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Cologne’s 10 must-see spots for culture vultures

As Germany’s fourth-largest city, Cologne has always played an important role in German contemporary culture. Frederica Miller explains why it's still buzzing with cultural life despite the halo of glamour shifting to Berlin.

Cologne's 10 must-see spots for culture vultures
There's a lot of culture, music and great times hidden away for those who burrow under the Cologne skyline. Photo: DPA

Cologne's reputational heyday came during the division of Germany, when it became the centre of the West German art market, with Art Cologne, the world’s oldest commercial art fair, a highlight every year.

But after the fall of the Berlin Wall, all eyes shifted to the country’s new capital and have scarcely looked back since.

Despite this sudden usurpation, Cologne still remains a hub of creativity with a rich emerging cultural scene joining established old favourites.

Here is my quick overview of the places where you'll find some of the most beautiful art (and most clued-in culture vultures):

1. Museum Ludwig

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Ausstellungseröffnung “LUDWIG GOES POP”, Laufzeit der Ausstelung 02.10.2014 – 11.01.2015Foto: Rheinisches Bildarchiv /Museum Ludwig/Kim Pottkämper

Posted by Museum Ludwig Köln on Thursday, October 9, 2014

Cologne’s answer to The Tate Modern or MoMa, Museum Ludwig represents the most important trends in art from the beginning of the 20th century to today. It is home to one of the largest collections of Pop Art in Europe and its dynamic program offers internationally-acclaimed exhibitions, regular lectures and a weekly film forum.

2. Gerhard Richter in Cologne Cathedral

Cologne's Gothic cathedral houses a huge work from Germany’s most famous living artist: Gerhard Richter. In 2003, Richter was chosen to re-design the cathedral’s south-facing stained glass window.

The result is an impressive 113-metres squared abstract collage of 11,500 pixel-like glass squares in 72 colours that has to be seen to be believed.

3. Ebertplatz Passage

 

#cologne #köln #koeln #ebertplatzpassage #ebertplatz #gold+beton #goldundbeton #party

A photo posted by Chriska (@yourdailytoast) on May 16, 2014 at 5:41pm PDT

The underpass surrounding Ebertplatz subway station is home to several off-space galleries, like Tiefgarage, Gold und Beton, Labor Ebertplatz or Bruch & Dallas.

For the last few years, this relatively run-down area has striven to draw in a different crowd through the offering of arts and cultural events.

With underground concerts, buzzing parties and a feel for Cologne’s independent art-scene, Ebertplatz is where it’s at.

4. Temporary Gallery

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Since 2014 Temporary Gallery art hall has received city funding as a New Centre for Contemporary Art in Cologne. It regularly invites international curators and researchers for co-operative projects and offers a diverse range of shows and events which, explore and encourage the debate around contemporary art today.

5. King Georg

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© Anna KallageAutor Stefan Weidner und Moderator Christian Werthschulte

Posted by Akademie der Künste der Welt / Köln on Monday, March 9, 2015

Formerly a house of ill repute, King Georg was taken over in 2008 and turned into a bar and concert venue.

Whilst its low-lit interior and leather-bolstered bar maintain a sense of smutty charm, the place has quickly become one of the city's best-loved hangouts.

A packed line-up of independent bands and local DJs make it the perfect spot to drink and dance the night away.

6. Gewölbe

 

Music of Mind #recondite #live #gewölbe #gewölbeköln #innervisions #blow #my #mind #absoluttechno

A photo posted by André (@andre_c.h.r) on May 3, 2015 at 4:18am PDT

If it’s international DJs that you’re looking for, then head to Gewölbe.

As well as having good connections to Cologne’s own Kompakt label, the club offers a consistent programme featuring top electronic acts from across the globe.

7. Bunker

 

#techno #underground #bunker #psychothrill #hot #sweat #adphl #djskudge #rave

A photo posted by audiophil_recordings (@adphl) on Feb 9, 2015 at 1:07pm PST

This unofficial party venue is the best spot in Cologne for underground techno.

It’s home to DJ Claus Bachor's, legendary ‘Psycho Thrill’ parties which have been providing Cologne partygoers with the grittiest sounds in techno & house since 1991.

Ask a local for directions.

8. Hochschule für Musik und Tanz Köln

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Das Orchesterbüro der HfMT sucht ab 27.04.2015 eine studentische Hilfskraft im Umfang von 5 Stunden/Woche für die…

Posted by Hochschule für Musik und Tanz Köln on Monday, April 6, 2015

The Cologne School of Music and Dance, offers a busy programme of contemporary dance shows and modern classical music concerts which are given regularly by both students and touring musicians.

It’s an ideal venue to experience the latest shifts in modern music and dance.

9. Walther König

Buchhandlung Walther König Köln (0637-39)“ by © Raimond Spekking / CC BY-SA 4.0 (via Wikimedia Commons).

First founded in Cologne in 1968, Walther König Book Store has a long-standing connection to the Cologne art scene.

Nowadays an international brand, the Cologne branch is still the best place in the city for affordable books on contemporary art and culture.

10. Van Dyck Coffee

This award-winning coffee bar and roastery is Cologne’s response to the third-wave caffeine hype. Head here for flawless flat whites, made from a selection of in-store roasted beans.

Cologne-based blogger Frederica Miller can be found at thisaintberlin or on Twitter.

SEE ALSO: What's so great about… Cologne?

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COLOGNE

What to do, see and eat on a budget-friendly break in Cologne

Cologne is one of the oldest cities in Germany, with a history stretching back just over 2,000 years. It’s a past full of old Roman bones, Gothic architecture and world-famous fine fragrances. But it's possible to explore without breaking the bank.

What to do, see and eat on a budget-friendly break in Cologne

You could spend months exploring Cologne, but most of us don’t have the time or resources.

Therefore, here’s what to do, see and eat during a weekend in one of Europe’s cultural capitals. 

DO

Cologne is a very walkable city, and it’s easy to get between the main sights, such as the iconic Hohenzollern Bridge and the historic Altstadt or old town. That said, it’s also well-served by an excellent public transport network. 

The most up-to-date schedules and journey planners are available through the KVB or Deutsche Bahn apps. 

READ ALSO: 10 facts you probably didn’t know about Cologne (even if you live there)

To get around, the KölnCard is your best option. Not only will it get you everywhere you want to be within the areas visited by tourists, but it can give you up to a 50 percent discount on selected attractions.

The KölnCard can be purchased at the tourist information centre, or KVB ticket machines at public transport stops. 

SEE

The first thing you’ll likely see upon arriving in Cologne is the Kölner Dom or Cologne Cathedral. (Domkloster 4, 50667). 

While there’s been some sort of church on the site since the 17th century, the current Gothic masterpiece began construction in 1248 and, due to war, plague and economic turmoils, was not completed until 1880. Indeed, a crane sat atop one of the incomplete towers for centuries. 

The cathedral is one of the holiest pilgrimage sights in Christianity, as tradition holds that the relics of the Three Wise Men are housed there in a reliquary.

Cologne cathedral

Cologne’s cathedral is one of the world’s most important Gothic masterpieces – it took over 600 years to build! Photo: Bea61 / Pixabay

READ ALSO: Eight things you probably didn’t know about Cologne Cathedral

You can spend hours drinking in the gorgeous medieval paintings and carvings, flooded with golden light streaming through the windows. 

With a €10 ticket per adult, you can enter the cathedral and the treasury, which holds even more stunning treasures. 

However, Cologne was occupied way further back than the Middle Ages. Cologne, or Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium as it was known, was an important Roman city founded in the first decades of the first century. 

While Roman remains can be found everywhere in Cologne – in the crypts of many churches, for example – many of the best-preserved artefacts and evidence of everyday Roman life are kept in the Römisch-Germanisches Museum, or Romano-German Museum (Cäcilienstraße 46, 50667). 

Everything you might expect from a bustling Roman provincial capital, from tiny, intricate jewellery pieces to monumental arches that led into the city, can be found here. Tickets for adults are €6. 

Another quite peculiar legacy of the Romans can be found in the Basilica of St. Ursula (Ursulaplatz 24, 50668). Locals uncovered a Roman cemetery in the early Middle Ages, which contained hundreds of burials and thousands of bones. 

Somehow, these were conflated with the legend of St Ursula, an English princess whom the Huns martyred along with eleven other virgins (and who eventually grew to 11,000). 

These bones now adorn the basilica’s Goldene Kammer or ‘Golden Chamber’, arranged in fantastic designs such as letters, numbers and geometric patterns. 

It’s something you’re rarely likely to have seen before. Best of all, photography is permitted, and entrance is free. 

The incredible interior of the Goldene Kammer, or ‘Golden Chamber’ in the Basilica of St Ursula. Photo: Mike Stuchbery / The Local

For something completely different, head over to the Farina Duftmuseum, or Farina Fragrance Museum

Cologne is world-renowned for its contribution to perfumery. Indeed, the city gave its name to the fragrances worn by men. 

This is mainly due to the work of Johann Maria Farina, who, together with his brother, established a perfumery in the eighteenth century that became spectacularly successful across Europe with their ‘Eau de Cologne’. 

The Farina Fragrance Museum not only tells the story of the family firm but also explains the production process in detail and demonstrates how the scent is manufactured. 

Tickets cost €8 per adult, and yes, there’s a gift shop with bottles of all shapes and sizes to take home. 

EAT AND DRINK

In Cologne—and especially when staying there on a budget—there’s no other place for snacks and quick meals like a Büdchen or Kiosk. 

Like the legendary Berlin Späti, these are places open all hours of the day for anything you may need and serving simple but good food. 

Pico Coffee (Neusserplatz, 50670) is one of the city’s most beloved Büdchen. Don’t let the name fool you—they also serve breakfast, sandwiches, crepes and other snacks, in addition to takeaway essentials and fantastic coffee. 

Carnival start

A woman holding a greeting sign of ‘Alaaf’ to mark the start of Cologne’s Carnival season on November 11th, 2022. picture alliance/dpa | Rolf Vennenbernd

Another cult Cologne Büdchen is Kölnkiosk (Brüsselerstraße 39 – 41, 50674), a very popular neighbourhood venue that serves a constantly changing menu of small bites to larger meals. You’ll recognise it with a riot of bright pink!

Locals also swear by Weinhaus Vogel (Eigelstein 74, 50668) a neighbourhood institution with cheap, filling regional fare that’s been keeping customers happy since 1898. 

Finally, get a taste of real local flavour at Knippschild Werk 2 (An der Kemperwiese, 451069), where you can enjoy a cold Kölsch beer alongside a selection of hearty, good-value German dishes. 

Have any recommendations for things to do, see or eat in Cologne? Let us know in the comments.

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