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WILDLIFE

Spain’s newest export to France: Vultures

It is well known that France imports Spain’s wine, its jamon and its olive oil, but now Spain is sending a rather different cargo over the Pyrenees to its northern neighbour.

Spain's newest export to France: Vultures
Black vultures at the rehabilitation centre before being transferred to France. Photo: Vulture Conservation Foundation

Spain is helping to reintroduce France’s population of black vultures, almost a century after they were poisoned to extinction.

Seven black vultures (Aegypius monachus) are being transported this weekend from Spain to new homes in France where they will be released into the wild after being fitted with a satellite tracker system.

The birds have been sent from the regions of Extremadura and Andalusia which currently boast the biggest population of the scavenging birds in Europe.

"Spain currently holds 90 percent of Vultures in all of Europe so our population is healthy enough to send some to France to help theirs," explained Dr Jóse Tavares, the director of the Vulture Conservation Foundation, which oversees the project.

The birds that are to be sent from France are those which have been rescued from the wild and nursed back to health in rehabilitation centres.

Photo of a black vulture at the rehabilitation center before transfer, courtesy of Vulture Conservation Foundation

"They are about a year old and are birds that became too weak to fly. A vulture can survive for about two weeks without eating but these young birds, because of their inexperience went out to look for food, couldn’t find it and then became too weak to get off the ground again," Tavares said in an interview with The Local.

"So we take them into a rehabilitation centre, build up their strength and then instead of releasing them in Spain we send them to France," he said.

Vulture species suffered during the 20th century when huge numbers were killed off by poison left out to kill other predators such as bears, wolves and foxes.

"The vultures either ate the bait or they ate the carcasses of those that did and the species started to disappear," Tavares explained.

Photo of a black vulture in flight courtesy of Vulture Conservation Foundation

Tavares accepts that they are not the easiest animal to get the public excited about.

"Vultures have a bad image but actually they are extremely useful. They don’t kill anything and in fact are the cleaners of the countryside," he emphasized.

The head of the conservation charity explained what huge success Spain has had in bringing the species back from the brink of extinction.

"In the 1980s there were less than 250 breeding pairs and now we have more than 2,000 in parts of Spain, the most prolific in Madrid, Extremadura and Andalusia," he said.

So a project was born to share the vultures with Spain's northern neighbour and there are now 40 breeding pairs in southern France.

"We are confident that within a couple of years the black vulture population of France will be self-sustainable and then we can extend the project elsewhere – to the Balkans," said Tavares.

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FOOD AND DRINK

Why are Spain’s Riojas often not considered fine wines?

It's one of Spain's most famous tipples, and yet there are a number of reasons why Rioja wines are widely respected but not always considered fine wines by international experts and the general public.

Why are Spain's Riojas often not considered fine wines?

Spanish Riojas are loved across Spain and around the world by wine lovers. They are known for being medium to full-bodied, with a strong structure and tannins, and are often described as tasting like berries or plums.

One thing Riojas generally aren’t generally considered, however, are fine wines in the way that other wines are.

Sure, there are some particularly fantastic and award-winning Rioja vintages that are considered world class, but generally speaking Rioja is viewed as a bit of a bargain: good quality wine but not such high quality that it becomes unaffordable.

So what is a fine wine in the first place? There isn’t an exact science but they tend to be defined as a category that represents the highest quality producers from a wine-growing region, where the highest level of winemaking and viticultural standards are implemented, and quality over quantity is prioritised. And as you might have guessed, it’s wine critics who often have the final say on which fines are fine. 

Riojas’ good value for money

According to wine experts at Enologique, in the wine world (and perhaps in the wine-glugging public imagination too), Rioja is trapped in the ‘good value’ category, meaning it is generally perceived as middle of the road, cost effective, and neither awful nor amazing.

BBC wine expert Victoria Moore sums it up nicely: “One piece of good news for those who love Rioja is that it is one of the wines that supermarkets do best. You can find excellent examples of own-label Rioja just about anywhere you might shop.”

Riojas are seen as good value for money, something that (for better or worse) prevents it being considered among the more prestigious wines by some people.

READ ALSO: Ten facts you probably didn’t know about Spanish wine

High production

Wine critic Tim Atkin argues that one reason Riojas aren’t quite viewed as in the top tier of wines is the fact that Spain’s La Rioja region makes so much vino, up to 300 million litres a year on average.

In Atkin’s words, “there’s always an unspoken fear that the mass-market wines won’t sell, even if the prices are low.”

Of the roughly 300 million litres of wine produced in La Rioja annually, up to 90 percent of it is red and the remaining 10 percent is white or rosé.

Different Riojas

Part of the explanation could also be the size of La Rioja itself and the variety of wines it produces, as although they are all marketed and sold as one type of wine, wines produced there tend to differ from one another than the best-known fine wines from France and Italy.

Rioja enjoys a mixture of Atlantic, Continental and Mediterranean climates with hot summers and cold winters with relatively high rainfall — good conditions for growing grapes that produce quality wines, but with quite a lot of variety.

The four main classifications of Riojas are Genérico, Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva.

The general consensus is that Rioja business bosses favour quantity over quality for economic reasons. (Photo by CESAR MANSO / AFP)
 

Soil studies 

Another ‘black mark’ against Riojas when it comes to fine wines is, Atkin says, that the region would be taken more seriously if it published soil studies.

Despite being drank around the world, there is no authoritative report on Riojas soils, something many other wine producing regions in France and Italy do.

Business monopolies

One more reason Riojas are loved by many but not really considered fine wines is due to the business model: vested interests in the wine industry, namely the companies that make up the so-called ‘Grupo Rioja’, an association of influential and established bodegas that sells around three quarters of all Rioja wine. 

Atkin argues these groups have little interest in changing their business models because, in his words, “flogging large quantities of cheap wine at small but profitable margins suits them fine.” 

If someone wanted to try and recalibrate the production model in the region, or try and market Riojas as fine wines, they’d likely come up against the might of these established monopolies.

Wine politics

As with many things in Spain, politics (and regional identity) could also play a role. As the region is quite large, Rioja’s soils are varied. Yet despite that, most of the top wines come from the north and northwest of the region, especially from Sonsierra.

Atkins says that most of Rioja’s best wine growing areas are north of the River Ebro. As such, many of these high-quality vineyards are in the Alavesa subregion, which is not part of La Rioja region but actually part of the Basque Country.

According to wine website Decanter, there are 63,593 hectares of vineyards in the La Rioja wine making region, divided as follows: La Rioja (43,885 ha), Alava (12,934 ha) and Navarre (6,774 ha).

In recent years, wine rivalry between the Basque province of Álava and La Rioja has threatened to upend the Rioja wine world. Due to the internal politics, some Basque growers could break off from the Rioja name and brand and instead produce and label their own wines as Viñedos de Álava.

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