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RESTAURANT

Aarhus gets its long-awaited Michelin stars

Aarhus often lives in the shadows of Copenhagen, but Denmark’s second-largest city no longer has to take a back seat when it comes to its food scene.

Aarhus gets its long-awaited Michelin stars
Chefs William Jørgensen (left) and Søren Jakobsen (right) from the Aarhus restaurant Gastromé celebrate their Michelin star Thursday. Photo: Brian Rasmussen/Scanpix
Three Aarhus restaurants were given Michelin stars Thursday as the first ever Michelin Nordic Cities guide was presented in Stockholm. 
 
The Aarhus restaurants Frederikshøj, Gastromé and Restaurant Substans were all granted one star from the venerable French guide. 
 
“We have some of Denmark’s best chefs in Aarhus, who really deserve the recognition. It will have a huge impact on tourism that the city’s gastronomic level has now been given the stamp of approval from the ultimate food bible – especially in the run-up to 2017, when Aarhus is the European Capital of Culture and many potential international guests will turn their attention to the city,” Peer Kristensen, the head of the tourist organization Visit Aarhus, said in a statement. 
 
Of course, Copenhagen – which has the most Michelin-starred restaurants in the Nordics – wasn’t left out. 
 
Noma, which for four of the past five years has laid claim to the title of the world’s best restaurant, was once again granted two stars, as were Geranium and a|o|c. Twelve Copenhagen restaurants were given one Michelin star. 
 
An additional twelve restaurants in Copenhagen and two in Aarhus were given Michelin’s ‘Bib Gourmand’ distinction, which goes to restaurants that offer “exceptionally good food at moderate prices”. 
 
The new Michelin Nordic Cities guide marks the first time that the famed guide has included cities from outside of the Nordic capitals. Next door in Sweden, three restaurants in Malmö where given a Michelin star, including Bloom in the Park. The restaurant's head chef, Titti Qvarnström, spoke to The Local Sweden about being the first female chef to claim a Michelin
 
The full list of Danish Michelin stars is as follows:
 
Two stars:
Noma, Copenhagen
Geranium, Copenhagen
a|o|c, Copenhagen (first-time winner)
 
One star (Copenhagen):
Clou
Den Røde Cottage
Era Ora
formel B
Grønbech & Churchill
Kadeau
Kiin Kiin
Kokkeriet
Marchal
Relæ
Søllerød Kro
Studio at the Standard
 
One star (Aarhus)
Frederikshøj (first-time winner)
Gastromé (first-time winner)
Substans (first-time winner)
 
Bib Gourmand (Copenhagen)
L’Altro
Bror
Enomania
Famo
Frederiks Have
Kødbyens Fiskebar
Marv & Ben
Mêlée
Pluto
Rebel
 
Bib Gourmand (Aarhus)
Hærværk
Pondus 

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RESTAURANTS

Michelin unveils Covid-era France picks despite criticism

The Michelin Guide reveals Monday its annual pick of France's top restaurants despite criticism over its decision to hold the awards while establishments remain closed in the Covid-19 pandemic.

Michelin unveils Covid-era France picks despite criticism
Auberge du Pont de Collonges. Photo: AFP

Three-star chefs can rest easy, however, after Michelin said none will be demoted as the health crisis rages.

The industry bible's boss Gwendal Poullennec defended inspections that led to 57 new stars overall, even though restaurants remain shuttered after lockdowns imposed last spring and again since October.

“It's an important decision to support the industry, despite the current situation and perhaps even because of the situation,” Poullennec told AFP.

“All the establishments that have kept their star this year or won one are restaurants that fully deserve it,” he said.

READ MORE: Michelin calls off its 2021 France ceremony, but insists there will still be a guide

Michelin has drawn fire for bestowing its verdicts as chefs rack up losses while adapting their menus for takeaway or deliveries — and food fans have little chance of booking tables anytime soon, with or without face masks.

The rival Best 50 list, based in Britain, cancelled its 2020 ranking last year, while France's La Liste said this month that instead of rankings it would honour innovative chefs who have persevered amid the pandemic.

Michelin called off the lavish gala ceremony that was to be held in Cognac, southwest France – the first time outside Paris – and instead will announce the 2021 winners in a YouTube broadcast from the Eiffel Tower.

'Consistent quality'

But Poullennec said all three-star restaurants will keep their stars – France including Monaco counts 29 – while the handful of demotions will affect only restaurants that have closed or changed their dining concept.

He insisted that inspectors worked double duty and even cancelled their sacrosanct summer holidays to eat and drink as much as possible when restaurants were allowed to open under strict virus restrictions between France's lockdowns.

Michelin also brought in inspectors from elsewhere in Europe and even Asia to back up the French team.

“This selection has been made with the same serious attention, and inspectors were able to judge as many meals as the previous year,” he said.

“Despite the difficulties, chefs have risen to the occasion and maintained consistent quality, at times even succeeding in making further progress,” he added.

Poullennec, who took over the guide in 2018, has overseen several choices that have raised eyebrows among chefs and foodies alike.

Last year Michelin shocked industry insiders by downgrading the Auberge du Pont de Collonges — the oldest three-starred restaurant in the world — after the death of its legendary chef Paul Bocuse.

And in January 2019, Marc Veyrat became the first chef to sue the famous red guidebook after it withdrew the third star for his French Alps restaurant La Maison des Bois just a year after it was awarded.

Veyrat, who lost his case, has said he never wants to see a Michelin inspector in any of his restaurants ever again.

 

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