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ITALIANS

Doggy bags: The last Italian taboo?

When America’s First Lady Michelle Obama and her daughters dined in a popular Rome restaurant in 2009, staff were shocked when she asked for a 'doggy bag' to take her leftovers home.

Doggy bags: The last Italian taboo?
One in four Italians believe the idea of carrying the remnants of their favourite dishes back home is a sign of poverty. Jean-Philippe Ksiazek/AFP

Now a new survey by the Italian farmers’ association, Coldiretti, has found the practice is still considered a taboo in Italy.

According to the survey cited by the Italian media, one in four Italians believe the idea of carrying the remnants of their favourite dishes back home is a sign of poverty, bad manners and even vulgarity.

To avoid the shame of taking any morsel of food away, 28 percent of Italians believe it is better to swallow it all and clear their plates completely, the survey found.

Michelin star chef, Matteo Baronetto, from Turin’s historic Del Cambio restaurant said foreign guests sometimes request a ‘doggy bag’ and there should be no shame about it.

“There’s no scandal, quite the opposite,” Baronetto told the Italian daily, La Stampa. “It’s the client’s choice and it’s his meal since he has paid for it. 

“The same also happens with uncorked wine bottles which are unfinished. There’s nothing bad about finishing them at home.”

Nevertheless there are signs of a change in Italy. The Coldiretti survey found that 25 percent of Italians sometimes ask for a “doggy bag” to take their leftovers home.

In the northern region of Lombardy a recycling consortium has launched an initiative with 75 restaurants to promote takeaway leftovers, complete with specially designed ‘doggy bags’.

And nearly two thirds of Italians have reduced their food waste at home to an average 76 kilos per person.

Baronetto said whether or not to ask for a ‘doggy bag’ was a personal choice for Italians.

“It is a cultural problem or even a psychological one,” he said. “On the one hand, the idea is that I have paid, it is mine so I should not waste it.

“On the other, there is the fear of making a bad impression and being considered one who watches every last cent. Both seem legitimate to me, but personally I don’t find any shame in asking for a ‘doggy bag’.” 

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FOOD AND DRINK

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

As well as its most famous cocktails, Italy has a long tradition of making refreshing aperitivo drinks without the alcohol.

Six of the most Italian non-alcoholic aperitivo drinks

Italy’s favourite aperitivo-hour cocktails are known far beyond the country’s borders, so their names will probably be familiar to you whether you drink them or not.

But if you’re in Italy and not drinking alcohol, you might find yourself stumped when it comes time to order your aperitivo at the bar.

The first time I found myself in this situation, there was no menu. The waiter instead rattled off a long list of all the soft drinks available, most of which I’d never heard of, and I just picked something I thought sounded nice.

Luckily it turns out that Italy has some great options for an aperitivo analcolico. As well as ‘virgin’ versions of well-known cocktails, there are bitters, sodas and other Italian-made soft drinks that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else.

They might not be quite as iconic as the Aperol Spritz, but they’re as thoroughly Italian – plus, effortlessly ordering one of these will make you look like a true local.

SanBittèr

San Pellegrino’s SanBittèr is one of the most famous non-alcoholic Italian drinks of all, with its highly-recognisable red packaging, often enjoyed in place of Campari cocktails because of its similar dark, ruby-red color.

This drink is carbonated with a slightly sweet, citrus flavor. The recipe is more complex than that of an orange or lemon soda, with notes of spice and herbs, making it ideal to pair with your aperitivo-hour snacks.

Crodino

Crodino looks a lot like an Aperol Spritz with its bright orange hue, and that’s not an accident: it’s said to have been created as a non-alcoholic alternative, and the zesty, slightly herbal taste is similar. It’s typically served the same way. in a round goblet glass over ice with a slice of orange: a Crodino Spritz.

The name comes from the town of Crodo in Piedmont, where it is still bottled today by the Campari group.

Chinotto

Citrusy Chinotto is an acquired taste for many, but it’s worth trying: it’s one of the classic Italian bitters and is said to have a long history, dating back to a recipe shared by Chinese sailors arriving on the Ligurian coast in the 1500s.

It may look a little like Coca Cola, but don’t let the appearance fool you.

(Photo by Eugene Gologursky /Getty Images via AFP)

Aranciata/Limonata

Aranciata is Italy’s version of an orange soda, but not as sugary, and it tastes like oranges. Its base is sparkling water with the addition of orange juice and sugar. There are various brands, but San Pellegrino’s is the most popular. It also sells a ‘bitter’ aranciata amaro, with even less sugar, more citrus tang and herbal notes, which might be more aperitivo-hour appropriate.

Limonata is, as you might guess, the Italian answer to lemonade. Again there are many versions out there but the fizzy San Pellegrino limonata is beloved for its strong, sweet-sour flavour and there’s nothing more refreshing on a hot summer’s day.

Cedrata

Cedrata is one of Italy’s oldest and best-known non-alcoholic drinks. It’s a refreshing, carbonated drink made from a large citrus fruit called a cedro, grown in southern Italy. It’s far less bitter than a Chinotto, but not as sweet as limonata.

The main producer of Cedrata today is Tassoni, and this is what you’re likely to get if you order it at a bar.

Gingerino

This is harder to find than the other aperitivi on the list and is seen as decidedly retro, but it’s worth trying if you can track it down.

It’s another orange-coloured, sparkling drink which became popular in Italy in the 1970s and is still sold today, though you’re more likely to find it in the north-east, close to Venice, where it’s produced.

You may be expecting it to taste a lot like ginger beer, and there are similarities, but it has stronger citrus notes and more bitterness.

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