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THE LOCAL RECIPES

RECIPE

How to make Swedish pears in red wine

Who doesn't love a delicious dessert? Satisfy your guests' taste buds with this low-cholesterol treat. Food writer John Duxbury shares his top tips with The Local.

How to make Swedish pears in red wine
Pears and other fruit in red wine. Photo: Jurek Holzer/SvD/TT

Summary

Serves: 8

Preparation: ¼ hour

Cooking: 3 ¼ hours

Total: 3 ½ hours

Ingredients

8 large pears with stalks

500 ml (2 cups) red wine

50 g (¼ cup) fine sugar

2 cinnamon sticks

1 vanilla pod

2 tsp arrowroot or potato flour (starch)

You'll also need a large enough casserole to take the pears lying on their sides

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 130C (250F, gas ½, fan 120C)

2. Peel the pears but leave the stalks intact. Then slice off a thin slice from the bottom of each pear so that they can sit upright

3. Lay the pears on their sides in a large casserole. Pour over the red wine then sprinkle with sugar and add the cinnamon sticks and the vanilla pod. Now bring everything to simmering point, cover the casserole and bake in the oven on a low shelf for 1½ hours

4. Turn the pears over onto their other side, then cook for another 1½ hours

5. When the pears are cooked, transfer them to a serving bowl to cool, leaving the liquid in the casserole. Remove the cinnamon sticks and vanilla pod

6. Mix the arrowroot or potato flour (starch) with a little cold water to make a smooth paste. Add this to the casserole, whisking as you add it. Bring the syrup to a simmer, stirring continuously until the sauce thickens. Remove from the heat and leave to cool

7. When the sauce is cold, pour it over the pears and cover with food wrap. Place the pears in the fridge to cool thoroughly

8. Serve the pears sitting upright in individual dishes with the sauce spooned over them. They are nice on their own, but they can also be served with pouring cream, crème fraîche or a small scoop of cinnamon ice cream


Pears in red wine. Photo: John Duxbury

Tips

– When cooking pears in red wine, Swedes normally add cinnamon and vanilla, but you can also use nutmeg and cinnamon. You can also add other fruit.

– You can substitute red wine with strong dry apple cider or pear cider 

– When shopping for pears, choose hard ones with a good shape and a long stalk, so that the pear can be picked up by the stalk

This recipe was originally published on food writer John Duxbury's Swedish Food website.

 

 

FOOD AND DRINK

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

Should you tip in Sweden? Habits are changing fast thanks to new technology and a hard-pressed restaurant trade, writes James Savage.

OPINION: Are tips in Sweden becoming the norm?

The Local’s guide to tipping in Sweden is clear: tip for good service if you want to, but don’t feel the pressure: where servers in the US, for instance, rely on tips to live, waiters in Sweden have collectively bargained salaries with long vacations and generous benefits. 

But there are signs that this is changing, and the change is being accelerated by card machines. Now, many machines offer three preset gratuity percentages, usually starting with five percent and going up to fifteen or twenty. Previously they just asked the customer to fill in the total amount they wanted to pay.

This subtle change to a user interface sends a not-so-subtle message to customers: that tipping is expected and that most people are probably doing it. The button for not tipping is either a large-lettered ‘No Tip’ or a more subtle ‘Fortsätt’ or ‘Continue’ (it turns out you can continue without selecting a tip amount, but it’s not immediately clear to the user). 

I’ll confess, when I was first presented with this I was mildly irked: I usually tip if I’ve had table service, but waiting staff are treated as professionals and paid properly, guaranteed by deals with unions; menu prices are correspondingly high. The tip was a genuine token of appreciation.

But when I tweeted something to this effect (a tweet that went strangely viral), the responses I got made me think. Many people pointed out that the restaurant trade in Sweden is under enormous pressure, with rising costs, the after-effects of Covid and difficulties recruiting. And as Sweden has become more cosmopolitain, adding ten percent to the bill comes naturally to many.

Boulebar, a restaurant and bar chain with branches around Sweden and Denmark, had a longstanding policy of not accepting tips at all, reasoning that they were outdated and put diners in an uncomfortable position. But in 2021 CEO Henrik Kruse decided to change tack:

“It was a purely financial decision. We were under pressure due to Covid, and we had to keep wages down, so bringing back tips was the solution,” he said, adding that he has a collective agreement and staff also get a union bargained salary, before tips.

Yet for Kruse the new machines, with their pre-set tipping percentages, take things too far:

“We don’t use it, because it makes it even clearer that you’re asking for money. The guest should feel free not to tip. It’s more important for us that the guest feels free to tell people they’re satisfied.”

But for those restaurants that have adopted the new interfaces, the effect has been dramatic. Card processing company Kassacentralen, which was one of the first to launch this feature in Sweden, told Svenska Dagbladet this week that the feature had led to tips for the average establishment doubling, with some places seeing them rise six-fold.

Even unions are relaxed about tipping these days, perhaps understanding that they’re a significant extra income for their members. Union representatives have often in the past spoken out against tipping, arguing that the practice is demeaning to staff and that tips were spread unevenly, with staff in cafés or fast food joints getting nothing at all. But when I called the Swedish Hotel and Restaurant Union (HRF), a spokesman said that the union had no view on the practice, and it was a matter for staff, business owners and customers to decide.

So is tipping now expected in Sweden? The old advice probably still stands; waiters are still not as reliant on tips as staff in many other countries, so a lavish tip is not necessary. But as Swedes start to tip more generously, you might stick out if you leave nothing at all.

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