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HEATWAVE

HEATWAVE

Gazpacho: Spaniards are going crazy for cold soup

Sales of the summery soup have skyrocketed by over 50 percent thanks to Spain’s long-running heatwave. The Local takes a look at the craze for gazpacho.

Gazpacho: Spaniards are going crazy for cold soup
Gazpacho is the perfect lunchtime refresher in the summer heat. Photo: Harlan Harris / Flickr

Spain has been sweltering under a seemingly neverending heatwave since the end of June, and one – perhaps unsurprising – effect is that sales of summer food have skyrocketed.

Spaniards are sticking to what they know, with gazpacho – a cold tomato soup typical during the summer months in Spain – and Horchata – a refreshing drink made from tiger nuts – among the favourites.

Gazpacho sales have risen by 51 percent during the heatwave, while horchata sales are up 46 percent according to consultancy Nielson.

For Asís González de Castejón from Nielson, one reason for the sharp increase in sales is the severity of this summer’s temperatures in comparison to last year’s cooler summer:

“Two such different summers have led to spectacular growth, especially during the second week in July when sales of summer foods rose by 14.5 percent,” he told Spanish news agency Efe.

The Spanish idiom “de gazpacho no hay empacho” meaning “You can't get enough of a good thing” epitomizes the Spanish love affair with this cold tomato soup.

Originally a classic from Andalusia, at the height of the summer gazpacho becomes a staple of menu del dias the length and breadth of Spain.

The ice-cold low calorie cold soup usually served during the hottest part of the day will energize anyone suffering in the current heatwave.

It can be drunk in a tall glass with ice or sipped from a spoon from a serving topped with cubed raw ingredients and croutons.

Every family will have its own recipe but its constituent parts are tomatoes, garlic, olive oil and cucumber. Sometimes with bread and peppers added.


Photo from the Lentils on Friday blog by Anneke Kooijmans

How to make gazpacho:

Madrid-based food blogger Anneke Kooijmans shares her favourite gazpacho recipe with The Local. She can be found writing about gazpacho and other Iberian favourites at Lentils On Friday.

Anneke’s gazpacho recipe (serves four to six):
 
1 thick slice of bread (most people don’t use the crust, I do)
1 red pepper, deseeded and cut into quarters
1 kilo ripe plum tomatoes, quartered and hard white parts removed
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
2 tablespoons of white wine vinegar
6 tablespoons of olive oil
salt
 
Roast the bread in a frying pan without any oil, until the bread has dried, but has not browned yet.
 
Turn the bread around once. Mince the bread to breadcrumbs in a blender, set apart.
 
Cream the pepper in a blender or food processor. Then add the tomatoes, salt and garlic and cream. Mix in the oil, vinegar and breadcrumbs. Taste and add more salt if necessary, or add water if the soup is too creamy.
 
Poor into a serving bowl cover and let the soup chill in the fridge for at least an hour.

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FOOD AND DRINK

Why do they pour cider like that in Spain’s Asturias?

The green northern region’s drink of choice is cider but it’s the method waiters have of pouring it from a great height that catches the attention of ‘out-ciders’.

Why do they pour cider like that in Spain's Asturias?

They say Asturian blood is 50 percent water and 50 percent cider, and given the 40 million bottles produced every year in the region, it doesn’t seem too hard to believe.

However, it’s the method of serving cider in Asturias which really captures the imagination. 

The bottle will either come attached to a contraption which sucks up the cider and splurts it into a wide but thin-rimmed glass.

Or the waiter will come out every few minutes to grab your bottle and glass, lift the former high up with one arm and the latter down low around waist height before pouring some of the cider into the glass from at an arm’s length. 

There’s even a verb for this action – escanciar – to decant.  

The objective is for the cider to be shaken and aerated so that its natural carbon dioxide ‘awakens’.

When it is poured from above and hits the glass, carbon dioxide bubbles are produced that make the aroma of the cider come alive.

It’s good and normal for there to be splashback when pouring Asturian cider, but the aim is still to get most of it in the glass. (Photo by MIGUEL RIOPA / AFP)

These bubbles go away quickly so once served, the customer should quickly drink the culín (small bottom) up in one swig. 

The action of escanciar imitates how cider would be traditionally served when it went directly from big oak barrels to the glass, as cider has been the drink of choice in Asturians since before Roman times. 

READ ALSO: Why Spaniards’ habit of drinking alcohol every day is surprisingly healthy

This is after all natural cider which doesn’t come with the sugar, additives and pre-carbonated mixes of brands such as Strongbow, Magners or Kopparberg.

“It took me some time to get the hang of pouring cider, I missed the mark a lot, and my arm used to get very tired at first,” a Latin American waitress at a bar in Gijón told The Local Spain. 

Many sidrerías (cider houses) and restaurants have cylindrical tubes on wheels where escanciadores (the waiters in charge of pouring cider) can put the glass in to avoid making a mess on the floor or splashing customers, as there is always some splatter even if they don’t completely miss the mark. 

A waiter pours cider for customers at a cider bar in the northern Spanish city of Oviedo (Photo by RAFA RIVAS / AFP)

The more old-school chigres (cider house in Asturian) prefer to have sawdust all over the floor to absorb the spilt cider.

To pour, tirar (throw) or escanciar (decant) cider like an Asturian, you should tilt the bottle slowly from above and aim for the cider to hit the top part of the inside side of the glass, which has to be held at a 45-degree angle. It’s this that brings out the effervescence out in la sidra natural.  

So when you visit the beautiful region of Asturias and you tuck into their famously ample servings of fabada asturiana (Asturian bean stew) or cachopo (meat, cheese and ham all together in breadcrumbs), washed down with one or two bottles of sidra, now you’ll understand what’s behind this eye-catching tradition.

READ ALSO: Eight fascinating facts about Spain’s Asturias region

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