,” he said.
 

Malmö in southern Sweden is getting a reputation for fine food. Photo: Werner Nystrand/Image Bank Sweden
 
Malmö lies just over the famous Öresund bridge to Copenhagen, which has a dozen Michelin-starred restaurants and enjoys boasting that it is the culinary hub of Scandinavia.
 
The Swedish city's tourism office said in February that it was proud of the city's growing reputation as a rival destination for food and beverage fans.
 
“Malmö has in recent years become the home of more and more exciting food initiatives and restaurants, often unexpected and a bit quirky,” it wrote in a press statement.
 
“With three star restaurants in the Michelin Guide, we've put Malmö on the fine-dining map,” Johan Hermansson, director of tourism for the city, said in the same news release.

FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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