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TRAVEL NEWS

Civita di Bagnoregio: The Italian town that refuses to die

With a population of only six, it’s been dubbed “the dying town”. But on a recent visit to the hilltop Civita di Bagnoregio, The Local spoke to one of the inhabitants, and discovered a fervent desire to keep it very much alive.

Civita di Bagnoregio: The Italian town that refuses to die
Civita di Bagnoregio. Photo: Angela Giuffrida/The Local

There is no post office, no supermarket, no chemist, no hospital and the one school shut down decades ago.

All that is left of Civita di Bagnoregio, the Lazio town founded by the Etruscans more than 2,500 years ago, is a cluster of holiday homes, a B&B, restaurants and souvenir shops, all catering to the tourists who come to marvel at and indulge this gem of Italy’s past.

Oh, and a steadfast full-time population of six, a number that swells to about 100 at the height of summer.

One who decided to stay, as all her childhood friends fled, is Arianna, the 39-year-old owner of La Cantina di Arianna, a restaurant that forms part of her ancestral home.

“At one time, it was a place that had a lovely community spirit, there was a lot of human contact; we were like one big family,” she told The Local.

“All that has gone now, but so much of my family history is here…my livelihood is here… and I don’t want to live anywhere else.”

Arianna, whose ancestors came to the town more than 1,000 years ago and worked as farmers in the surrounding area, grew up on the three or four winding streets that make up Civita, only leaving to cross the footbridge to nearby Bagnoregio to attend school.

Once considered the “jewel city of the Tiber Valley”, Civita started to decline in the 17th century, due to earthquakes and soil erosion which sent many of its medieval buildings tumbling down the cliffs, and the inhabitants fleeing to nearby towns.

Nowadays the town, which sits precariously atop a precipice in a fairytale-like setting, can only be reached by a narrow footbridge – a walk, much of it an incline, that takes about ten minutes.

The town is inaccessible to vehicles other than mopeds, which is how Arianna receives most of the supplies for her restaurant.

Civita’s survival has always been dictated by the forces of nature – landslides in particular – as well as the money then needed to repair the damage.

But it was only in 2013 that a €1.50 fee to enter the town was introduced, in an effort to raise funds for its upkeep.

Some of this effort can be seen in the way the pretty, narrow streets and main square are meticulously maintained.

With road signs leading visitors to “the dying town” from Bagnoregio, the nickname is also an alluring way of attracting curious sightseers.

“There’s been a big increase in the number of tourists coming over the past few years,” said Arianna.

“Especially from China.”

But despite the connotations of a rapidly approaching death, the town has become somewhat of a mecca for hippies and artists, albeit wealthy ones.

The majority of the houses are second homes, used by the owners for holidays and at weekends, Arianna said.

Earlier this year, a group of Italian artists and cultural heavyweights, including Ennio Morricone, the film composer, got together to appeal for Civita to be saved.

The petition, also signed by Italy’s former president, Giorgio Napoletano, called on the town to be classed as a Unesco World Heritage site.

But the locals believe a lot more needs to be done, especially when it comes to protecting the town from landslides.

“There’s been a promise of money to be put towards this,” Arianna said.

“But whether this happens, remains to be seen. There are many towns across Italy in the same situation.”  

But not all as stunning as Civita.

Curious to take a look? Then here’s how to get there:

Unless you have a car, to reach Bagnoregio you can take a train from Rome to Orvieto (1 hour 10/20 mins) and catch a blue Cotral bus from there. Bus stops are near the train station. Bear in mind that buses do not run on Sundays and public holidays. The rambling bus takes about 40 minutes, and Civita is a 30 minute walk from the bus stop, including the bridge crossing.

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TRAVEL NEWS

German train strike wave to end following new labour agreement

Germany's Deutsche Bahn rail operator and the GDL train drivers' union have reached a deal in a wage dispute that has caused months of crippling strikes in the country, the union said.

German train strike wave to end following new labour agreement

“The German Train Drivers’ Union (GDL) and Deutsche Bahn have reached a wage agreement,” GDL said in a statement.

Further details will be announced in a press conference on Tuesday, the union said. A spokesman for Deutsche Bahn also confirmed that an agreement had been reached.

Train drivers have walked out six times since November, causing disruption for huge numbers of passengers.

The strikes have often lasted for several days and have also caused disruption to freight traffic, with the most recent walkout in mid-March.

In late January, rail traffic was paralysed for five days on the national network in one of the longest strikes in Deutsche Bahn’s history.

READ ALSO: Why are German train drivers launching more strike action?

Europe’s largest economy has faced industrial action for months as workers and management across multiple sectors wrestle over terms amid high inflation and weak business activity.

The strikes have exacerbated an already gloomy economic picture, with the German economy shrinking 0.3 percent across the whole of last year.

What we know about the new offer so far

Through the new agreement, there will be optional reduction of a work week to 36 hours at the start of 2027, 35.5 hours from 2028 and then 35 hours from 2029. For the last three stages, employees must notify their employer themselves if they wish to take advantage of the reduction steps.

However, they can also opt to work the same or more hours – up to 40 hours per week are possible in under the new “optional model”.

“One thing is clear: if you work more, you get more money,” said Deutsche Bahn spokesperson Martin Seiler. Accordingly, employees will receive 2.7 percent more pay for each additional or unchanged working hour.

According to Deutsche Bahn, other parts of the agreement included a pay increase of 420 per month in two stages, a tax and duty-free inflation adjustment bonus of 2,850 and a term of 26 months.

Growing pressure

Last year’s walkouts cost Deutsche Bahn some 200 million, according to estimates by the operator, which overall recorded a net loss for 2023 of 2.35 billion.

Germany has historically been among the countries in Europe where workers went on strike the least.

But since the end of 2022, the country has seen growing labour unrest, while real wages have fallen by four percent since the start of the war in Ukraine.

German airline Lufthansa is also locked in wage disputes with ground staff and cabin crew.

Several strikes have severely disrupted the group’s business in recent weeks and will weigh on first-quarter results, according to the group’s management.

Airport security staff have also staged several walkouts since January.

Some politicians have called for Germany to put in place rules to restrict critical infrastructure like rail transport from industrial action.

But Chancellor Olaf Scholz has rejected the calls, arguing that “the right to strike is written in the constitution… and that is a democratic right for which unions and workers have fought”.

The strikes have piled growing pressure on the coalition government between Scholz’s Social Democrats, the Greens and the pro-business FDP, which has scored dismally in recent opinion polls.

The far-right AfD has been enjoying a boost in popularity amid the unrest with elections in three key former East German states due to take place later this year.

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